10s for 10k can i do it?

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w2360Duster

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Ok im going to try and break into the 10s for under 10k with out the use of NO2. Heres what i have now and cost involved.

I bought a modified 73 Duster off craigslist for $2000 to find it had a spun bearing argh. Now what the car had was a healthy 71 .040 360 with a victor, 700 dp, ported 360 heads and a .509 with adj 273 type rocker arms.

Also a ProTrans low gear 904 with looks like 11" convertor a 4.10 8 3/4 with BB and 8" weld pro Stars in the rear and 3.5"s in the front.

So far i bought a Forged 4340 forged Eagle 4.0 Stroker kit thats including H beam rods, ross .040 pistons rings and bearings. $1675 delivered

Indy RhS 360X heads (bare) $660 delivered

Hedman 1 7/8" primary 3 1/2" col Hustler race headers off Ebay $210 delivered

Moroso 8 qt pan with pickup and new oil HV pump new/used $140

Milidon main studs and Felpro gasket kit and hi pressure oil pump spring around $170

The Block is being machined and balanced, i should be picking it up tommorow aprox. $475 with cam bearings and freeze plugs .

I think that adds up to $5330 , i know i can be expecting to spend a easy 2000 to $2500 on valve train and head work.

On the list also is going to be a 4500 convertor, a Holley 950 and?? im probably forgeting a few things. I do have some odds ans ends laying around that i can sell off the car to offset the cost but can it be done. Any ideas
 
It sure can be done. My dad has a 422 60 over 340 eagle 4 inch rotater, indybrock heads, m1 single plaine, with around a 4,000 stall converter Might have around $7000,00 in it and it runs high 10's
 
BigStrok3 said:
It sure can be done. My dad has a 422 60 over 340 eagle 4 inch rotater, indybrock heads, m1 single plaine, with around a 4,000 stall converter Might have around $7000,00 in it and it runs high 10's
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Im talking about the whole car everything!, not just the motor. And if it is the whole car tell me about.
 
You don,t mention anything about your rearend?Your adding alot more hp,do you have axels,adj. pinion snubber,3-way adj. shocks,d.shaft loop?What tires and rims?Also what gears?This will all factor in your price and goal to reach 10,s.There,s plenty of guys on here with 408,416,s that aren,t running 10,s with well over 10K.Good Luck with your goals!
 
pettybludart said:
You don,t mention anything about your rearend?Your adding alot more hp,do you have axels,adj. pinion snubber,3-way adj. shocks,d.shaft loop?What tires and rims?Also what gears?This will all factor in your price and goal to reach 10,s.There,s plenty of guys on here with 408,416,s that aren,t running 10,s with well over 10K.Good Luck with your goals!
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I do have a pinion snubber from another car, i also have a set of 3300lb SS springs from my former hot rod (in my avatar) that i will more than likley use but not with the snubber. I also have a 4.56 unit that can be substituted. The 73 car i picked up has Comp Eng drag shcks in front and rear.

I really dont believe i will have traction issues, The car in my avatar 60fted 1.46 on NO2 and im sure it was more hp and tq than the 410 will make.
 
Nope. Wrong heads IMO. They will ned a bit of work to reach your proposed goal. Plus a race convertor. Then you have the cage, fuel system, new belts, SFI dampner, SFI flexplate, aftermarket axles... The Ross pistons will fit loose in the bores... they are supposed to be fairly tight. Did you have the block sonic tested BTW? If not, do that before you do anything else. I think overall, you have anotehr $6-7K to spend unless you are really hooked up and doing it all yourself. Still by the way, dirt cheap for what you'll end up with.
 
Lighten the crap out of the car I mean strip it, i ran high 10s with a trw12.1 X-headed roller cammed 340 8in converter 5.13 ladder bar and 31x13 slicks and 830 alcohal carb. It can be be done if you put forth the effort to do it.
 
A fresh air system straight into the carb can be inexpensive and very effective. I also agree, lighten up the car. What is it....... every 100 lbs. less = 1/10 gain on E.T. I believe.
Daryl
 
440WIP said:
A fresh air system straight into the carb can be inexpensive and very effective. I also agree, lighten up the car. What is it....... every 100 lbs. less = 1/10 gain on E.T. I believe.
Daryl
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Yep until you get under 3000 lbs, then it gets better yet. Back in the 80's some mag did a test how weight effects et. They took a 1970 Cadillac like 5000 lbs and went from high 17's to low 13's just by removing weight. They took everything off, lol..doors, fenders, bumpers.
 
You forgot about the parts he's not using again.

The cam is nixed and I think the heads will do fine with the proper adjustments. Like what BJR is doing with them. A nice .600+ lift solid/roller/hyd roller cam.

Easy 500+ hp which will move the car into the 10's
 
yes you can do it . i had less in my entire car when i first ran it 3 years ago .

Of course that was with a lot of used parts , stock eddy rpm's , a P.O.S used TA converter

i built the whole car /engine / paint , except for the 727 .


it went 10.88 the 1st year i ran it , that combo was with a 8.75 / 4:10 , 493 ci / 28x11.5 ET streets , flat tappet 587/593 , pump gas / 10.8:1 / , junk TA 3800 converter , out of the box eddy rpm's , about 3400lbs w/ driver ,

not hard to do with a BB , A body 8) , just try and get "known good " used stuff to start with

i learned the hard way about putting a good converter in the car......
 
I still say nope. It's goign to be hard to get a street car down to a race weight of 3300 with a driver that's old enough to have a license. With a steel cage and 200lbs driver.. that's some weight loss on the car's part. And CM cage will throw the budget. I just dont think you can do it.
 
Im not to concerned about a roll bar as of yet, i figure get kicked of the trank then install it. I do have the rollbar that i cut out of my other Duster. This car already has 2 lightweight racing seats and no heater or wiper motor im sure i can get it to way 3100 lbs before the addition of the bar.

It aleady has a fuel system since i said the car was modified already when i purchased it. Yes i do need to kick for a good convertor and im not to concerned about aftermarket axles as i dont think they are required till i run the number.

I am planning i doing as much of this myself as possible, or enlist the help of friends . I will add some photos of what i have to work with a bit later. I truley believe it can be done, am i cutting corners YES, Will the car be legal well not untill it breaks a 11.48 and when it does that i hope it will surpass that by 5 or 6 tenths.
 
moper said:
Nope. Wrong heads IMO. They will ned a bit of work to reach your proposed goal. Plus a race convertor. Then you have the cage, fuel system, new belts, SFI dampner, SFI flexplate, aftermarket axles... The Ross pistons will fit loose in the bores... they are supposed to be fairly tight. Did you have the block sonic tested BTW? If not, do that before you do anything else. I think overall, you have anotehr $6-7K to spend unless you are really hooked up and doing it all yourself. Still by the way, dirt cheap for what you'll end up with.
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I agree with you on the 10k answer to this question, But this choice of heads in the right hands WILL be capable of making 600-700 HP depending on what other POISON you will be using in the build.

Bobby at BJR has my set of INDY/RHS X heads right now and without going too crazy the flows are pretty impressive for this casting even with a SMALL intake valve of 1.920, the flows are 293CFM @ .500 lift and over 300CFM at .600+. The exhaust was just cleaned up and flows over 204CFM + at .500 lift and above with a 1.60 exhaust valve.

Sorry to get off the subject a bit.......
 
Can be done.Big block it and build it light. Thats exactly what Im doing. As far as the cheapest big block build I'll vote for the 451 stroker,as theres lots of stock and off the shelf stuff that will work for it. The most important thing is to wait for the deals,and actually have the money when they show up. Buying good used components doesnt hurt either.

extensive use of fibreglass,losing things like the heater box,radio,wiper motor,window crank mechanisms,etc. The bumpers are real heavy on Darts,so going glass here just makes sence.

I just picked up a fibreglass front clip that includes the front bumper,valance,header,fenders and hood.I can pick the whole thing up myself.It cant weight more than 30 lb's. I probably just shaved better than 150lb's from the front end..
 
Complete car.. motor,trans, rearend,suspension safety equipment for $10k...NO WAY...........
 
stroked 340 said:
Complete car.. motor,trans, rearend,suspension safety equipment for $10k...NO WAY...........
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We all know some can't.

I'll have my Dart running in the 10's for less than 10K, EASY!

This poster has had cars that run really hard and knows how to make them work. Plus, the car already has a lot of equipment on it that's buried in the initial purchase cost that he doesn't need to re-buy.
 
Great score for $2K. But, missing a lot of what a 10 second car needs. With building an engine.. I still don't see it.
 
Let me say this, I spent well over $30K on my Duster to get in into the mid 10's but that includes 3 sets of heads plus porting, 6 camshafts, 3 torque converters and 5 sets of gears. Plus three attempts with the 4 speed before the 904 went in it. I seriously think you can duplicate my combo for $10K if you are capable of doing your own welding, cutting, fabricating and most of the machine work. PM me if you are interested.

Keep in mind I did this with a 340 and later with a 360 in an all steel Duster with only fiberglass bumpers and a hood. The car still had the stock fuel tank and spare tire in it. The interior was still intact and the windows were still all glass and functional. It even had a stock flat hood on it, no scoop or fresh air with a 4" K&N air filter on it.
 
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