racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I believe the lower mount is moved outboard as compared to a stock LCA.
12:05 Garage- ’70 Duster build
- Thread starter racerjoe
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DionR
Well-Known Member
Wow, I completely missed that you have shaved the wiper motor off the firewall. Looks slick.
Do you remember what product you used to wrap your engine harness? Looks really clean and harness wrap has been one of the many unknowns for me as I get ready to build the harness for my G3.
Do you remember what product you used to wrap your engine harness? Looks really clean and harness wrap has been one of the many unknowns for me as I get ready to build the harness for my G3.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
Check out wirecare.com. They have a bunch of different types and sizes. I think I used the standard split flex F6.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Looks like you used some kind of tape at the points where the harness splits?
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I tried to use heat shrink wherever possible. Where I couldn't, I made a wrap around the wire under the endpoint of the loom, then brought the tape out of the split loom and made a couple wraps on top of the loom. This keeps the loom from moving around on the wire. When I make the harness for the G3, I'll use heat shrink tape.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
have you tried self amalgamating tape? you stretch it as you wrap it and it bonds to the layer below.
neil.
en.wikipedia.org
neil.
Self-amalgamating tape - Wikipedia
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
Many years ago I used it for generator and motor connections. I've never used it in an automotive application.have you tried self amalgamating tape? you stretch it as you wrap it and it bonds to the layer below.
neil.
Self-amalgamating tape - Wikipedia
mygasser
Well-Known Member
i once used it as a get me home radiator hose repair, i did leave the cap loose so the system didn't build pressure though. it did get me home.
neil.
neil.
DionR
Well-Known Member
It doesn't seem like something you would want to wrap a whole harness in, but might work well for the ends of the mesh covering.
I am leaning towards the Tesa tape that the place racerjoe referenced sells. At least for the ends and junctions, probably not the whole harness. Time will tell.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
yeah, i did mean at junctions and ends only.
neil.
neil.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I wrapped all of my harnesses in this loom, not just the engine harness. It's held up very well, even in the front wheel well where the headlight harness runs.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I didn't think you were suggesting to wrap the whole harness, more just thinking out loud. I should have been clearer.
I just meant the self-amalgamating tape that mygasser referenced.
I like the F6 loom, only drawback I can think of is if you wanted to give the harness some shape. I guess if I wanted it to go around a corner, I could wrap just a section with the Tesa tape to give it some shape and then cover it with the F6 loom. Not certain I would need to do that, I just know the Magnum harnesses I have worked on had corners built into it.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
It is easily shaped. I laid out all of my harness first throughout the car (and engine) and put a couple wraps of masking tape every couple inches to hold the shape. When I came back with the loom, the wires had some "memory" in them since the masking tape held them along the way. You could use electrical tape and leave it, but I used masking tape since it removes easy. I didn't want to leave them taped in the harness in case I needed to pull some slack or pull one out.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I finally got around to getting rid of those offset shackles. I swear I could almost feel them bending on turns. Hopefully this will give me some lateral stiffness. Note suspension is hanging, that's why the bearing is all the way toward the front. It should be around 75% toward the back with the weight of the car on it.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
nice things but i've always thought they'd be noisy. for me, i'd make up a panhard bar and poly bush the shackles (not 70's ones though, lol).
neil.
I’ve put sliders on my car almost 8 years ago now, I use the car as my daily most of the year. The sliders do “click” occasionally, but I almost never actually hear it over the exhaust and the stereo. So, they do make some noise, but, a lot of things on these cars make some noise and the noise from the sliders is occasional and not all that loud. So I very rarely ever notice it.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
also and i forgot to mention there'll still be side to side axle movement due to flex in the leaf springs themselves. if handling is the goal either a panhard bar or watts link setup is best.
neil.
neil.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I'm not concerned about the noise and as @72bluNblu mentioned, it isn't anything to worry about. I had poly bushings. I'm sure they give a little, but I'm thinking the bend in the shackle itself is where the deflection comes from. They are just a piece of flat steel with 2 bends, they are already weak laterally by design. Tire rub is the tell tale sign that I'm getting movement, so I had to do something. Those shackles are fine for 95% of people out there. I just found their limit.
A panhard bar would be great, the problem is the pivot locations need to be in an exact spot to prevent suspension from binding up. Finding that spot would be next to impossible for me. Not to mention, I have full exhaust and stock type fuel tank. There's not a whole lot of room under there for more stuff.
dano
Evil Handy Man
@72bluNblu @racerjoe How much does the pinion angle change with sliders?
The way I did my car the change in height was less than 3/8” from just the slider swap over. Since it was all from the rear it would definitely tilt the yoke down a little more, but it would be a fairly minor effect. I honestly didn’t check it again after the slider install and didn’t have any vibration issues. Probably not the best way to have done it but that’s what I did.
My car has a B-body 8 3/4 in it though, which have their pads welded at a different angle than A’s did anyway. I checked it all and shimmed it to the correct angle when I did the T56 install, but that install obviously changed other variables too.
If you’re building brackets there’s no reason you couldn’t make them a bit taller to keep the rear eye of the spring in the same place with the slider install.
dano
Evil Handy Man
Thanks. I just corrected angle after redoing my TKO Crossmember so the exhaust would tuck tighter. I'll just check it again before and after and adjust.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I didn't measure it either.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
No photos but I believe I finally have the new front end setup the way I want it. Initially the track width was too narrow for my liking, so I had to take it all apart to extend the UCA/LCA. While I was doing this, I also decided to modify (shorten) the SPC UCAs I had. Trying to adjust cam bolts with a coil over and the hoops is kind of a pain in the ***. Especially when you have some awesome SPCs calling your name from across the garage. I did have some struggles getting the caster right on the driver side, but it's no fault of the HDK. I think the UCA mounts are welded a little further forward on this side. The right side practically fell to the settings I wanted. I had this struggle in the past with the stock K and I thought it was the K. Apparently not. Some minor adjustments on the LCA mounting locations and all was good. I went with more camber than I was running on the stock setup mostly due to the reduced camber gain with the HDK. Not sure if that's a valid reason, but that's my excuse. Heading up to Moparty Thursday and looking forward to seeing what this setup can do. I'm also looking forward to what MPH it will run in the 1/4 now with the free flowing exhaust and weight savings from the HDK. I'll admit, it feels pretty darn good on the street so far.
So the SPC arms worked good with the coil overs? What spindle/brake setup are you running?
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