10 sec small block

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mopar426

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how hard would it be to get a 360 to run 10 in the 1/4 thats still a street car any suggestions would be appreciated

thanks
 
Not hard at all!

Put car on a serious diet and throw money at engine builder!!!

Seriousley, theres a few members here that run that quick.

(HEY TIM! Where are ya!)

Part of this is, is this a track car or a street strip car? Does it matter? LOL It's a question of which way your leaning towards on the car. What your willing to give up or not, live with or not.
 
thanks for the feed back i dont want to turbo it but i was thinkin about the indy heads and some n2o but not sure i want it to be more of a street car cause ill be driven it (alot)
 
Rumblefish hit it on the head feed your engine builder $$$$ i am almost done with my build 408 w2 should see easy 10`s i paid my engine builder $13,000 so far but he did do other work ouch my pockets are sore This is definately my last build ,famous last words the $13,000 was with me supplying all parts.
 
If you don’t mind spraying it, you could build a fairly mild combo that could really lay it down when you’re on the bottle.

My old combo was a solid bottom end with OOTB Eddy heads, 292/509 purple shaft cam, Air-gap with 750 proform dp, 4.10 gears…it ran 11.1 (on the bottle) in Colorado…that would be easy high 10’s at lower altitude. This was driven 25 miles to and from the track, and all over town.

If you want more umph, my new engine that I’m assembling right now would be an even better combo. It should be street-able as well, with a little over 500 hp.

360 block, Eagle 4 inch steel crank (410 ci), Scat I-beams, Diamond pistons, Total seal rings, 10.8:1 compression,
ARP main/head studs, Edelbrock heads with stage 2 port from RyanJ @ Shady Dell (flow 293 @ 0.600),
Comp Pro Magnum Rockers, Comp solid roller XR286R 248/254 @ 0.05 and 0.576/0.582 lift,
Air-Gap, Proform 750 dp, Headman 1 ¾ primary headers, 727 w/ PTC 8 in converter,
4.10 gears, Moser 35 spline axels, spool, Hoosier 28x 11.5 QTP, 3250 lbs with driver.

This should run low 11’s or high 10’s…but with a victor intake and a 950 carb, 10’s should be no problem.
 
thanks for the good advice flyfish is there any specific compression ratio i should look for if im sprayin
 
flyfish said:
If you don’t mind spraying it, you could build a fairly mild combo that could really lay it down when you’re on the bottle.

My old combo was a solid bottom end with OOTB Eddy heads, 292/509 purple shaft cam, Air-gap with 750 proform dp, 4.10 gears…it ran 11.1 (on the bottle) in Colorado…that would be easy high 10’s at lower altitude. This was driven 25 miles to and from the track, and all over town.

If you want more umph, my new engine that I’m assembling right now would be an even better combo. It should be street-able as well, with a little over 500 hp.

360 block, Eagle 4 inch steel crank (410 ci), Scat I-beams, Diamond pistons, Total seal rings, 10.8:1 compression,
ARP main/head studs, Edelbrock heads with stage 2 port from RyanJ @ Shady Dell (flow 293 @ 0.600),
Comp Pro Magnum Rockers, Comp solid roller XR286R 248/254 @ 0.05 and 0.576/0.582 lift,
Air-Gap, Proform 750 dp, Headman 1 ¾ primary headers, 727 w/ PTC 8 in converter,
4.10 gears, Moser 35 spline axels, spool, Hoosier 28x 11.5 QTP, 3250 lbs with driver.

This should run low 11’s or high 10’s…but with a victor intake and a 950 carb, 10’s should be no problem.
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Yea what he said... but if you start witha 340 block you could get a few more cubes to help out :thumrigh: And Caltracs rear suspension set up could help out with the combo for cheap
 
Here's a real build that runs 10.50's at 3300 in a ladder bar Duster.

360, KB107's, stock rods, ported w2, 12:1, Isky solid cam 250/258 at .050 .545/.547, MP roller rockers, Victor manifold, 950hp, spacer, MSD dist & digital 6, tti headers. Made right at 540hp.

Got run to 7500 on occasion, with 1.40 flat 60's

Engine was updated with a different cam and some other work. Now makes in the 580hp area. It's currently for sale at $4500.
 
mopar426 said:
should i spray a 200 shot
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I would start small (100-150), make sure everything is looking good (no sign of detonation on the plugs) and work my way up...BTW, you shouldn't need a 200 shot to get in the 10's.

As far as compression goes...go with what ever you want...You will need high octane fuel when the nitrous is on any which way you do it.
 
crackedback said:
Here's a real build that runs 10.50's at 3300 in a ladder bar Duster.

360, KB107's, stock rods, ported w2, 12:1, Isky solid cam 250/258 at .050 .545/.547, MP roller rockers, Victor manifold, 950hp, spacer, MSD dist & digital 6, tti headers. Made right at 540hp.

Got run to 7500 on occasion, with 1.40 flat 60's

Engine was updated with a different cam and some other work. Now makes in the 580hp area. It's currently for sale at $4500.
Click to expand...

was the 540hp at the wheels
 
mopar426 said:
how hard would it be to get a 360 to run 10 in the 1/4 thats still a street car any suggestions would be appreciated

thanks
Click to expand...


How much of a street car. Is your plan to build a daily driver that runs in the 10s? Is this your only car?

I don't know is why I'm asking. If this is your only car the first thing you need to buy if you want a driver that runs in the 10s is a second car.

I'm talking a little reliable import that will free up cash for your "Real Car".

As cool as a 10 second car can be, it's just not worth it as a daily driver. When you push a drive train to that point "routine maintenance" goes way up as stressed parts have a shorter life.
 
yes its my only car so even if i dont dog on it every day would it be smarter just to get another car
 
mopar426 said:
yes its my only car so even if i dont dog on it every day would it be smarter just to get another car
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Its your ONLY option. Well... you have 2 more but I will get to that in a sec.


Let me give you some advice son... I have been in this hobby for 25 years. The #1 thing you can do for any Old Muscle car (Im talking power, reliability, cosmetics, everything) is to get a DRIVER as a second car.


When you start talking about running in the 10s with a small block you are talking high compression, poor every day drivability, bad MPGs (lucky if you get 10 on the highway), and parts going bad. Lets not mention the need to at least have some race fuel in the mix if you want to hammer on it.

Hell... The valve springs on those big cams don't live long on the street... And I'm not talking 15,000 miles long, I'm talking you will be lucky to get 4,000 before your springs start to go away.

So.... Back to my point of why you need a daily driver.... All that money you spend on gas, parts, maintenance is DIRECTLY removed from the available funds for real improvements.

Oh.... And this... People really don't care if your car runs in the 10s. They really don't. 80% of the people won't even know how fast you are running if you tell them you are in the 10s with your street car.

More people will check out the car that looks great, sounds hot and runs 14s then the car that is a little ruff, noisy and runs 10s.

Honestly.... Its true.

Oh and this.... Chicks don't even care if your car runs in the 10s. They are just happy to be with the guy they like and in a RELIABLE car that will get them where they are going.

Damn.... I can't forget this... Chicks.... They like to go out, do things and have fun with their guy. THE LAST THING the want to hear all the time is that you need to work on the car or you don't have any money because of the car. TRUST me on this it is very important.

Ok, I told you, you had other options.... Here they are.

1. Build a very solid small block that runs on pump gas. Then shoot it with 250-hp NOS. (It should be reliable driver until it isn't. When a part fails on a full NOS pull it usually destroys everything.)

2. Build a massive low stressed big-block (over 500c.i.) and use the cubes.
 
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