11 second dart help

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twayne24365

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Hey guys, working on my 72 dart swinger, im going for atleast mid 11s, here is what i haveto work with.

I have a standard bore 1965 383 with stock heads cast number. 2463200, mopar .528 solid, and a street dominator intake topped with an 850dp...this motor went 12.55 in a 3500lb b body with 4200 stall and 4.56 gears.

I also have a standard bore 440 block
.30 over l2295 slugs
.10/.10 turned cast crank
Shotpeened ly rods
Full port 452 heads 2.14 1.81
Also have 2" fenderwell headers.
And a new .557 mp cam

The car is stock suspention 26x9 tire and 3.91 gears
Also is a 727 with reverse manual valvebody and i have a 3500 tci converter
Mid 11s possible using what i have?
 
Use the 440. Shouldn't be too much trouble getting there once everything is worked out. I'm curious if this is a track only build, or is street use also in the mix? If track only, the main upgrade I could see would be to go with a well built custom converter vs the TCI.
 
I plan on driving it around town a good bit, and hit the track on the weekends
 
In short, yes.

How heavy is the A body?

The .557 cam needs some compression to really work great.
What's the comp ratio in the 383 and can you cheaply bump it up if it is a low compression engine?
 
I should explain my thoughts on the converter. I have no problem with a somewhat inefficient TCI, B&M, or Jeg's style converter on a higher powered, mainly street car. It will still be fast enough to get you in a heap of trouble...:D

If you are more focused on track use, a modern designed, efficient, custom PTC, Dynamic, Ultimate, Turbo Action, etc, will make you much more consistent on the track and still be drivable on the street.
 
I would go with the 383 and put the ported 906 heads on. jmo
 
I feel that the 383 with the documented Mid 12's is gonna be very hard to use to get you where you want to go without some serious mods. The "A" at 300/400 lbs. less is good, but with less converter and less gear, I feel like it's a wash as far as the 12sec et's.
 
4.56 gear would work well with the 528 or 557 grind.
 
I went 12.5s @ 105 in a 71 swinger, Junkyard 360 magnum, 4.10 gears, PTC 2800 stall shifting at 5000. Thats how mild it was. Juiced it with a 125 shot & went 7.4s @ 96 in the 1/8, I had to back off the throttle a bit on that pass, That 383 should run 11s with no issues.

Now on my 75 Duster, Had a mild 451, stock 906 heads, FW headers, 9.73 compression, XE284H cam, M1 intake, 750dp, PTC 4400 stall, 4.10 gears, Ran a best of 10.91 @ 120.56 on a 1.51 60ft., I shifted that combo at 5600
 
A solid old-school approach would be the 440, MP .557, 4.56s combo but it may not be fun on the street. It's more of an entry bracket type build but depending on the wieght will get you there.
 
In short, yes.

How heavy is the A body?

The .557 cam needs some compression to really work great.
What's the comp ratio in the 383 and can you cheaply bump it up if it is a low compression engine?

im thinking it will be around 3200 with me in it, its pretty gutted.
 
oh and i figure the 383 to be about 9:1 with the close chamber heads.
i am leaning towards having the 440 block machined and using the stock bottom end with the l2295 pistons, and slaping in the 557 cam. i think that should get me there.
and as "oldmanrick" said maybe a little later down the road upgrading to a better converter.
 
440-3.91's....557 cam....,get some ss springs rear and better shocks,run a 28"tire...easily get you to your goal with ease...the 2295's may need to be milled down to run pump gas,will also need adj rocker arms and pushtubes...
 
A 3000 stall is plenty to get you into the 11s, depending on the weight and suspension set up. My car weighs 3000 lbs. with a 500 lift cam and edlebrock heads, 4.10 gears. Runs a good 11.60s.
 
a stock suspension will not get the car into the 11s with either combo.
 
I picked up the l2295s from my uncle, the domes have been radiused, they are new and never ran, i have ductile rockers, will need some pushrods though. as for the car i have 90/10 shocks for the front and plan on maybe som cheapie mopar shocks for the rear
 
I picked up the l2295s from my uncle, the domes have been radiused, they are new and never ran, i have ductile rockers, will need some pushrods though. as for the car i have 90/10 shocks for the front and plan on maybe som cheapie mopar shocks for the rear

You will have to get super stock springs on the rear, and get a set of adjustable shocks for the rear. It will make a big difference on how the car will come off the line.
 
Do you think the superstock springs or for a little more money a caltrack setup?
 
One or the other. I thin ka stock suspension would do it - but the 60 will be soft. Personally I'd just go SS leaf to get it going.
 
picks your parts pays your money. I learned a long time ago, it doesn't take much motor to ET, it takes a good chassis.
 
Here is how my car works coming off the line with superstock springs and 440 torsionbars
 

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First off nice lookin car!!! And i like that, i think when my money is right ill go with the ss springs
 
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