11 second intake

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SRT_DSTRHOLC

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So Im looking to get all that I can out of my car without going stroker. Im looking to possibly port my heads later also. I want to port the intake so that I get the most out of it. I currently have the Cross Wind intake.

My setup is 10.8 compression KB107 pistons
CompCam XS282s 244@50
Rhs Heads 260@ 500
3in Exhaust
4200 stall
4.10 gears
1.6 rockers
750 DP

Looking at mid to high 11s and still got more work to do. Engine work left is possibly port heads, port intake and TTI headers, Moroso electric water pump drive or a CSR
 
You should be pretty close as it is. If the heads are the ones prepped by Brian at IMM, then you shouldn't need to do anything to them to get into the 11's. I don't know...really close already. Maybe a little bigger cam and a bigger carb (if you plan on mostly racing it, keep the 750 if you're mostly using on the street).
 
You should be pretty close as it is. If the heads are the ones prepped by Brian at IMM, then you shouldn't need to do anything to them to get into the 11's. I don't know...really close already. Maybe a little bigger cam and a bigger carb (if you plan on mostly racing it, keep the 750 if you're mostly using on the street).

I think the setup is fine, I just want to maximize it. There are people in the 11 second section who have less of a setup running 11.7 and Im planing on getting my car to 3000-3200 pounds
 
I agree you should be close as is. You are certainly in single plane territory, but I don't think your current intake is holding you back too much. Try the tallest open hole spacer you can close the hood over. See if that helps.

What RPM are you going through the traps at?
 
the rings should be ok for a 100 shot. If they have a factory gap.

that car is your baby right? If so, there is no reason it can't be fed from a bottle. Lol

sorry old habbits die hard. I was a nitrous junky for about 10 years. Decided to step out of my comfort zone and go with a pair of whistles (read turbos)
 
on a side note how do you like the hood. I'm debating keeping the 75 front end or swapping to an earlier front. My car is just about a twin of yours. Same color and all. :)
 
RUN it first!! Then if it doesn't go 119-120mph..then change some stuff. JMO!
Brian
 
Hell I bet you caint count how many damn stock IRON thermoquad intakes have seen the 11s.
 
Torker II might work good, for power in the higher rpms. i had a close setup, same cam, 11.2 cr, you have me beat on head and gear i had home ported j's, and 3.91, and 1.5 rockers, about 3450 lbs with me in it, only ran it a few times with a 12.22, i'm sure with tuning it would have been 12 flat to 11.90's. I like the torker II ran it with a 4-hole 1/2 spacer and gasket matched.
 
If you havent run it, don't even worry about changes. You have to know where you are first.
 
true i just dont feel that safe with the original front end to bring it down to so cal with me and run it. I want the front end and headers done at least then I will run it. Also will need to put the driveshaft loop in and get slicks or radials
 
sounds like yoi have a lot to do before you worry about the intake.
 
Good combo. Just remember that all the HP in the world won't make good ET's unless you can hook it up! A few things to add to your wish list my 2-cents worth:

* Frame connectors with roll bar tied into them with bars angled down from the side of the main hoop.
* Cheap front OEM or good drag shocks.
* At least SS springs w/aluminum or poly front bushings.
* Rear drag shocks.
* Get the widest rim that will fit with the widest tire that will fit. (i.e.: 10" rims w/9" slicks)
* I like 4-hole or 4-hole tapered spacers over open, especially with a single plane. But a good dual plane will work well also. (Weiand Stealth, LD340, - not sure if the quality of the Crosswind is the same or worse than the original Air-Gap.) I tested a Stealth to a Holley Strip Dominator and the Holley was a little faster. But I have a LOT more gear and converter and stay over 4,900 after the launch. I wouldn't make porting the intake a high priority. Money better spent on other things as well as carb tuning.
* 750 DP should be plenty. A bigger carb may be harder to tune.

* When you do rebuild the front end, get an alignment at race weight including driver weight in the seat and the front raised at least 1" shooting for "0" or a teeny bit of toe-in. Poly strut rod bushings but good rubber bushings elsewhere.
 
Orange, you should have no trouble dipping into the elevens. If I were you I would have the roll bar on the drawing board. My Duster is one of those cars that has less than yours. It has a smaller exaust, smaller cam, less gear (3.23) and plain old BF goodrich 255-15s (don't want to tie the frame) and runs 12.00s with 191-192 sixty foot times. Your car ought to fly.

Mark
 
thanks guys next things on board are headers and front end rebuild then run it
 
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