13.3's to 11.8's to Forget it...

whose got this?

  • 318hasason 392 Hemi

    Votes: 9 64.3%

  • 318isaDad 360 Duster

    Votes: 5 35.7%
  • Total voters
    14
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pittsburghracer said:
Thank God for guys that don’t mind working towards an easy goal instead of taking the wimpy way out and bolting on “the blue bottle”. Take pride in what YOU can do. Hold your head high.
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Oh come on, it ain't wimpy to take a bargain barrel set up and want to go fast with a bottle lol. I know where you are coming form 100% but there is a time and place for all speed parts,I don't like the blue bottles either my favorite are white!.
 
318willrun said:
wondering about the 484 cam with magnum heads and 1.6 rocker? I've only done LA heads, never done Mag heads on a LA block. This would be my first time if I go that route.
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You know that may be the ticket,they will flow at least as good and give you a bump in compression. I always love bang for the buck/run whatcha brung and I cannot see where a ported magnum head 360 with 10.1 or better compression and a 284/484 cam cannot make some power as long as you got the tune right. I would get greedy and go for 10.5-11 with the mags,the 284 is a decent sized cam at 241 duration at .050. For me it would all come down to the convertor, I would put in more than most people would even with the 3.55s.
 
lead69 said:
You know that may be the ticket,they will flow at least as good and give you a bump in compression. I always love bang for the buck/run whatcha brung and I cannot see where a ported magnum head 360 with 10.1 compression and a 284/484 cam cannot make some power as long as you got the tune right. For me it would all come down to the convertor, I would put in more than most people would even with the 3.55s.
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This could very well be the combo I try. However, I'm not against upgrading the cam or heads for that matter if I feel it's necessary to reach my number. Converter will key, I agree.
 
P.S. - my son and I were just talk'n, he can't wait for me to try.. :D
 
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lead69 said:
Oh come on, it ain't wimpy to take a bargain barrel set up and want to go fast with a bottle lol. I know where you are coming form 100% but there is a time and place for all speed parts,I don't like the blue bottles either my favorite are white!.
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I believe in a time and a place too but not a 11 second car. 7’s or low 8’s ok. Different story
 
318willrun said:
This could very well be the combo I try. However, I'm not against upgrading the cam or heads for that matter if I feel it's necessary to reach my number. Converter will key, I agree.
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Well money spent vs performance it almost seems wise to build what you have and save the money/upgraded parts for another build. no shame in not making a goal with spare parts and the flip side is its good to be king if it overachieves.
 
318willrun said:
Ok, cam suggestion? Lunati 703 ? ??
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I ran the Lunati "voodoo" #10200705 in my stock stroke 360 with Edelbrock heads.air gap intake, 850 quickfuel carb,3800 stall Ultimate converter 4.30 gears 11.78 @ 113...I ran the 703 in my 416 when we first put in together I believe in went 11 teens..with 3.91's..
 
318willrun said:
Thanks, and I agree. But for money sake, this is a list what I have that I'll be using, and a list of possibilities that I have that I could use. Not opposed to buying better heads and better cam.
I will use:



    • Doug headers, they are on the car with 2.5" duals out the back
    • 750 Holley Double pumper, it's on the car now.
    • One of the three intakes listed below
I have and could chose:



    • magnum heads with mild port work by me at home, hughes spring kit
    • magnum edelbrock RPM air gap
    • Weiand Stealth intake
    • LA RPM (non air gap and on car now)
    • LA 360 596 heads home ported by me 1.88/1.60
    • MP 284/484 cam (old grind)
    • 273 adjustable rockers/push rods in case i buy a solid cam.
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The most important part you need is a good converter. 3000 or higher . Some 904's in 71 and newer had 3000's . I just got lucky and the trans I put in the brown Duster has one. It was pulled from a 73 Charger with a 318 and brake stalls at 2500 .

With a 904 and small tires 391's will work. Put a taller tire on it to street drive it when not at the track. With your combination some tire spin on launch will be good. Most of the time big tires look good but are not always the best choice.

The weiand intake and 750 carter is what I have on my 318 it works great, Your double pumper? Square the carb at the transfer ports and drill holes in the venturies to get it to idle. Do not use the idle screw to raise the idle above the squared port. If the idle is high you can lower it but never go above square in the throat. You will need to do that with that cam choice for better bottom end torque .

Just a couple tips you may want to use.

Stock 318 motor

DSCN0974.JPG


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DSCN0008.JPG
 
lead69 said:
Gray is a nice color too!, If I got a grand, a 13 second car and want to go 11s I am buying a nitrous kit,to me that's just good economics.
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It’s a different world today and I’m glad I grew up in a time and area where we worked, street raced almost every night and if we lost worked again. Nitrous was available but we didn’t need it to run 11’s back then. We had crap parts unlike today so honestly it would be harder for me to build an 11 second car than it would a 10 second car. ProMax heads and a good convertor is a great start to any 10-11 second build on a budget. Throw in a good 750 Holley, port matched intake, .480-.520 cam, and 3.55-3.91’s and you are making bacon.
 
pittsburghracer said:
It’s a different world today and I’m glad I grew up in a time and area where we worked, street raced almost every night and if we lost worked again. Nitrous was available but we didn’t need it to run 11’s back then. We had crap parts unlike today so honestly it would be harder for me to build an 11 second car than it would a 10 second car. ProMax heads and a good convertor is a great start to any 10-11 second build on a budget. Throw in a good 750 Holley, port matched intake, .480-.520 cam, and 3.55-3.91’s and you are making bacon.
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I understand and agree but when someone wants to have a fast street car on a budget it is all about the bang for the buck and how many speed parts can someone buy for the price of a nitrous kit?. Another thing to think about is how cheap it was back then, I cannot buy any running mopar with a 340/440 for $400 and most mopar projects today for cheap (relative to today's prices)have a 7 1/4. Although speed parts are way better today gas is way worse so we have to have better parts and more precision building.

My point is with the prices of parts and cars now making a 13 second car run 11s (not considering streetability) is more intense on the wallet than it used to be truthfully. I miss going to wrecking yards and buying a used 3.91 posi for $100-most yards thought mopars were junk around here. Now that same piece is more around $600 and I for one can say that my wages have not increased by that percentage.

How much of this relates to the op I really do not know but with the way things are today I would never accuse someone of taking the easy way out with nitrous.
 
I forgot to mention tire size and old man mopar beat me to it,they can make those 3.55s more like 3.91s with a shorter race tire.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
The most important part you need is a good converter. 3000 or higher . Some 904's in 71 and newer had 3000's . I just got lucky and the trans I put in the brown Duster has one. It was pulled from a 73 Charger with a 318 and brake stalls at 2500 .

With a 904 and small tires 391's will work. Put a taller tire on it to street drive it when not at the track. With your combination some tire spin on launch will be good. Most of the time big tires look good but are not always the best choice.

The weiand intake and 750 carter is what I have on my 318 it works great, Your double pumper? Square the carb at the transfer ports and drill holes in the venturies to get it to idle. Do not use the idle screw to raise the idle above the squared port. If the idle is high you can lower it but never go above square in the throat. You will need to do that with that cam choice for better bottom end torque .

Just a couple tips you may want to use.

Stock 318 motor

View attachment 1715421416

View attachment 1715421417

View attachment 1715421418
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The 750 DP works flawlessly right now. Even with the stock converter and 2.94's it's all go from the word go. Cuts consistent 1.8's 60 ft
 
lead69 said:
I forgot to mention tire size and old man mopar beat me to it,they can make those 3.55s more like 3.91s with a shorter race tire.
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I have 26" MT ET streets. That's what I'll be running.
 
pittsburghracer said:
It’s a different world today and I’m glad I grew up in a time and area where we worked, street raced almost every night and if we lost worked again. Nitrous was available but we didn’t need it to run 11’s back then. We had crap parts unlike today so honestly it would be harder for me to build an 11 second car than it would a 10 second car. ProMax heads and a good convertor is a great start to any 10-11 second build on a budget. Throw in a good 750 Holley, port matched intake, .480-.520 cam, and 3.55-3.91’s and you are making bacon.
Click to expand...
I believe you run the fully ported ProMaxx. These are the heads I was considering.
PROMAXX Performance Shocker Series Small Block Mopar Cylinder Heads 93605
 
just some real simple math. If I got 2.5 tenths each on the 4 items I named, that would drop me 1 full second, putting me at 12.3's. But what are the possibilities?? Fill in your own blanks and see if I'm not so far off.
  • Stock 360 heads vs _________ = ___ tenths
  • 204*@050 .427 lift vs ___________=____ tenths
  • Stock 904 converter vs ___________ =____ tenths
  • 2.94 gears vs 3.23 (3.55?) = _____ tenths.
 
318willrun said:
The 750 DP works flawlessly right now. Even with the stock converter and 2.94's it's all go from the word go. Cuts consistent 1.8's 60 ft
Click to expand...
When you ad that 484 things will change with that carb. If its not a 4 corner idle circuit carb you may have to drill some holes in the venturies .

Squaring the carb is adjust the throttle plates until the transfer port opening is square. Meaning it is open as much as it is wide. If it don't idle there you will have to drill the throttle plates or it will run rich and always suit up the pipes. Never go beyond square. Start there and close them up if it is idling high. Never open them beyond that point. Again if it idles to low you have to drill the throttle plates. This is only done when adding a large cam with excessive overlap.

The hole drilled as shown in last pic is 3/32

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Shortly after the holidays, I want the plan to be in place. If I go with a different cam or heads than what I have, I'll be on the phone ordering. Same with gears and converter. By spring I'd like to go from a 20 mph roll stride-for-stride with the big 392 Hemi LOL.
 
pittsburghracer said:
It’s a different world today and I’m glad I grew up in a time and area where we worked, street raced almost every night and if we lost worked again. Nitrous was available but we didn’t need it to run 11’s back then. We had crap parts unlike today so honestly it would be harder for me to build an 11 second car than it would a 10 second car. ProMax heads and a good convertor is a great start to any 10-11 second build on a budget. Throw in a good 750 Holley, port matched intake, .480-.520 cam, and 3.55-3.91’s and you are making bacon.
Click to expand...
You need to stop telling the truth. lol
 
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