Another problem has come to light,after launch and the front end raises it settles too fast and shifts weight back and fourth like a pogo stick,Sometimes it minor and sometimes its extreme, is it the P.O.S. comp. eng shocks?????????? steve
1/4 mile car front end alignment
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This is my logic, and i know NOTHING! About it so please correct my errors. this is Steve weight.
Rear
L 822.......R 668
OK, I would thing that you would want more weight on the L front then right?? Eng trying to pull the L front off the ground and (with equal and opposite motion applying ) is trying to plant the R front tire.
On the rear..... i can play with two theories.
#1 the eng pulls up the L front fender so it is compressing the R rear quarter panel so there should be more pressure (spring pressure) to hold it????
#2 The eng is pulling on the front body/tire BUT, the Drive Shaft is planting the L rear tire.........Hmmmm which would still require more weight/spring pressure on R rear wheel...... right?? :dontknow:
Help me wrap my mind around this, as i may be going down this road as well.
front
L 761.......R 804
Rear
L 822.......R 668
OK, I would thing that you would want more weight on the L front then right?? Eng trying to pull the L front off the ground and (with equal and opposite motion applying ) is trying to plant the R front tire.
On the rear..... i can play with two theories.
#1 the eng pulls up the L front fender so it is compressing the R rear quarter panel so there should be more pressure (spring pressure) to hold it????
#2 The eng is pulling on the front body/tire BUT, the Drive Shaft is planting the L rear tire.........Hmmmm which would still require more weight/spring pressure on R rear wheel...... right?? :dontknow:
Help me wrap my mind around this, as i may be going down this road as well.
Cuda -it can be a real head scratcher lol we are thankful the goes straight as a arrow now only need to deal with the pogo stick effect now -I'll find me corner weights we settled that corrected the problem -steve
Thanks, Steve.
I'm sure every car sets up a little different. just looking for the basic theory on it all.
Like, some one ask if it was a 4 link, bar or leaf spring car........Does the basic theory change on the suspension you have. OR just the adj ability, and were you adj?
I'm sure every car sets up a little different. just looking for the basic theory on it all.
Like, some one ask if it was a 4 link, bar or leaf spring car........Does the basic theory change on the suspension you have. OR just the adj ability, and were you adj?
moe7404
moe7404
chrysler had 2 or 3 great books on building a race car. and a lot if info on front suspension set up. IMO that info will be the best ANYWHERE.
Care to share the name of the books?
If your talking about the the MPP Engine and Chassis books then i have them.......well i need to up date my chassis book!!! It talks about the currant Pro Stock suspension of Bob Gliddens Arrow :book:
If your talking about the the MPP Engine and Chassis books then i have them.......well i need to up date my chassis book!!! It talks about the currant Pro Stock suspension of Bob Gliddens Arrow :book:
I would suggest double adjustable (rebound / compression) shocks on the front (shock ) AND rear (coil-over shock)
on the front dial max compression / minimum rebound dampning.... that will help hold the nose up on acceleration. However, if you are pulling the wheels high enough off the ground, you may need to soften the compression slightly so it isn't bouncing the nose when coming down because the compression is too stiff.....either way the minimum rebound will assist the nose rise and weight transfer.
on the rear dial max rebound / minimum compression....that will allow the rear easily suck down (transfer weight to the rear) and hold it there instead of quickly rebounding....like a pogo stick.
the spring / torsion bar ONLY hold the car up...it is the shock that does the (tuning) work. A simple illustration is remove the shocks and push down on the car....if your springs are not as stiff as a wedding pecker, it will bounce....like a pogo stick. The shock controls the dampning. The beauty of a double adjustable shock is , you can control the AMOUNT of damping , compression and rebound individually , to best suits your needs.
I would be curious to Tonys.... and the other 1/4 mile pounders take on my thinking...
good luck!
on the front dial max compression / minimum rebound dampning.... that will help hold the nose up on acceleration. However, if you are pulling the wheels high enough off the ground, you may need to soften the compression slightly so it isn't bouncing the nose when coming down because the compression is too stiff.....either way the minimum rebound will assist the nose rise and weight transfer.
on the rear dial max rebound / minimum compression....that will allow the rear easily suck down (transfer weight to the rear) and hold it there instead of quickly rebounding....like a pogo stick.
the spring / torsion bar ONLY hold the car up...it is the shock that does the (tuning) work. A simple illustration is remove the shocks and push down on the car....if your springs are not as stiff as a wedding pecker, it will bounce....like a pogo stick. The shock controls the dampning. The beauty of a double adjustable shock is , you can control the AMOUNT of damping , compression and rebound individually , to best suits your needs.
I would be curious to Tonys.... and the other 1/4 mile pounders take on my thinking...
good luck!
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