yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
....
Better yet, go look on his website before you bother him. He covers most of it there.
1 3/4" headers
- Thread starter Foomaster
- Start date
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Better yet, go look on his website before you bother him. He covers most of it there.
Lol!! Well, no, Intake/exhaust balance & overscavenging aren't BS. How it applies to Your own....
combo and how the Eddy's actually flow OOTB play a role on top of the cam profile & LSA.
As far as "break-in with something expendable", they don't want You to fire-up Your fresh
build, & have the timing 10 degrees behind, too much fuel and turn them a pretty shade of
orange. I've seen it, lol, one time I watched the fire-up of a 302 in a 'stang built by another
guy...turned out to be a solid runner, but the billet dizzy wouldn't turn as soon as things
got warm a bit.......I could almost see thru those things before he got something that'd turn
the timing up!! Once they cooled the Jet-Hot turned silver again....but lol, tis why I pre-time
every time.
Sorry for the BS flag just a reaction I used to correct my silly phone and me adding replies to the forum that I didn't want. So Since I could not figure out how to delete the reply , I put the BS flag up not realizing who might took offense. I have no mechanical skills at all since reason I started this post. Again sorry.
I ran my TTI"s 340 step headers right out of the box when I first fired my 416. Now I'm running a solid roller so break in wasn't that critical for me. They look good and no discoloring.
LOL, that's kinda funny......no problemo Dude, but You might(if You've got the time) read the info YR was referencing anyway..
. Anyway, the TTI's fit very well & are aquality product, You may make some more power w/another, but either way Jet hot is the way to go coating wise.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
LOL, that's kinda funny......no problemo Dude, but You might(if You've got the time) read the info YR was referencing anyway..
quality product, You may make some more power w/another, but either way Jet hot is the way to go coating wise.
Every one should read what Calvin writes. He is one of those guys when he's talking I'm shut up and writing as fast as my sausage looking fingers will write.
LMFAO!
Foomaster, he is actually correct and he actually made it a simple read without details.
But! Since we average guys have to deal with what is available on the shelf in a box awaiting us.... we live with it. And that was my general idea of my post.
However! I did fail to mention learning to weld and doing it yourself. Of course, anybody here that has ever made anheader knows that even if they do it right, they all say it was a terrible pain in the *** and would most likely never do it again.
That's a mighty generous size header pipe tube.
And the size of the step header is?
Yup! I guess that's why that "Street Outlaws" ElCamino has pipes straight out the fender! LMAO!!!
When I was learning a bit of header building, my mentor would flip out on every bend. It was like his head was ready to POP! Off of his shoulders.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I have built a few sets of headers since about 1985. If I had to do it again, I'd lose over 24 years of sobriety. There is no way I'd do it again, even though I have a TIG in my shop.
There is just too much too it. Plus I'm down to one set of W-2 heads. I can't shrink the exhaust port but if I use a 50 or maybe a 55 degree seat I may be able to use a 1.500 exhaust valve. That would make me squeal like a little girl.
roccodart440
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I think most guys are looking for a decent looking, decent fitting header that makes decent power. If you are going for an all out build, then you need to squeeze from everywhere you can. For most guys you want a rounded out package that gets the job done.
Unconventional
Well-Known Member
215 CI all aluminum Olds V8 in 66 Datsun truck, Saginaw 4 speed. Built a set of Tri Y headers, not a MIG welder or tubing notcher to be found. We weren't even out of our teens yet. We did have a header flange kit for the motor, from there it was numerous 90* and 180* bends from JC Whitney, a torch, double handful of welding rod. Body lift kit before they were all the rage. Built the new firewall out of fiberglass. We had waaaayyy too much fun building that truck. Didn't weigh nuthin, stop light to stop light it was a kick in the ***, out in the desert it didn't do badly either. But the things we learned in the process. 
Ahhhhhh, your showing your age!215 CI all aluminum Olds V8 in 66 Datsun truck, Saginaw 4 speed. Built a set of Tri Y headers, not a MIG welder or tubing notcher to be found. We weren't even out of our teens yet. We did have a header flange kit for the motor, from there it was numerous 90* and 180* bends from JC Whitney, a torch, double handful of welding rod. Body lift kit before they were all the rage. Built the new firewall out of fiberglass. We had waaaayyy too much fun building that truck. Didn't weigh nuthin, stop light to stop light it was a kick in the ***, out in the desert it didn't do badly either. But the things we learned in the process.
Unconventional
Well-Known Member
No worries there laddie. Did what we could with what we had, and had fun doing it. We did take the chassis to friend's body shop (where the MIG welder resided) to get the motor mounts welded together after I had them tacked together. The shop owner liked the project so much he said "Bring those pieces for the lift kit over, I'll weld them on while I'm at it." $25 I think the bill came to. That little Olds did run, weighed the same as the pathetic little 1300cc 4 banger that came in it. My Honda motorcicle has more HP than that 1300 did 
. Those headers were a gas to build. We built a funny looking clamp/jig/vice that could position them pretty much anywhere we wanted to weld them up solid. 18" glass packs, turn outs in front of the drive tires, TALL (29") Armstrong Norsemans, Chebby truck wheels (same bolt circle). 4.56s in that little rearend stock, that 1300 needed all the help it could get. Too much fun.
. Those headers were a gas to build. We built a funny looking clamp/jig/vice that could position them pretty much anywhere we wanted to weld them up solid. 18" glass packs, turn outs in front of the drive tires, TALL (29") Armstrong Norsemans, Chebby truck wheels (same bolt circle). 4.56s in that little rearend stock, that 1300 needed all the help it could get. Too much fun.
Ahhhh, the good old days!No worries there laddie. Did what we could with what we had, and had fun doing it. We did take the chassis to friend's body shop (where the MIG welder resided) to get the motor mounts welded together after I had them tacked together. The shop owner liked the project so much he said "Bring those pieces for the lift kit over, I'll weld them on while I'm at it." $25 I think the bill came to. That little Olds did run, weighed the same as the pathetic little 1300cc 4 banger that came in it. My Honda motorcicle has more HP than that 1300 did
You might notice a bit of difference from the D453, dougs, tti step, tti 1 7/8, or 5204 hookers. Not enough to justify the cost of one over another. I hate the hooker comp headers and their cheapo copies out there.
That engine MIGHT make 475, headers are NOT going to be the choke point
JMO, after seeing so many different SB Stroker combos in the same range and header changes.
I'd buy D453's from autozone with a 20% off code and go with it. Save some money over the alternatives.
That engine MIGHT make 475, headers are NOT going to be the choke point
JMO, after seeing so many different SB Stroker combos in the same range and header changes.
I'd buy D453's from autozone with a 20% off code and go with it. Save some money over the alternatives.
famous bob
mopar misfit
If u don`t believe him, find an older bill Jenkins performance catalogue on his sbc race engines. The first 6-10 " has a drastic effect on h.p. . He`s right and u are wrong !....
You must have skimmed Bro, Foomaster posted the BS flag in error,lol,...........see post #28.......
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