1 wire internal or external oem alternator

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72blunblu,

You make a good point on amperage demands vs alternator capability. With my Duster I run mechanical fan, mechanical fuel pump, no AC, no radio, and a points distributor (after frying a Pertronix module while trouble shooting wiring with the key on). So my electrical demand is minimal. The reason I went to points after frying a Pertronix was simply the fact I fried the Pertronix. Yes Pertronix makes newer units that are fry protected unlike what was on the car, and yes I now know I should have disconnected that module. But I can’t fix that on the side of the road to get home and point can be fixed and are cheap to stock in glovebox if I ever do it lol.

But anyway, I forget some have fallen in love with electronically controlled cars and accessories. I am going backwards because it’s too complex in many ways, especially a road side repair.

I run a pertronix because you can’t get condensers that are worth a **** anymore. I’ve daily driven cars that are all mechanical, my current set up is more reliable than any of them ever were.

I daily drove a ‘56 Austin Healey 100 for years. Dual point distributor. Ran fine for a long time, then a condenser went bad. And over the next several months, I went through a literal CASE of new condensers. They’d fail when they got hot due to lousy internal insulation. Cold they’d all test fine. It got to the point that I could change the condenser, burnish the points and re gap everything on the side of the freeway in LA with cars whizzing by at 90 mph before the freeway patrol could find me to tow me. Then one day I found a decent condenser again and like magic it was ok. But carrying the spare parts wasn’t a guarantee, sure you could change them, but they’d all test fine cold and **** the bed when they heat soaked.

I run pertronix units on several of my cars and have for years without issues. I may have just fried my first one in like a decade of using several. You can carry an extra pertronix unit in your glovebox too, and they’re easier to change out. Plus, there’s only one part to fail. With points, you have the points, the condenser, and the ballast that can all fail. And they do, and the replacement ones you buy now fail more frequently than the old stuff ever did.

How often are you guys replacing your alternators? I'd rather go with one that actually works better. Denso hands down.

The only alternators I’ve replaced on ANY car I’ve ever had were OE Mopar alternators. Although to be fair most were replaced because of their abysmal performance, not actual failures. But if the headlights won’t stay on at idle because the windshield wipers and heater are going that’s not a daily driver.

That does not include the generator I had to replace on my Healey when the rear bushing died, but that was an open bushing that required periodic lubrication, so different technology there.
 
I run a pertronix because you can’t get condensers that are worth a **** anymore. I’ve daily driven cars that are all mechanical, my current set up is more reliable than any of them ever were.

I daily drove a ‘56 Austin Healey 100 for years. Dual point distributor. Ran fine for a long time, then a condenser went bad. And over the next several months, I went through a literal CASE of new condensers. They’d fail when they got hot due to lousy internal insulation. Cold they’d all test fine. It got to the point that I could change the condenser, burnish the points and re gap everything on the side of the freeway in LA with cars whizzing by at 90 mph before the freeway patrol could find me to tow me. Then one day I found a decent condenser again and like magic it was ok. But carrying the spare parts wasn’t a guarantee, sure you could change them, but they’d all test fine cold and **** the bed when they heat soaked.

I run pertronix units on several of my cars and have for years without issues. I may have just fried my first one in like a decade of using several. You can carry an extra pertronix unit in your glovebox too, and they’re easier to change out. Plus, there’s only one part to fail. With points, you have the points, the condenser, and the ballast that can all fail. And they do, and the replacement ones you buy now fail more frequently than the old stuff ever did.



The only alternators I’ve replaced on ANY car I’ve ever had were OE Mopar alternators. Although to be fair most were replaced because of their abysmal performance, not actual failures. But if the headlights won’t stay on at idle because the windshield wipers and heater are going that’s not a daily driver.

That does not include the generator I had to replace on my Healey when the rear bushing died, but that was an open bushing that required periodic lubrication, so different technology there.

I guess I will add I have seen condenser failures on my tractors more frequently but I also have a pile of NOS condensers that I grab up at auctions yard sales etc in tune up kits of all kinds and they generally all jam into a distributor lol.

Another thing you mentioned was headlights dimming etc, and I forgot probably the best upgrade I did to my Duster in that department. I installed Quadratec LED headlights in place of factory. Required no modifications to anything and ability to see is huge without doing a relay setup. Plus it reduced overall load on electrical system. Yes these Quadratec headlights were intended for a Jeep such as the TJ that I bought them for originally. When I bought the Duster I decided to sell the Jeep and before I did pulled the LED headlights and realized the sealed beams on the Duster were full of water. The obvious answer always presents itself lol.
 
How often are you guys replacing your alternators
I replaced 2 alternators between 4 cars in 18 years.

67 dart with run of the mill parts store (Kragen) rebuilt from 1990 (28 years)

And 96 Jeep Grand cherokee, replaced the OEM alt 5 years ago. (23 years)
 
I am curious about what everyone’s opinion is about converting to a 1 wire internally regulated alternator
No advantage, plenty disadvantage—chief among which is if the regulator fails, you don't get to just replace it in five minutes wherever you happen to be with the spare you grabbed out the trunk (or bought wherever). No, you're stuck until you replace the alternator.

There are worthy alternator upgrades over the not-very-efficient '60-'87 Chrysler items. No need to waste money, time, or brainpower on exotic ones; just fetch a stock alternator for an '89 D-150 pickup with 5.2 or 5.9 engine. This one if you want 90 amp, or this one if you want 120 amp. They both come with a suitable 2-groove V-belt pulley. Minor bracket modifications will accommodate it, and it won't even look all that different to original, just smaller.

Regulator: Mopar-type external; this heavy-duty adjustable one.

Much more important are the necessary upgrades to the charging system wiring. See here.
 
For the individual who thinks Denso alternators fail anywhere near as much as the stock style alternator, they don’t. If you WANT a numbers matching look that is failure prone stick with the internal. Maybe, when you pop your hood you go into a love fest for 1970’s technology, idk. There can be no argument made that the Denso units fail at the same rate.
The point is …… the Denso style WON’T leave you on the side of the road calling every parts store in a 50 mile radius trying to find a failure probe replacement OE alternator.
 
My Denso alternator came from the junkyard in late 90's early 2000's. I didn't put it on until 2011. Still working today.

I think the pulley is a little too small or it's spaced to far away. It's lined up good. But it squeals on heavy acceleration. Poor little thing. All 37 amps of it.

I saw a Racemate alternator at the swap meet once. About Really wanted to run it. My buddy talked me out of it...talk about not being available in a pinch

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Surprising how strongly guys feel about alternators. Especially about oem style units. I'd never bother with one of those things unless it was a show car resto deal.
 
For the individual who thinks Denso alternators fail anywhere near as much as the stock style alternator, they don’t. If you WANT a numbers matching look that is failure prone stick with the internal. Maybe, when you pop your hood you go into a love fest for 1970’s technology, idk. There can be no argument made that the Denso units fail at the same rate.
The point is …… the Denso style WON’T leave you on the side of the road calling every parts store in a 50 mile radius trying to find a failure probe replacement OE alternator.
go-fish,
Have you any idea if the much mentioned 4Runner Denso alternator will fit on my 1961 170 cid Valiant, and would the out of the box single groove pulley be the correct size?
What Denso pn. should I be looking for?
Searching about my local Autozone seems always to have in stock a Duralast 60A pn. 14668 reman. or GOLD Duralast (new) avail. next day.
Thank you for your courteous assistance.
 
this is the denso. 210-0106 (Napa213-8283)

that will give you the correct pulley. its rral close to a stock size. yo'll have to make brackets for it to fit the slant if no one sells tem..
 
denso off a kubota digger/mini excavator is 40 amp and has correct V on the pulley

3 different plugs all of them take a 12 volt switched feed and have a combo of other connectors one of which will be battery sense the other may be idiot light or tacho or ECU control. check the labels

the easiest to use has 2 spade connectors in a T shaped plug 12v/ light or 12v/sense


your issue is always the mounting
small and big block block catered for
others no so much

the hitachi LT range (LT150-188 off an isuzu/ chevy is quite nice.
The LT is an external regulated P type alternator that works with the early mopar style regulator (12 volt and field) (i.e the regulator sits on the positive side of the field windings and the second field terminal is earthed to case.
needs a stand off mount to avoid hitting stuff on a I6 /6
LR type have an internal R egulator. your choice, 50= 50 amp)

depends what you can get for Little $$ they all do the same thing.
for me one of these cost little £36 brand new, and a mopar costs a lot. this looks like my original prestolite so it was worth my while for you it may not be

more than you will ever want to know about alternators

Here

The 12 Volt Doctor's Alternator Book


Dave
 
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denso stuff is nice ,need to make sure you have a large enough power and ground cables and connections
i think the biggest problem with any oe stuff is the builder ,if its remain most likey junk ,if new oe most likely junk
if you want good oe you need to find a rebuilder that uses good parts ,i have customers that i've put aftermarket starter in twice only to have to byu from the dealer
so not all parts are the same in the words of tommy boy the warrenty only gives the buyer a warm feeling ,not going to get you off the side of the road
 
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