abdywgn
dismantler
oops, missed the part about $20 shipping.(delivered) for a grommet for $10 carpet...lol
when we talk about our cars at shows, the next topic of conversation will be "how much I have in shipping".
1963 Dart 170 2 Door Post Resto
- Thread starter Mineallmine
- Start date
-
when we talk about our cars at shows, the next topic of conversation will be "how much I have in shipping".
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Finally getting the final touches done. Took the front seat apart and got the seat tracks all cleaned up and painted. Even repainted the big spring red again. Also taped off the seats and sanded and sprayed the seat back pivots. Look much better now.
Still have to decide what to do about the radio and volume issue. Either replace it, send it for repair, or send it to be upgraded to modern. Would replace it in a heartbeat if it wasn't in such nice physical condition. Also really like the black knobs and push buttons.
Plan to finish the interior over the next couple days and schedule getting it in for safety so I can have it on the road hopefully by the middle of the month. Can't wait!! I have never actually driven this car.
Still have to decide what to do about the radio and volume issue. Either replace it, send it for repair, or send it to be upgraded to modern. Would replace it in a heartbeat if it wasn't in such nice physical condition. Also really like the black knobs and push buttons.
Plan to finish the interior over the next couple days and schedule getting it in for safety so I can have it on the road hopefully by the middle of the month. Can't wait!! I have never actually driven this car.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Well, here we go again...A couple steps forward, one step back...
Got the front seat all finished and installed. Came out pretty good. (despite the not top quality upholstery work). Got the seat belts installed as well. Could probably be a little longer but the 60" work. Still have 4" or so of adjustment. May order the longer ones later, but at least that's an easy swap.
Even the radio is working now. Not sure how but now the volume is working correctly now. Not arguing though as I didn't want to have to replace such a nice condition radio. Even have a vintage FM converter to add for more variety of radio stations.
Here's where the back come in again. Noticed the other day my dash lights quit again. Checked and found the fuse wasn't making good contact again. If you touched it, it would work but wasn't consistent. Removed it and gave it a good cleaning. Dash lights again!! But now I noticed when you put the park or headlights on the signals light up dull on the dash, and when you use the high beams the high indicator is dull and same issue with the signal indicators. I cleaned the dash ground really good (when I was initially trying to get dash lights). I am guessing a bad ground somewhere, just have to start looking again to find it.
Other than that, a few small finishing touches and I'm finally on the road (after getting a safety done of course)
Got the front seat all finished and installed. Came out pretty good. (despite the not top quality upholstery work). Got the seat belts installed as well. Could probably be a little longer but the 60" work. Still have 4" or so of adjustment. May order the longer ones later, but at least that's an easy swap.
Even the radio is working now. Not sure how but now the volume is working correctly now. Not arguing though as I didn't want to have to replace such a nice condition radio. Even have a vintage FM converter to add for more variety of radio stations.
Here's where the back come in again. Noticed the other day my dash lights quit again. Checked and found the fuse wasn't making good contact again. If you touched it, it would work but wasn't consistent. Removed it and gave it a good cleaning. Dash lights again!! But now I noticed when you put the park or headlights on the signals light up dull on the dash, and when you use the high beams the high indicator is dull and same issue with the signal indicators. I cleaned the dash ground really good (when I was initially trying to get dash lights). I am guessing a bad ground somewhere, just have to start looking again to find it.
Other than that, a few small finishing touches and I'm finally on the road (after getting a safety done of course)
B-i-n-g-o
Well-Known Member
Can't help on the dash lights, but, man...that car looks great, just better than new.
Don't know if anyone will ever see it once in place, but painting the spring red is a cool detail!
Don't know if anyone will ever see it once in place, but painting the spring red is a cool detail!
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
I think I just ran out of parts.... Finally!!
Other than installing the passenger kick panel when it gets here and fabricating a license plate mount the car is finally done.
Installed my vintage FM converter I got cheap and it looks and works like new. That and it looks like it belongs there. Utilized factory holes do no drilling required.
Original glove box reinstalled too. Actually in good condition.
Found my light issue too. Tried adding ground to no avail. I was pretty careful about grounds when I did the dash due to the initial light issue then I started disconnecting lights. Funny part is the first I went to was the front park lights. Was soon as I did the problem went away. I looked in the connectors and somehow I missed cleaning up one contact....ONE!! How does one do that?? Lol. Any way, cleaned it as best I could and plugged it in and out a few times and checked again. All good to go now.
Now to make some floor mats out of roll mat material to match my floor layout until I decide what to order
Oh, and I've already cleaned up the wiring after this picture. The hanging wires would have driven me nuts.
Other than installing the passenger kick panel when it gets here and fabricating a license plate mount the car is finally done.
Installed my vintage FM converter I got cheap and it looks and works like new. That and it looks like it belongs there. Utilized factory holes do no drilling required.
Original glove box reinstalled too. Actually in good condition.
Found my light issue too. Tried adding ground to no avail. I was pretty careful about grounds when I did the dash due to the initial light issue then I started disconnecting lights. Funny part is the first I went to was the front park lights. Was soon as I did the problem went away. I looked in the connectors and somehow I missed cleaning up one contact....ONE!! How does one do that?? Lol. Any way, cleaned it as best I could and plugged it in and out a few times and checked again. All good to go now.
Now to make some floor mats out of roll mat material to match my floor layout until I decide what to order
Oh, and I've already cleaned up the wiring after this picture. The hanging wires would have driven me nuts.
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mygasser
Well-Known Member
missing that connector could be as simple as your phone rang and when you got back to it you saw one clean joint and assumed they were all done. been there, done that, lol.
neil.
neil.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Could be. I am just glad it was a quick find. Looking forward to driving it
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
I don't know about better than new, but at least as good as I have the skills to do it. Getting better with every try, but definitely not top quality in my opinion. I don't have the skill or money for that. Besides, I plan to drive it like it was meant to be driven. It's going to get driven, and driven a lot.
As to the seat spring, it was just coincidence that I happened to have a can of red paint handy when I took them apart. The springs were originally red, so i figured why not? It's apart already.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Well, this time no steps forward and a whole bunch backwards...lol. Was doing a full once over on the car before taking it for safety. When I first checked the ball joints it was partially hung so there was some load on them. When I checked they seemed tight. I wasn't happy with that so I raised the front of the car with the suspension under load to check again and sure enough, there's some play.
And since I'm always one to go WAY farther than I probably need to I ordered pretty much everything. Only thing I did not order was lower control arm bushings. I couldn't feel any play in them. I will probably double check once I get the tension off the bars. I can have them overnight if need be. I did order new upper and lower ball joints, new inner and outer tie rods, new upper control arm bushings, new idler arm and new pitman arm. I figured if I had to tear into it and was doing an alignment after any way, make sure I knew what I had and no half way with it.
Kinda screws up getting it on the road this upcoming weekend, unless by a miracle the pitman arm and idler come in quick and I can still get an appointment. (I know, a lot of "ifs").
I just hope I can get enough time to tear it apart and get it rebuilt before the weekend. Got everything for the suspension, and the tie rods. Just need the pitman arm and idler to show up. These were pretty much the only parts on the car that were not replaced originally. Lesson learned I guess.
And since I'm always one to go WAY farther than I probably need to I ordered pretty much everything. Only thing I did not order was lower control arm bushings. I couldn't feel any play in them. I will probably double check once I get the tension off the bars. I can have them overnight if need be. I did order new upper and lower ball joints, new inner and outer tie rods, new upper control arm bushings, new idler arm and new pitman arm. I figured if I had to tear into it and was doing an alignment after any way, make sure I knew what I had and no half way with it.
Kinda screws up getting it on the road this upcoming weekend, unless by a miracle the pitman arm and idler come in quick and I can still get an appointment. (I know, a lot of "ifs").
I just hope I can get enough time to tear it apart and get it rebuilt before the weekend. Got everything for the suspension, and the tie rods. Just need the pitman arm and idler to show up. These were pretty much the only parts on the car that were not replaced originally. Lesson learned I guess.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
I really gotta learn to put down the damn shovel when I start digging...lol. After reading a bit and thinking I decided to proactively order the LCA bushings and and strut rod bushings and do everything while I am there, wore out or not. That way, I know what I have is all new and good to go.
I loosened off the Torsion bar (25 turns in my case...letting it be nice and loose) and removed the upper ball joint, supporting the spindle by Ty wrapping it to the shock to keep it from drooping and putting stress on the brake hose. I then proceeded to remove the upper control arm. Gotta love dry Arizona cars. The upper came apart super easy. Replaced the bushings and reinstalled it and installed the new upper ball joint. Going to wait until I get the lower done and put load on the suspension before I tighten the control arm bushings to better "center" them.
I then proceeded to remove the lower ball joint. Having the upper reinstalled allows the spindle to hang, again keeping no stress on the brake hose. I had to remove the lower spring on the brake assembly to allow access to the ball joint bolts. There is a notch in the hub to allow a socket extension to give access to the ball joint so as not to require hub removal. Again, came off really easy using the impact. Lower ball joint removed.
Here is where my first real problem comes in. I tried to remove the nut for the strut rod. It came off half way then stopped. Even with my impact it wouldn't budge either way. When I used my ratchet with a pipe on it I wound up loosening the outer nut. Not a loss as I think I can remove the strut rod with the lower control arm and worry about it when it's out. Hopefully it's not too hard to remove. Have it soaking overnight, but the threads didn't look bad so I'm not quite sure what happened. Hopefully tomorrow morning I'll have time to get the torsion bar clip out and remove the LCA nut and push the LCA back and out. We will see how that goes.
Hopefully the rest of my parts make it here this week so I can get it all finished by the weekend
I loosened off the Torsion bar (25 turns in my case...letting it be nice and loose) and removed the upper ball joint, supporting the spindle by Ty wrapping it to the shock to keep it from drooping and putting stress on the brake hose. I then proceeded to remove the upper control arm. Gotta love dry Arizona cars. The upper came apart super easy. Replaced the bushings and reinstalled it and installed the new upper ball joint. Going to wait until I get the lower done and put load on the suspension before I tighten the control arm bushings to better "center" them.
I then proceeded to remove the lower ball joint. Having the upper reinstalled allows the spindle to hang, again keeping no stress on the brake hose. I had to remove the lower spring on the brake assembly to allow access to the ball joint bolts. There is a notch in the hub to allow a socket extension to give access to the ball joint so as not to require hub removal. Again, came off really easy using the impact. Lower ball joint removed.
Here is where my first real problem comes in. I tried to remove the nut for the strut rod. It came off half way then stopped. Even with my impact it wouldn't budge either way. When I used my ratchet with a pipe on it I wound up loosening the outer nut. Not a loss as I think I can remove the strut rod with the lower control arm and worry about it when it's out. Hopefully it's not too hard to remove. Have it soaking overnight, but the threads didn't look bad so I'm not quite sure what happened. Hopefully tomorrow morning I'll have time to get the torsion bar clip out and remove the LCA nut and push the LCA back and out. We will see how that goes.
Hopefully the rest of my parts make it here this week so I can get it all finished by the weekend
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
A little more progress.
Didn't have a lot of time today but what I got done was good. I removed the lower control arm without any issues at all. Came out easily. (have I said before I love Arizona cars? lol). Pressed out the pin and removed the rubber. I tried the welded washer trick to remove the remaining cup but had no luck. Actually tore the washer at the welds. I decided to take my deburring tool and using my drill cut most of the way through the cup and then I was able to collapse the cup and it came out easy.
As for the pin I just cut most of the way through the sleeve and used my chisel in the groove to break it open and slide it off. Pretty easy actually.
As for the strut rod? Success!! Once I got the LCA out I wrapped the rod in a rag and put it in my vise. I then tried to loosen a little. It moved a little. Then I tried to tighten it and it tightened fine. Then it spun right off with no issues. It must have picked up some dirt and got stuck. No damaged threads at all and now I can spin it on and off by hand. Odd, but I'm not complaining.
Waiting on the remainder of the parts to arrive now.
One minor issue while removing the lower control arm. As soon as I tapped it the lower bump stop went flying. THe rubber was hard and it separated from the bolt. No biggie. I went looking to order new but only ones I could find were polyurethane. I did find some rubber ones for a later dart by Moog that look correct. I also noted that the poly ones fit up to 1976. Were they the same for all years? Just hoping to confirm. Already ordered so it may be a moot point as I'll find out tomorrow one way or another.
Unfortunately, most of the remaining parts won't arrive until later tomorrow so it will be Friday before I can get it all put back together. Only thing I may not get is the Idler arm. Hopefully it'll be her sooner than later.
Didn't have a lot of time today but what I got done was good. I removed the lower control arm without any issues at all. Came out easily. (have I said before I love Arizona cars? lol). Pressed out the pin and removed the rubber. I tried the welded washer trick to remove the remaining cup but had no luck. Actually tore the washer at the welds. I decided to take my deburring tool and using my drill cut most of the way through the cup and then I was able to collapse the cup and it came out easy.
As for the pin I just cut most of the way through the sleeve and used my chisel in the groove to break it open and slide it off. Pretty easy actually.
As for the strut rod? Success!! Once I got the LCA out I wrapped the rod in a rag and put it in my vise. I then tried to loosen a little. It moved a little. Then I tried to tighten it and it tightened fine. Then it spun right off with no issues. It must have picked up some dirt and got stuck. No damaged threads at all and now I can spin it on and off by hand. Odd, but I'm not complaining.
Waiting on the remainder of the parts to arrive now.
One minor issue while removing the lower control arm. As soon as I tapped it the lower bump stop went flying. THe rubber was hard and it separated from the bolt. No biggie. I went looking to order new but only ones I could find were polyurethane. I did find some rubber ones for a later dart by Moog that look correct. I also noted that the poly ones fit up to 1976. Were they the same for all years? Just hoping to confirm. Already ordered so it may be a moot point as I'll find out tomorrow one way or another.
Unfortunately, most of the remaining parts won't arrive until later tomorrow so it will be Friday before I can get it all put back together. Only thing I may not get is the Idler arm. Hopefully it'll be her sooner than later.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. got the front end all torn apart, cleaned up, and repainted where needed. Got the entire drivers side all rebuilt. New everything for suspension, braking and steering. Should drive like a new car now. (already did all new bushings in the rear).
Ran into only one other issue. One of the Moog lower control arm bushings is no good. The pin just slides in by hand, not press fit. I asked the question on the suspension forum to find out that this has been an issue with these Moog bushings. I originally thought it might be OK but then rethought that (and had it confirmed by a few members on here) that it wasn't. The pin would pivot in the bushing sleeve and not the rubber doing the twisting causing metal on metal wear. As the sleeves on these bushings are thin (and a little soft) it wouldn't be long before there was slop created. I ordered a new Moog bushing (can get it fastest) and an AC Delco (as a backup if the Moog is once again no good) to try and get the car back on its wheels sooner than later. I have a tentative appointment for a safety and alignment for this upcoming Thursday. Hopefully I'll be driving this car by next weekend.
Only other part I need is the Idler arm. Its on the way so I hope to get it early in the week to install it. Already have the old one out ready.
Even got the clips for my package tray I was looking for. Got the one I was missing from grampscamp on here. Great guy to deal with. Got the clips all cleaned up and painted black.
Ran into only one other issue. One of the Moog lower control arm bushings is no good. The pin just slides in by hand, not press fit. I asked the question on the suspension forum to find out that this has been an issue with these Moog bushings. I originally thought it might be OK but then rethought that (and had it confirmed by a few members on here) that it wasn't. The pin would pivot in the bushing sleeve and not the rubber doing the twisting causing metal on metal wear. As the sleeves on these bushings are thin (and a little soft) it wouldn't be long before there was slop created. I ordered a new Moog bushing (can get it fastest) and an AC Delco (as a backup if the Moog is once again no good) to try and get the car back on its wheels sooner than later. I have a tentative appointment for a safety and alignment for this upcoming Thursday. Hopefully I'll be driving this car by next weekend.
Only other part I need is the Idler arm. Its on the way so I hope to get it early in the week to install it. Already have the old one out ready.
Even got the clips for my package tray I was looking for. Got the one I was missing from grampscamp on here. Great guy to deal with. Got the clips all cleaned up and painted black.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
So.... Back to my usual... One step forward, over back... Getting kinda repetitive huh? . Made my front license plate mount today. I really like how it came out. Got it painted semi gloss black and is drying now.
Also got the new Moog bushing and guess what... Yep, same issue. Getting one from Napa tomorrow to see if I have better luck while waiting on the AC Delco to show up. Hopefully one of them is good. Then it's just wait for the idler. Hopefully it's here by Wednesday at the latest
Also got the new Moog bushing and guess what... Yep, same issue. Getting one from Napa tomorrow to see if I have better luck while waiting on the AC Delco to show up. Hopefully one of them is good. Then it's just wait for the idler. Hopefully it's here by Wednesday at the latest
I want to say ... Amazing... you have really inspired me... I have a '63 Valiant that I've started (my first real attempt at anything in restoration).
One thing I've been questioning myself about (after reading this forum and others) is the 7 1/4 rear. I hope you don't mind my asking, you stayed with this? Will it hold up? Amazing car...
One thing I've been questioning myself about (after reading this forum and others) is the 7 1/4 rear. I hope you don't mind my asking, you stayed with this? Will it hold up? Amazing car...
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Thanks. It's not a show car (in my opinion) but I'm pleased with how its coming out.
I am still running the original 7 1/4 rear. I have the original 170 slant so it should be plenty strong. I have considered upgrading, just keeping an eye out for a good candidate for a swap. There's a 68 up the road from me on blocks that looks like it might be a parts car in a lot. Just waiting to see the owner around to go over and ask about it. It would be the right size and maintain the small bolt pattern. I'm not going to be beating on the car, so for now the small rear should hold up ok. If I decide to upgrade the drive train later I will have to revisit it. At that point the entire suspension will be upgraded
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Good day today. Got the idler arm I was waiting on. Unfortunately, I didn't think it was going to make it so I rescheduled my safety for Tuesday so I loose the weekend driving it. Oh well.
Got the front end all back together and everything is done. Nice and tight. I even loosened the torsion bars a little. The front was half an inch higher than the rear. Never really looked right so now the front is half an inch lower. Looks really good now and suspension is still nice and solid
Have the passenger kick panel to install and floor mats to make then I am completely done. So happy with it. Front license plate mount looks nice too.
Got the front end all back together and everything is done. Nice and tight. I even loosened the torsion bars a little. The front was half an inch higher than the rear. Never really looked right so now the front is half an inch lower. Looks really good now and suspension is still nice and solid
Have the passenger kick panel to install and floor mats to make then I am completely done. So happy with it. Front license plate mount looks nice too.
B-i-n-g-o
Well-Known Member
You should be happy! Solid beauty!
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Got her out. Took it around the block and it is definitely different to drive (first time in years driving manual steering, manual brake car.) A little stiff to steer at slow speeds with the wider tires up front but not too bad. A little more driving will tell me what I need to adjust/address. Plates on Tuesday so I could only go around the small block in my neighborhood. May bee looking at a sway bar too. Definitely seems to have body roll. Just glad to be done.
Might polish it one more time too. Have some light swirls that can be seen reflecting in the sunlight at certain angles. Not bad, but would like to address them. Again, this isn't a professional restoration by any means, just want to make it as good as I can. Can't wait to start driving it.
Will put the hubcaps on after the safety as I know they have to pull the rims. Don't want any chance of the rims getting scratched with them removing the caps.
Might polish it one more time too. Have some light swirls that can be seen reflecting in the sunlight at certain angles. Not bad, but would like to address them. Again, this isn't a professional restoration by any means, just want to make it as good as I can. Can't wait to start driving it.
Will put the hubcaps on after the safety as I know they have to pull the rims. Don't want any chance of the rims getting scratched with them removing the caps.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
that's a very pretty car, you should be very proud of it 
neil.
neil.
abdywgn
dismantler
beautifully done. have to believe it would rivel a professional restoration.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
So. first few issues found. It rained pretty good the other day and I went out to check and the floor was wet. Very slight on the passenger side and a little more on the drivers side. I was worried I had a leak in my cowl area that I didn't find. Crawled under the dash with my scope and looked around. Everything in the vent area was dry.
Got my wife to spray the car while I sat in it and found both pretty quick. One was in the windshield gasket near the top drivers side and the other was a tiny one by the antennae grommet. Easy fixes fortunately. Added some sealant to the grommet and pulled out the lock strip and applied more setting compound and reinstalled the strip. Added more all along the top and down both sides just in case, even though every where else was dry.
Then I discovered I had no kick down. Adjusted it in a couple turns and now at full throttle it drops down nice. Also found my gas pedal grommet broke and the rod slid in past the grommet. I took it all apart and tack welded a stainless washer to the rod and reinstalled it with the sleeve and rubber grommet. (the washer was to replace the broken flat side of the original grommet). Actually seems firmer than it would have originally been due to reduced flex.
Once I get it on the road tomorrow and start driving it I can look for any other issues.
I also set the timing. It was at 10 degrees BTDC. The manual stated 2.5 degrees. I also read the slants like advance. I decided to set it at factory and see how it runs and go from there. Starts better and idles really smooth. so far so good.
Got my wife to spray the car while I sat in it and found both pretty quick. One was in the windshield gasket near the top drivers side and the other was a tiny one by the antennae grommet. Easy fixes fortunately. Added some sealant to the grommet and pulled out the lock strip and applied more setting compound and reinstalled the strip. Added more all along the top and down both sides just in case, even though every where else was dry.
Then I discovered I had no kick down. Adjusted it in a couple turns and now at full throttle it drops down nice. Also found my gas pedal grommet broke and the rod slid in past the grommet. I took it all apart and tack welded a stainless washer to the rod and reinstalled it with the sleeve and rubber grommet. (the washer was to replace the broken flat side of the original grommet). Actually seems firmer than it would have originally been due to reduced flex.
Once I get it on the road tomorrow and start driving it I can look for any other issues.
I also set the timing. It was at 10 degrees BTDC. The manual stated 2.5 degrees. I also read the slants like advance. I decided to set it at factory and see how it runs and go from there. Starts better and idles really smooth. so far so good.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
I'm Legal!!! Got the safety and alignment done today. Went as smooth as could be. Long line at the MTO but not horrible. Got a few small things to address, but not much. Need to oil the speedometer and cable as it makes a little noise. Not jumpy at all but could use some lube. A little squeak in the steering wheel that I think is the seal at the base. The upper bearing was cleaned and greased and was in good condition so I am confident it's not that. Not bad either, but a litle thing.
One bigger thing that will need to be addressed over the winter is I will have to repaint the front rims again. I guess the pain pooled a little when I redid them and was a little thick. It has started to shrink and crack in a couple spots by the lugs. Only by the lugs though. I will put the caps on for the summer and address it over the winter.
I think I also might bump up the timing a couple degrees. Seems a little boggy and not as smooth to start when warm. I set it at factory of 2.5 BTDC. I think I will bump it up to 5 and see how it performs. I know the slants like a little advance.
So far, no oil leaks and operating temperature nice at the low end of normal. Think I'm going to buy a good new voltage regulator as this one likes to click and bounce around a bit.
One bigger thing that will need to be addressed over the winter is I will have to repaint the front rims again. I guess the pain pooled a little when I redid them and was a little thick. It has started to shrink and crack in a couple spots by the lugs. Only by the lugs though. I will put the caps on for the summer and address it over the winter.
I think I also might bump up the timing a couple degrees. Seems a little boggy and not as smooth to start when warm. I set it at factory of 2.5 BTDC. I think I will bump it up to 5 and see how it performs. I know the slants like a little advance.
So far, no oil leaks and operating temperature nice at the low end of normal. Think I'm going to buy a good new voltage regulator as this one likes to click and bounce around a bit.
abdywgn
dismantler
CONGRATULATIONS!!! glad to hear you and the Dart studied hard, applied yourself and passed your test!
FINE looking machine! please give it a smooth rub on the 1/4 panel for me.
FINE looking machine! please give it a smooth rub on the 1/4 panel for me.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
So, did a little more finishing touches today. Still have some items to address but getting there. Got the car washed today and cleaned the blue off the letters on the tires (that was really bugging the wife...lol). Got teh hub caps cleaned up and installed. Looks much better now.
Also made a set of floor mats for the car. Couldn't find any that I liked the fit of so like it did with my Bug I had I bought a roll of rubber mat material and cut them out. Made them to fully cover the carpet while keeping good clearance to the gas pedal and dimmer as well as the seat belt brackets. Like how they came out. I plan to drive this car, so I'd like to protect the carpet.
Had to advance the timing a little today. Didn't seem to be quite right starting and was a little boggy. Still may need to go more but time will tell. I'm at 7.5 degrees BTDC now. Tried oiling the speedo and the cable a little. The cable would only come out a little and I didn't want to force it and risk damaging it so I oiled it with fine oil. Hopefully it will creep down (sewing machine oil). It seemed a little stiff to turn but not bad. The speedometer turned easy but I still put a couple drops on it. Took it out after and still seems to be a bit of noise. Going to fully disconnect it and pull the cable forward enough to disengage it from the gear in the transmission and go for a short run to confirm I am right with what I am hearing.
Also have a squealing noise coming from the front drivers brake drum intermittently. I have to pull the drum tomorrow and inspect to see if it's hitting the backing plate or if the material is just gone so hard it's glazed over. The shoes were new and not oil covered when I got the car so I went with them.
Also made a set of floor mats for the car. Couldn't find any that I liked the fit of so like it did with my Bug I had I bought a roll of rubber mat material and cut them out. Made them to fully cover the carpet while keeping good clearance to the gas pedal and dimmer as well as the seat belt brackets. Like how they came out. I plan to drive this car, so I'd like to protect the carpet.
Had to advance the timing a little today. Didn't seem to be quite right starting and was a little boggy. Still may need to go more but time will tell. I'm at 7.5 degrees BTDC now. Tried oiling the speedo and the cable a little. The cable would only come out a little and I didn't want to force it and risk damaging it so I oiled it with fine oil. Hopefully it will creep down (sewing machine oil). It seemed a little stiff to turn but not bad. The speedometer turned easy but I still put a couple drops on it. Took it out after and still seems to be a bit of noise. Going to fully disconnect it and pull the cable forward enough to disengage it from the gear in the transmission and go for a short run to confirm I am right with what I am hearing.
Also have a squealing noise coming from the front drivers brake drum intermittently. I have to pull the drum tomorrow and inspect to see if it's hitting the backing plate or if the material is just gone so hard it's glazed over. The shoes were new and not oil covered when I got the car so I went with them.
abdywgn
dismantler
NICE!
is that a corner grocery store?
that is one tall fence your neighbor is putting up.
is that a corner grocery store?
that is one tall fence your neighbor is putting up.
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