10" high performance clutch?

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scottymizt

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i was wondering if any of you guys have one and if so where and how much ? I want to keep mine as original as possible so i dont want to change the flywheel and bell housing. I tried searchin but i couldnt find anything.
 
Centerforce has an upgrade over OE clutchs and pressure plates. No need to change bellhousings or funky add ons or extra springs.
Most manufactures have this.
 
If you have a 63-66 A Body you should have a 9 1/2" clutch. Other than stock rebuilds, high perf. clutches don't exist. McLeod was the last company
that I know of that made a hp clutch. 10" HP clutches are pretty easy to find
at Summit, Jegs, or Brewers Performance. toolmanmike
 
must be a 9.5 then, i know it didn't get the right one at first when i replaced it. All the sites list my car as having a 10.5" and the 6 cyls having a 10" which i figured they used the same clutch for my cuda. I have the 273 commando in my 65 cuda with the 833, i love it but with simple upgrades it wont hold the power and i got a ton of chatter(prolly a bad stocker). I plan to put a 100hp shot of nitrous on it and i know even a good stocker wont hold that much.
 
oh yea even the 10" i couldn't find a hp one for at summit and jegs but then i might not have been looking in the right places.
 
Just went through this for my 65 Valiant. My car is fairly high HP, would do it differently if you're running a mild 273. No one makes a high performance 9-1/2" or 10" borg & beck pressure plate (Mcleod used to). Luk makes one for cheap but my understanding is the quality is not there for HP applications, might be OK for a mild 273 or slant 6.

Got a billet 122 tooth flywheel from Wilcap. Had a nice original 9-1/2" pressure plate rebuilt by McLeod & bought their very last 9-1/4" 23-spline Rev-lok steet disc which is a mild sintered iron unit that has a marcel carrier. This should hold about 400 ft-lbs torque. McLeod is discontinuing most of their non-high-volume stuff & 9-1/2" mopar stuff will be a casualty. For a backup I also bought a 10" 23-spline Rev-lok disc from Mcleod. They still have a few of these left but when they're gone they will be discontinued as well. The 10" will not fit the 9-1/2" stock pressure plate however they did make a very heavy duty truck 10" borg & beck some time ago that will fit the 122 tooth flywheel (10-5/8" attachment bolt circle). By chance I found one of these on ebay new for $65 shipped but they don't seem to come up a lot. The 10" should hold a lot of torque, probobly 500 ft-lbs or more with the Rev-lok. You could also use a 10" diaphragm (used on Fords) but this clutch has a different bolt arrangement than the B&B so the flywheel would have to be drilled; also there may be clearance issues with the bell. The nice thing about the sintered iron discs is they don't require much force to operate. A buddy has a 700+ HP roadracer with 3 tiny sintered iron discs (Tilton) & the clutch action is lighter than a Suburu with great modulation.

There are pluses & minuses doing it this way. As far as weight the 122 tooth flywheels & clutches are way lighter than the 130 tooth setup. The original iron bellhousing is about 12 lbs heaier than the later aluminum setup but is probably stronger. As far as cost it actually would have been pricier for me to switch to the 10.5 aluminum setup since I would have to buy all the parts & would have had to go hydraulic clutch. You would have to relocate a pipe from the Doug's headers which I'm using if you wanted to use any type of mechanical linkage.

My advice for a mild application would be to get your original clutch rebuilt by a good outfit. Original high quality 9-1/2" pressure plates are an endangered species.
 
Guess you aren't worried about your feet?

Not really, this is a street car w/ 8" tires that will never see past 6k RPM. If I were racing would do something quite different. The point was to use the original bell. BTW, an original 273 with a 100HP NOS shot probably won't live long, I'd pass on that.
 
Back in the late 70s a friend built a turbo 225 and, of course, blew the stock Auburn style clutch to smitherines. He found an outfit in Indiana called Hall Brake who used a Borg and Beck 1576 10" pressure plate and beefed it up. They also found a 23 spline 1" hub with an even number of springs and mounted ceramic paddles to it. We found a steel bell housing at the wrecking yard and modified it to work on the /6. The setup worked well for several years. Slightly more pedal pressure was required but nothing extreme. Is anyone familiar with someone who still modifies clutches in this manner?
 
it's not original but close to it, thanks for all the info. I plan to call a few shops to seeif they can beef up my stocker or build another. How high is thesafe rev limit for the 273 commando? i rev mine all day long to 6-6500 rpm runs like a champ.
 
I plan to call a few shops to see if they can beef up my stocker or build another. How high is thesafe rev limit for the 273 commando? i rev mine all day long to 6-6500 rpm runs like a champ.

McLeod will rebuild an original pressure plate for around $75 with a few caveats. It has to be an original USA-type in good condition. They will not rebuild the later aftermarket types made in Mexico & overseas as they are in their words "cheap junk". Only problem I see with this is finding a decent disc. The organic ones I've seen don't seem very substantial. The Rev-lok mentioned looks really stout but not sure how a stock flywheel would fare against it. McLeod will cut down a 10" Rev-lok to a smaller size if you want to pay.

Don't see any problem running a 273 a bit over 6k providing your valve springs are good enough. Oiling would be only big concern, the stock unbaffled pan is really pathetic. Properly built you could run it to 8k but you would need to change lots for that.
 
thanks sig, i usually take it to about 5500 or 6k i will prolly look into changing the bell housing even tho i dont want to. Seems the only way to get something that will hold even after i make more mods to the engine later.
 
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