172 Tooth Flywheel in my ´68 Barracuda.

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SSing

SSing

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I have a B-body Ansen 5031T steel casting bell housing.
l Is it possible to use this on my `68 Barracuda?
Yes 172 tooth flywheel and direct starter.
I don´t like the look of a Lakewood on my SS/B tribute build, so I´m trying something else here...
Headers are 1 7/8" original Hooker look-a-like
20160426_130948[1]Ansen.jpg
 
Yes, I have talked to Brewer´s before about it, and they advise me not to, but I feel it was not like it couldn't be done.
I will custom build the headers, and the clutch linkage has to be altered anyway...

Is it simply about the Ansen unit being to big or what?

Can it bee done, and would the 11" clutch and 172 tooth fly wheel work for me to have a well performing SS/B wannabe?

I of cause realize this combo probably has not been tried before, since there are a safe and easy way to do this with the Lakewood unit. Is there a problem performance wise, with the bigger clutch bay be?
 
The ribs on the Ansen may be the downfall for you and your bell crank may need modification. With my Lakewood I have at best a half inch clearance to the tunnel toward the rear of the housing. Then too, that Ansen appears to have a steeper taper. As far as my clutch combo, I've had an 11"- 143 tooth setup in mine forever because it was already there when acquired. It's worked fine but I'm not racing either. I do believe most versatile parts are in the 10-1/2" range these days. The MP book doesn't recommend 11" (full) for racing but provide no reasoning that I've found. I do have a 10-1/2" setup that will go in next time.
LakewooClear.gif
 
Daves69 said:
The ribs on the Ansen may be the downfall for you and your bell crank may need modification. With my Lakewood I have at best a half inch clearance to the tunnel toward the rear of the housing. Then too, that Ansen appears to have a steeper taper. As far as my clutch combo, I've had an 11"- 143 tooth setup in mine forever because it was already there when acquired. It's worked fine but I'm not racing either. I do believe most versatile parts are in the 10-1/2" range these days. The MP book doesn't recommend 11" (full) for racing but provide no reasoning that I've found. I do have a 10-1/2" setup that will go in next time.
View attachment 1714929317
Click to expand...

Ok thanks,
Do you have the 1/2" K-frame spacers?
Now the Ansen Bell need a direct drive starter and 172 t fly wheel. Did some searching on the net, and see McLeod have a aluminium fly wheel with several bolt patters including 10.5" clutch. What do you say?
 
My 440 sits in the stock 383 location with no spacers for the K. Old school clutch with the B&B style plate. I also have FW Hookers. McLeod tends to be a high quality product and many folks recommend them over the B&B hands down. I'm sure someone here or on forbbodiesonly will have some input on McLeod types of setup.
 
Daves69 said:
My 440 sits in the stock 383 location with no spacers for the K. Old school clutch with the B&B style plate. I also have FW Hookers. McLeod tends to be a high quality product and many folks recommend them over the B&B hands down. I'm sure someone here or on forbbodiesonly will have some input on McLeod types of setup.
Click to expand...

ok thanks,
Well I should be able to do the mock up, to see the bell to tunnel clearance with in a few weeks. I think this is the critical point. If I have to, I lower the trans frame just enough. But no more than a 1/4 of an inch, than the Ansen has to go
 
Incidentally, if you decide the Ansen works for you, don't forget to indicate it in.
 
Yes, I have a tread in the Members Restauration Forum call SS/B project. Here I have now some pictures and summery how it turned out...
 
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