66durgederp
"pull hard, itll come easy"
Has anyone else out there converted their factory unit to a 1 wire? If so, what regulator was used, and what circuit type, A (ground regulated field) or B? (power regulated field)
1 wire alternators
- Thread starter 66durgederp
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Any one--wire alternator pretty much has to have the regulator internal, or at least a very small one bolted directly to the alternator. In the case of (for example) the older GM 12SI and similar, the only difference in the 3 and 1 wire setups is in fact the regulator, so you can convert any integral regulator GM by simply buying the proper regulator
But here's the thing. I see NO advantage at all to a "one wire."
A "one wire" complicates NHRA mandated trunk mount battery switching, where as with an external type or 3 wire, you can simply break the field circuit along with the battery
A "one wire" senses charging voltage AT THE ALTERNATOR instead of at the battery. This means if the charging wire is a little long and a little undersized (such as a factory Mopar wiring harness) the battery may very well be a little undercharged because of voltage drop in the charging harness.
Many "one wire" setups like the power masters use regulators which the average parts store is unlikely to carry, meaning, if you are on the road, etc, and one fails, you'll either have to carry a spare, or "hope you make it," on the battery
So my question to you is, "why?" And what are you working on? What is wrong with your setup now that you need to improve it?
The other uncool factoid about a "one wire" is something no one ever talks about. Let's say you were silly enough to run the battery dead, or pretty much so. Many people believe that alternators will not "self excite" but this is not so in the majority of cases, and I've DONE it.
If you have a stick, much of the time you can push start a car with a dead battery and get it running. It'll probably take about 4 guys to move it far enough and fast enough, but I've seen it done.
Of course if you have a Torqueflite new enough that it has no rear pump, this won't work
But here's the thing. I see NO advantage at all to a "one wire."
A "one wire" complicates NHRA mandated trunk mount battery switching, where as with an external type or 3 wire, you can simply break the field circuit along with the battery
A "one wire" senses charging voltage AT THE ALTERNATOR instead of at the battery. This means if the charging wire is a little long and a little undersized (such as a factory Mopar wiring harness) the battery may very well be a little undercharged because of voltage drop in the charging harness.
Many "one wire" setups like the power masters use regulators which the average parts store is unlikely to carry, meaning, if you are on the road, etc, and one fails, you'll either have to carry a spare, or "hope you make it," on the battery
So my question to you is, "why?" And what are you working on? What is wrong with your setup now that you need to improve it?
The other uncool factoid about a "one wire" is something no one ever talks about. Let's say you were silly enough to run the battery dead, or pretty much so. Many people believe that alternators will not "self excite" but this is not so in the majority of cases, and I've DONE it.
If you have a stick, much of the time you can push start a car with a dead battery and get it running. It'll probably take about 4 guys to move it far enough and fast enough, but I've seen it done.
Of course if you have a Torqueflite new enough that it has no rear pump, this won't work
66durgederp
"pull hard, itll come easy"
67, Im curious as to what others have possibly done or experiences, like yours, and in my case theres nothing wrong with it as of now. I was just curious.
Simple to install,but not great.Basically,a marine design,you have to spin it,1500,2000 rpm to "excite" it enough to charge Not really,worth the swap,unless EFI,or major sound system.....t
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I see even less advantage then. As I said, a remote sensing setup gives you far more accurate battery voltage when set up, and the heavier the loads are on the system, the worse a one-wire is for this. Needing/ having a larger amperage alternator changes nothing about the regulator or wiring.
I used to run the big frame (120A?) Chrysler alternator on my old Landcruiser, with two batteries and a winch, and used the very same old 70/ later Mopar regulator. I used no6 charging wire and a 100A SW ammeter. It would peg that ammeter when using the winch, and never hurt a thing. In fact, that same old regulator still works, although it looks "like hell." It went on that Landcruiser in 1975, and I recently pretty much junked the old girl out.
I fully understand that LOTS of people use 'em but I just find no advantage to them.
Kirby038
Member
i was also looking at going opne wire just to clean up the engine bay. i really dont like all the wires. was also going to switch to a MSD ready to run dizzy. i was told all you have todo it run the alt with a big gauge wire to the positive side of the batt and thats it. if you want put a batt gauge in place of the amp gauge.
There is NO advantage to a one wire alternator. It's a smoke and mirrors thing done by schmucks. The low speed ability to maintain your battery is extremely diminished. Notice I said maintain. It's not the job of the alternator to charge your battery, it's job is to maintain it and operate your vehicle systems.
In my job I build a lot of "lawn art" and one of the hardest things to do is give the customer a charging system that will keep up with the 500 amp stereo, air bag pump, a/c blower, dual electric fans, fuel pumps, engine management systems, et al, while they cruise around the fairgrounds in 110 degree heat at 5mph. I currently am using GM CS series generators with their diode packs intact. I am also playing with some Denso alternators on my own projects for my own twisted purposes.
I guess my point is that you can "clean up" your wiring, but don't shoot yourself in the foot doing it.
In my job I build a lot of "lawn art" and one of the hardest things to do is give the customer a charging system that will keep up with the 500 amp stereo, air bag pump, a/c blower, dual electric fans, fuel pumps, engine management systems, et al, while they cruise around the fairgrounds in 110 degree heat at 5mph. I currently am using GM CS series generators with their diode packs intact. I am also playing with some Denso alternators on my own projects for my own twisted purposes.
I guess my point is that you can "clean up" your wiring, but don't shoot yourself in the foot doing it.
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