15V

[512Stroker]

That's one - maybe. Sure looks like the heat was at the wire crimps into the wires.
"There's an extra wire added to that ammeter. Wonder if that modification had anything to do with the fire?"
Sure does look like that's a possibility. Very unlikely the factory added a second red wire.

Dude I dont know what your problem is the fire issue with ammeters has been around for decades and I have witnessed it first hand in a 70 Roadrunner. If you dont believe it so be it.
I have better things to do, I'm done.
Byyyyyeeee!

 

[Mattax]

Simple. I hate seeing people hack their cars and make problems. Particularly in cases like this where its not related to the issue at hand

This pisses people off, like this dano here

Or leaves a guy on the side of the road needing tow. Like what happened to Beer when he took Boob's advice...

Fortunately he was able to get back on track with his troublesheeting, now knowing it was not the ammeter. He used a technique in tracking shorts mentioned in one of the Chrysler master books.

Then there's MacGuyver who ignored what the ammeter showing.
(Those Jeep ammeters pegs at 60 Amps! )
At least the link went..finally...

Probably...
Charging Battery with Alternator - Warning

and then there are folks like this spider who who don't have a clue

Unfortunately some others like poor Coyote get caught in their web.

 

[Mattax]

I have this mobile battery tester

View attachment 1715416825

View attachment 1715416826

View attachment 1715416827

That's interesting.
and this tester attaches or blue tooth to your smartphone??
It takes a pretty serious resistance in a circuit to load a battery.
I'm sure I'm not the only one curious about the tester.

I think my multimeter is bad... looks like it shows 14.4-14.8 charge ( which fails according to battery tester Lol )

I don't understand that first result as 'fail.' Wrong setting?
Some of the other guys here may have suggestions for verifying the multimeter's accuracy.

On some meters its better to probe for voltage differences between two points in the circuit. Better in that you can use a different scale. For example, measuring between the alternator Batt terminal and the regulator 'ignition' terminal with the engine running. On an analog meter you might switch it to the 5 Volt scale. On a digital, it might automatically change the scale/sensitivity.
The other advantage of reading the voltage difference directly is there is no math involved. ;)

 

[67Dart273]

 

[67Dart273]

 

[67Dart273]

 

[808-dartGT]

That's interesting.
and this tester attaches or blue tooth to your smartphone??
It takes a pretty serious resistance in a circuit to load a battery.
I'm sure I'm not the only one curious about the tester.


I don't understand that first result as 'fail.' Wrong setting?
Some of the other guys here may have suggestions for verifying the multimeter's accuracy.

On some meters its better to probe for voltage differences between two points in the circuit. Better in that you can use a different scale. For example, measuring between the alternator Batt terminal and the regulator 'ignition' terminal with the engine running. On an analog meter you might switch it to the 5 Volt scale. On a digital, it might automatically change the scale/sensitivity.
The other advantage of reading the voltage difference directly is there is no math involved. ;)

Yes it’s a Bluetooth, you connect to battery terminals and run a taser through your smartphone, for charging test you start with idle and then you have to bring up RPM to 2500 for few seconds, I’m sure I was way off on that part without a tach, so I kinda ignore that part at the moment

 

[Mattax]

Yes it’s a Bluetooth, you connect to battery terminals and run a taser through your smartphone, for charging test you start with idle and then you have to bring up RPM to 2500 for few seconds, I’m sure I was way off on that part without a tach, so I kinda ignore that part at the moment

Pretty cool.

So for this one, system test, we can take a guess on what it means.

Knowing the tester was measuring at the battery, 14.8 Volts is probably close to alternator's output voltage.
The programming may be based on something where 14.8 V is low but for this car its not.

Then the tester added load drawing more current from the alternator.
The current to the tester flowed the same path that current would flow when the battery is charging. The ammeter should have moved toward charge.
There are at least two possible reasons why voltage at the battery dropped.
1. At idle speed the alternator couldn't produce enough power to run the ignition, the alternator, and supply the test load at 14.8 V.
2. There is some resistance in the wiring. Wherever current flows through resistance, voltage is reduced. Increasing current or increasing resistance will cause a greater drop in voltage.

Earlier in this thread there were suggestions about checking the voltage at the alternator output terminal against the voltage at the regulator input terminal. Excessive resistance between those two points is a common cause for high voltage.

 

[808-dartGT]

Ok, so I brought different multimeter (fluke) I checked the battery 12.7V, checked alternator lug same voltage, started the car, slow idle 13.4-13.8V, if I rev up over a 1000 rpm ( just guessing) it’s stabilizes at around 14.8V
I think I’ll leave it for now, I’m happy with that. At the idle of I turn lights and fan on it’s not enough juice produced so it’s draining battery, but if I bring revs up, it’s all good. I think I’m happy for this portion and on to next thing. I need new brake lines, changed master already, electrical wire change as needed, steering box adjustments, full on suspension bushings, leaf springs, carb rebuild or replacement, possibly rear end rebuilt, new exhaust and manifold, and lots of rust repairs lol

 

[67Dart273]

Ok, so I brought different multimeter (fluke) I checked the battery 12.7V, checked alternator lug same voltage, started the car, slow idle 13.4-13.8V, if I rev up over a 1000 rpm ( just guessing) it’s stabilizes at around 14.8V
I think I’ll leave it for now, I’m happy with that. At the idle of I turn lights and fan on it’s not enough juice produced so it’s draining battery, but if I bring revs up, it’s all good. I think I’m happy for this portion and on to next thing. I need new brake lines, changed master already, electrical wire change as needed, steering box adjustments, full on suspension bushings, leaf springs, carb rebuild or replacement, possibly rear end rebuilt, new exhaust and manifold, and lots of rust repairs lol

Check it warm as well, if you did not. I bet it's a bet lower. that 14.8 is tolerable.