18,000 orig. mile 318 build

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Well found out a few days ago that the 8.25 rear i was gunna pick up is now gone. Other than the 8.25 or 8.75 is there any other rear (chevy, ford...) That will swap in with little to no mods? Im a welder so thats not too big of a deal but dont really wanna bother with shortening a rear then having to order rear axles. Now getting one that maybe longer on one side that i can shorten and use two short axles that would be ok but more less looking for a bolt in or close to it swap.
 
Forgot this was an F body.

'76-'80 Aspen/Volare

'77-'81 LeBaron

'77-'89 Diplomat

'82-'89 Gran Fury

'82 New Yorker

'83-'89 New Yorker Fifth Avenue

'80-'83 Mirada/Cordoba/Imperial

All body styles have the same perches. Pretty sure all wagons got 8.25s, most all cop cars did. 360 cars also automatically got 8.25s. Other than that, check- lots got them. People often like to make '65-'70 B body rears fit, the perches are about .23" off on each side so it's not a huge deal.

If you can't find an M or B rear, you can move the perches outboard on a Jeep 8.25/Explorer 8.8 or something like that. Dakota 5 lugs ('90-down) might be a valid donor too.
 
Well guys the car has been tucked away in my garage do to weather. Since my last post I did come across and bought a B Body 8.75 rear. I got it cheap enough but need a lower gear ring n pinion and think im going with a spool. So far im debating on buildin on the current 318 or drop in my 400 from my now retired pulling truck. As of now looking for opinions and weighing out cost of both. Reason I was thinking 400 because thers alot of goodies already on it. MSD pro billit dizzy, Mopar M1 single plane, KB pistons, Ported with bigger valve 906 heads, Lunati .525 lift solid cam with crane roller adj. rockers, ARP rod n main bolts, cloyes double roller, HV oil pump etc.... Opinions??
 
Big blocks fit nice in F - bodies.... I'd go with your 400 without further question
 
Big blocks fit nice in F - bodies.... I'd go with your 400 without further question

Thanks for the reply. im kinda unsure what all I need inorder to do the swap. What oil pan, mounts, manifolds/headers etc.. At the moment im on a very tight budget but trying to weigh out the costs of both
 
Thanks for the reply. im kinda unsure what all I need inorder to do the swap. What oil pan, mounts, manifolds/headers etc.. At the moment im on a very tight budget but trying to weigh out the costs of both

I think if you have spool type big block mounts, your in business. Headers are according to what you want to spend. Of course, you'll need the big block tranny and radiator. Car oil pan/pick up tube. Will have to shorten the drive shaft or get a different one if going from a 904 to a 727. I would think you could get things going for 600.00 or less, means you have the motor and know what it is. If you bought second hand pieces, you could shave a lot of that 600 down......
 
I think if you have spool type big block mounts, your in business. Headers are according to what you want to spend. Of course, you'll need the big block tranny and radiator. Car oil pan/pick up tube. Will have to shorten the drive shaft or get a different one if going from a 904 to a 727. I would think you could get things going for 600.00 or less, means you have the motor and know what it is. If you bought second hand pieces, you could shave a lot of that 600 down......

I believe i have a set of spool mounts on another 400 block i have. The local u pull it has a bb in n imperial i was thinking of robbing manifolds from that. The radiator in my puller is actually a Champion Aluminum 26" for a B Body i think
 
I believe i have a set of spool mounts on another 400 block i have. The local u pull it has a bb in n imperial i was thinking of robbing manifolds from that. The radiator in my puller is actually a Champion Aluminum 26" for a B Body i think
Well on your way, sounds like fun! Make a thread out of the installation and post how she runs.... :cheers:
 
I think quite a few guys over on ForFMJOnly have done the 440/400/383 or one of the stroker variations. You might sign up over there and run it by them.
 
I just rebuitl my 1971 318. .030 over, all stock except for 360 exhaust valves, high volume oil pump, double roller timing chain. Original two barrel carb and exhaust manifolds with single exhaust. 904 with 2.76 gears in rear.

Upgraded the cam to Mopar Performance P4452757.

Engine still not broken in yet--maybe 90 miles on it. The 318 so far loves this little cam. Will keep you updated as I tweak everything.
 
Almost forgot: HEI ignition module with stock electronic distributor. Stock advance curve.
 
Almost forgot: HEI ignition module with stock electronic distributor. Stock advance curve.

Question - the advance curve is dead stock, in that there is no limiter plate (like the FBO unit) in it, correct?

-Kurt
 
None of this is intended to impugn your knowledge level, they are just suggestions. This is how I would approach this 318 if I did not a lot of money. You can look though craigslist or ask around to other motor heads to find a stock cast iron 4 barrel intake for $50 or sometimes even free. The stock MOPAR intake flows very well, and truth be known it out flows many low-end aluminum intakes. You can get a double roller chain and gears for about $30 to $40 (Seal Power), and a good cam & lifter kit from summit for about $125, stay in the 220 to 230 @50 duration the Summit Racing - SUM-1798. Stock stall is around 1000 to 1200 with the increase torque it will go to about 1500 rpm this cam should come in at about 1400 to 1500. This along with the gaskets $75 should be around $ 290 now the rest of the money should be spent on the little things, plug index kit $25, new plugs (just a little cooler then stock) $20 Champion. “Let me set the record straight for the guy who say they would not run anything but A/C plugs. A/C stands for Albert Champion who lost his patient to GM and started a new company called Champion.” Any who, new plug wires, don’t spend high dollar just a good set for about $35 to $40 bucks and a cap and rotor for $30, and wire looms $25. Last but not least is an orange ignition box you can find them all over the internet for $50 buck or less. This should give you about 75 to 100 hp gain and will be a lot of fun to drive. Stay away from headers until you have a few more bucks stock exhaust manifolds work fine with dual exhaust will flow up to 350 to 375 hp (it will run much cooler), you will make about 300 to 325 hp doing these changes. To save money you can dump the exhaust out in front of rear tires. Also you can install the Fel-Pro 1008 - Fel-Pro Performance Head Gaskets it is .039 compressed thickness from the stock .049 thickness and you will hit or be real close to 9 to 1 compression ratio. You can do all this for about $425 to $450. If you need a Carb you can get a used 600cfm Edelbrock for $50 to $100 dollars all day on line. Plan a Saturday (all day) and maybe some of Sunday too. If you are not real knowledgeable take Thursday and Friday evenings (about 2 hours a night) and watch some internet videos on intake manifold and cam changing, and how to index spark plugs. Install new plugs, cap, rotor, and orange ignition box, replacing these are self-explanatory, but they are on the web if need be. You will need 5qts of oil (with breaking additive) & a filter. 1 gal of antifreeze, (Drain Antifreeze before removing intake) and you will need some orange or black permatex (Use sparingly). A thin coat on both sides of the timing chain and water pump gasket (just for the pitting that occurs and to keep it in place during re-install) and then under and on top of the intake rubber end gaskets. Permatex in the crotch areas where the head and block meets and where the oil pan and block meet, a little thicker in these area about 1/6 inch. You can do all this with minimum tools (Wrenches & and sockets) MOPAR engines use rocker shafts so no valve adjusting is needed. You might have to rent or barrow and gear puller for the bottom timing chain sprocket. Run the engine for 10 minutes then shut it down, check antifreeze, then run for another 10 changing the rpm often from idle to 2000 rpms for the whole time. Then go out and have fun with it. This can all be done in the car and an amateur can do it in about 8 to 10 hours. Remember MOPAR stand for (Massively Over Powered And Respected) and for a true MOPAR person it is a (Mopar or No Car) GOOD LUCK and let us know how it goes.
 
Sorry. What I meant was it was an all-stock, non-performance distributor. Off the shelf, run of the mill 318 family car type.
 
Also a good option if you find them.

And on that used carb note - don't try it. Too much of a headache potential.

I'd suggest the new Summit 600cfm carb which has fantastic reviews (and a bowl design that won't leak like a Holley) and no reports of loose throttle shafts out of the box due to poor castings.

However, I think a 600cfm might be a bit over the top for a smog-era 318 with minimal mods. You don't want your engine budget getting sucked through the venturis with no purpose other than to score your cylinder walls prematurely.

-Kurt
The cheap Holleys are also fantastic. Definitely worth messing with.

I do have a set of 2 15" wheels on the front of my d100 i think they are around 7" wide. What about staggering the two like the LO23 dart 14s in front 15s in back?
These cars came with 15x7s all around on some years. They'll fit/work fine- would be a good ugprade. Ford wheels need the centers opened to fit a Chrysler product.

What about the later 318 (302) heads? Ive read that they flow pretty decent and have the closed chamber bowls
Shouldn't be a consideration. You'll maintain your stock low compression unless you mill them, but won't gain any flow to note. A stock 340/360 intake would be an improvement, RPM, Airgap, LD340 would be better but more money. A decent 340-sized cam would see improvement. Upgrading to some cheap 340/360/318-4 heads could be worth doing. Primary goal should be getting everything back up to snuff and maintenance items. A Magnum motor swap would be a huge step ahead for a driver.
 
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