Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Not quite sure I follow about the overflow and washer bottle. I don't have washers on my car and the overflow for the rad on mine just drains to ground as it did from the factory. Good luck with your project though
1963 Dart 170 2 Door Post Resto
- Thread starter Mineallmine
- Start date
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Not quite sure I follow about the overflow and washer bottle. I don't have washers on my car and the overflow for the rad on mine just drains to ground as it did from the factory. Good luck with your project though
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Moving right along...slowly, but moving nonetheless. Any progress is progress right?
Got the battery tray all ready for a light sand and paint after soaking it in evaporust overnight. I love this stuff. No scrubbing needed. Have cleaned up most of the hardware this way. Have the brake assembly soaking now. Looking really good thus far.
Also got the wire harness cleaned up and wrapped and partially installed. Props to j par for the tip on the mesh split loom. Looks so much cleaner. Still have to install the clips along the inner fender and run them out to the headlights, but getting there.
Got my NOS ball and trunion rebuild kit today so that's probably going to be on the agenda for the weekend, or early next week. Also need to get some more mig gas to finish the bumper to get it all sent out for chrome.
Almost done the engine bay and underside of the car. Then I can pull the lower front valance for body work and sealer, along with the dash and other trim parts.
Got the battery tray all ready for a light sand and paint after soaking it in evaporust overnight. I love this stuff. No scrubbing needed. Have cleaned up most of the hardware this way. Have the brake assembly soaking now. Looking really good thus far.
Also got the wire harness cleaned up and wrapped and partially installed. Props to j par for the tip on the mesh split loom. Looks so much cleaner. Still have to install the clips along the inner fender and run them out to the headlights, but getting there.
Got my NOS ball and trunion rebuild kit today so that's probably going to be on the agenda for the weekend, or early next week. Also need to get some more mig gas to finish the bumper to get it all sent out for chrome.
Almost done the engine bay and underside of the car. Then I can pull the lower front valance for body work and sealer, along with the dash and other trim parts.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
A bit more progress today. Got the refurbed low tone horn painted and installed. Also got the interior to rear harness rewrapped and installed. Painted and installed the cleaned battery tray and brake pedal assembly. Even got a start on the sound deadener inside. A ways to go but progress is progress right? Love how the color pops in these pictures
On a side note, has anyone else noticed on the firewall sound deadener from DMT that it seems to be missing holes? On the one side I have installed one hole is missing and I think the same on the other, or two.
On a side note, has anyone else noticed on the firewall sound deadener from DMT that it seems to be missing holes? On the one side I have installed one hole is missing and I think the same on the other, or two.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Sound deadener done on the floor. Just have to install the black hushmat on the inside roof panel. Got all the door hardware cleaned up. Just have to add some white lithium grease and reinstall them. Even cleaned up the lock ferrules.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Baby steps...
Got the lock hardware installed and adjusted. Greased up the lock assemblies with Lubriplate 105. Cleaned up one of the rear regulators and channels and greased them as well as the glass channel and channel mounted inside rear seat area for glass. Got the glass cleaned up and installed as well as the lower channels. Will install the glass runs after the car is fully painted.
Got the other regulator soaking in the evaporust overnight. Love how clean it makes everything with minimal effort. Just sucks that now I want everything on the car to look as good. Gotta love OCD...lol. Hope to install the other rear glass tomorrow. Waiting to get the car painted before installing the fronts as the vent glass will interfere with paint.
Got the lock hardware installed and adjusted. Greased up the lock assemblies with Lubriplate 105. Cleaned up one of the rear regulators and channels and greased them as well as the glass channel and channel mounted inside rear seat area for glass. Got the glass cleaned up and installed as well as the lower channels. Will install the glass runs after the car is fully painted.
Got the other regulator soaking in the evaporust overnight. Love how clean it makes everything with minimal effort. Just sucks that now I want everything on the car to look as good. Gotta love OCD...lol. Hope to install the other rear glass tomorrow. Waiting to get the car painted before installing the fronts as the vent glass will interfere with paint.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Got the other rear side glass in this weekend. Unfortunately the small clip for the pin that goes through the glass broke. Odd as it was in great shape. Anyway, guess I have to go find one of those now.
Got at the driveshaft yesterday and today. Cleaned it all up in preparation for paint. Then I decided to rebuild the trunion joint. Dismantled it fairly quickly. The boot was toast as it was torn. The pin looked in great shape and there was no wear in the end joint. Not surprising as this car only shows 65,000 original miles. Then the fun began.
According to the shop manual, if the pin is in good shape you can work the boot over it and through the cup. Got it over the pin ok but there is no way in &@$$ it was going through that cup so off it came again. Onto the press to remove the pin. Just as well as I had a new one in the NOS Mopar rebuild kit. That pin did not want to move. Took a fair bit of force with my 20 ton press to get it out but it came out. Going back in wasn't so bad. Anyway got it all rebuilt and filled with grease and cover replaced. I reused the original straps for the boot as they look better than the straps with the bolt and nut. Finally a nice coat of semi gloss black and let it dry overnight before installing the new u joint in the other end.
That's one more of the bigger jobs left marked off the list. More to come
Got at the driveshaft yesterday and today. Cleaned it all up in preparation for paint. Then I decided to rebuild the trunion joint. Dismantled it fairly quickly. The boot was toast as it was torn. The pin looked in great shape and there was no wear in the end joint. Not surprising as this car only shows 65,000 original miles. Then the fun began.
According to the shop manual, if the pin is in good shape you can work the boot over it and through the cup. Got it over the pin ok but there is no way in &@$$ it was going through that cup so off it came again. Onto the press to remove the pin. Just as well as I had a new one in the NOS Mopar rebuild kit. That pin did not want to move. Took a fair bit of force with my 20 ton press to get it out but it came out. Going back in wasn't so bad. Anyway got it all rebuilt and filled with grease and cover replaced. I reused the original straps for the boot as they look better than the straps with the bolt and nut. Finally a nice coat of semi gloss black and let it dry overnight before installing the new u joint in the other end.
That's one more of the bigger jobs left marked off the list. More to come
abdywgn
dismantler
You do very meticulous work! Thanks for sharing. Bob
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Small update. Got some more welding, grinding and a little sanding done on the front bumper today. Getting close. Just a little more finish work and ready for chrome.
Plan is to get the bumper mounts done and figure out where I'm going to bolt it, then fill the other holes. Not bad for my first try if I do say so.
Plan is to get the bumper mounts done and figure out where I'm going to bolt it, then fill the other holes. Not bad for my first try if I do say so.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Not a real productive week last week. Didn't make much progress the latter half of last week or over the weekend with other obligations keeping me away from things.
Started making the bumper mounts last night. Got one almost finished and the other mostly done. Just have to weld on the mounting tab in the right location on the second and do finish welding and cleanup on the first to make it look nice. Must have taken the bumper off 15-20 times trying to get position and height right. Used the original bumper mounts as a template to start from. Just made them much shorter to keep the bumper tucked in closer to the body (keeping about 1/2" gap to the body).
Like how its coming along. Once these are done I can finish the final welding and cleanup on the bumper and remove it all, send the bumper for chrome, and pull the lower valance for epoxy and body work in prep to do final paint on the entire car. Can't wait.
Started making the bumper mounts last night. Got one almost finished and the other mostly done. Just have to weld on the mounting tab in the right location on the second and do finish welding and cleanup on the first to make it look nice. Must have taken the bumper off 15-20 times trying to get position and height right. Used the original bumper mounts as a template to start from. Just made them much shorter to keep the bumper tucked in closer to the body (keeping about 1/2" gap to the body).
Like how its coming along. Once these are done I can finish the final welding and cleanup on the bumper and remove it all, send the bumper for chrome, and pull the lower valance for epoxy and body work in prep to do final paint on the entire car. Can't wait.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Other bracket done. Final test fit on the bumper. Happy with how it's going. Now to make the other 2 brackets, paint them and do finish work on the bumper and send it for chrome
Clean... nice job
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Trying to keep it simple. I like the clean straight line of this bumper much better.
Got the other 2 bumper brackets started. Fitting really nice. Just have to finish the mounting tabs and weld them on. Then it's just finish welding on the bumper itself (close up 2 holes and cleanup on the middle to make it more even and clean), finish weld the second 2 bumper brackets and paint all 4. Then, finally I can send the bumper for chrome and pull the lower valance for epoxy, body work and paint. Maybe I will still see final color on this car before the end of may (goal is April, but something always seems to come up so trying to keep my goal practical)
Oh, and I will be replacing the bolts on the bottom of the bumper with proper bumper bolts. Just have to file the holes square to fit them. Used existing holes when making the mounts and these lined up really nice to the first set of brackets, also allowing me to have one mount to the bottom and one to the top to minimize flex
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Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Bumper brackets finished. Was even able to curve the mounting tabs to match the shape of the bumper. Got them all welded and cleaned up. Did one more test fit before I pull the bumper to fill the outer bumper brackets holes and clean up the rest. The outer corners flex a little of you push on them but not bad. Still deciding, but I may ask reinforcements inside to make them more rigid. Need to decide soon as I want the bumper sent to chrome as soon as possible to get it back to finish up
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Haven't made much progress on the dart lately. Partly due to shift work, and partly due to being side tracked by a small purchase.
Picked up a Kubota diesel 4x4 lawn tractor for super cheap and have been getting it cleaned up and operational. Got it for $100. Couldn't believe it. Hood was broken in a few pieces and headlights are missing, but all it needed was a new battery, fresh fuel filters and it fired right up. Works great. Spent a couple days doing maintenance on it with an oil change and cleaning it all up. It was sitting in a barn for a couple years. Cleaned up great. Finally finishing up and getting back at the car again.
Really trying to get it on the road early this summer.
Filled the 2 unused holes in the bumper this weekend. Had to do some more welding on the back and a bit more final cleanup but almost ready to send for chrome. Test fit one of the new headlights as well. Going with a newer halogen. These are DOT approved as well so no issues with MTO for inspections. Hope to get the remaining parts sanded by the end of the week, early weekend in prep for epoxy. Then it shouldn't be long before final color.
Picked up a Kubota diesel 4x4 lawn tractor for super cheap and have been getting it cleaned up and operational. Got it for $100. Couldn't believe it. Hood was broken in a few pieces and headlights are missing, but all it needed was a new battery, fresh fuel filters and it fired right up. Works great. Spent a couple days doing maintenance on it with an oil change and cleaning it all up. It was sitting in a barn for a couple years. Cleaned up great. Finally finishing up and getting back at the car again.
Really trying to get it on the road early this summer.
Filled the 2 unused holes in the bumper this weekend. Had to do some more welding on the back and a bit more final cleanup but almost ready to send for chrome. Test fit one of the new headlights as well. Going with a newer halogen. These are DOT approved as well so no issues with MTO for inspections. Hope to get the remaining parts sanded by the end of the week, early weekend in prep for epoxy. Then it shouldn't be long before final color.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Been a bit of a lapse in getting to work on the car lately. I was able to get the bumper finished and packed up and sent to chrome. Got the final bits that were left to be done set up and mostly sanded. (dash, inner side rear panels, and lower valance.) Also pulled the column apart to go over it. Got a full new signal switch from a member on here (quality piece, not china repo) and new seals and coupling. Going to repaint and rebuild it all. Removed the steering wheel and as it had a bunch of cracks and gaps I figured it was time to try my hand at restoring it.
Was originally going to use JB weld to fill the cracks but thought better of it after some research. While many have had great results, some varied. The most common suggestion I found was PC-7 so I ordered some. Sanded the entire wheel by hand (NOT fun) and opened up any cracks I found with my dremel (can't tell you how wrong it felt cutting material away from a wheel I was trying to fix...lol.) to allow the epoxy a place to go.
Taped around the cracks to keep the epoxy from getting everywhere and I'm glad I did. This stuff is thick and super sticky. Had a difficult time getting it into the cracks, but eventually got them all filled (did half one night and the rest last night as it was easier to have a place to hold onto while filling the cracks). I highly recommend using neoprene gloves when doing this. Once it was applied I let it sit for a few hours to tack up and then removed the tape. Taking it off right away made the epoxy want to pull out of the cracks. Letting it sit a bit worked much better. This stage is highly recommended as otherwise you have a huge mess of epoxy to sand/file/grind.
I let it sit overnight to cure and used a couple small jeweler files I had to file the epoxy flush, then sanded it to remove any file marks. Sanding alone I don't think is good as the epoxy is harder than the wheel material. I used a curved flat file and a convex curved file for the different contours and it went really nice.
Not bad for my first try I think. After I'm done the other cracks (and the one in the hub that had a couple low spots I added more material to) it will be ready to spray with epoxy, then paint.
Was originally going to use JB weld to fill the cracks but thought better of it after some research. While many have had great results, some varied. The most common suggestion I found was PC-7 so I ordered some. Sanded the entire wheel by hand (NOT fun) and opened up any cracks I found with my dremel (can't tell you how wrong it felt cutting material away from a wheel I was trying to fix...lol.) to allow the epoxy a place to go.
Taped around the cracks to keep the epoxy from getting everywhere and I'm glad I did. This stuff is thick and super sticky. Had a difficult time getting it into the cracks, but eventually got them all filled (did half one night and the rest last night as it was easier to have a place to hold onto while filling the cracks). I highly recommend using neoprene gloves when doing this. Once it was applied I let it sit for a few hours to tack up and then removed the tape. Taking it off right away made the epoxy want to pull out of the cracks. Letting it sit a bit worked much better. This stage is highly recommended as otherwise you have a huge mess of epoxy to sand/file/grind.
I let it sit overnight to cure and used a couple small jeweler files I had to file the epoxy flush, then sanded it to remove any file marks. Sanding alone I don't think is good as the epoxy is harder than the wheel material. I used a curved flat file and a convex curved file for the different contours and it went really nice.
Not bad for my first try I think. After I'm done the other cracks (and the one in the hub that had a couple low spots I added more material to) it will be ready to spray with epoxy, then paint.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Steering wheel done, ready for epoxy. Discovered a couple more small tips if you plan to tackle this job yourself. After filing the epoxy after one day it's still a little soft and rubber like. Difficult to file perfectly flush. After doing touch ups I found the epoxy gets nice and hard and files really nice. (after second day). I was able to fine tune my filing and am happy with the results. Sorry, no pics yet.
Finished disassembly of the steering column and got most of the dash and lower valance sanded. Should hopefully have them both ready for epoxy in a day or two. Just have to do the hand sanding in the tight corners and a light sand on the inside of the dash. Not planning to paint it but want to take the surface rust off and coat it with epoxy while I'm already at it to protect it from further corrosion.
Have a week and a half off and hoping to get ready or at least really close to ready for final spray.
Finished disassembly of the steering column and got most of the dash and lower valance sanded. Should hopefully have them both ready for epoxy in a day or two. Just have to do the hand sanding in the tight corners and a light sand on the inside of the dash. Not planning to paint it but want to take the surface rust off and coat it with epoxy while I'm already at it to protect it from further corrosion.
Have a week and a half off and hoping to get ready or at least really close to ready for final spray.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Slowly getting there. A few delays but finally got some primer on the steering wheel, small parts and inside of the dash and lower valance. I know they will never get seen but didn't like the surface rust where they were never factory primed, so here we go. Was supposed to have the outside of the dash and lower valance done but life got in the way on friday (as it often does) which pushed me back. Saturday the plan was to prime them just after lunch, but then we had a big storm (only lasted 15 minutes) but as a result 6 houses up had trees down and broken off onto houses, thus causing an 8 hour power outage. Luckily, in my neighborhood anyway, no one was hurt (unfortunately other areas were not do lucky apparently), but as a result, no garage time for me.
Will try again today after work.
Super happy with how the steering wheel is looking. Really looks good for my first try at restoring a steering wheel. Tedious, but wouldn't hesitate to do another now (which is good as my wifes 51 international truck will need it done as well as possible small repairs on my 60 bel air.
I'm off this week, so hoping to get time enough out in the shop to finish the small parts and dash and reinstall the lower valance (after some minor body work) and be ready for final paint by the end of the week. May even see color early the following week if all goes well.
Will try again today after work.
Super happy with how the steering wheel is looking. Really looks good for my first try at restoring a steering wheel. Tedious, but wouldn't hesitate to do another now (which is good as my wifes 51 international truck will need it done as well as possible small repairs on my 60 bel air.
I'm off this week, so hoping to get time enough out in the shop to finish the small parts and dash and reinstall the lower valance (after some minor body work) and be ready for final paint by the end of the week. May even see color early the following week if all goes well.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
And with the power back on I was able to get the outer of the dash and valance epoxied. After work, the plan is to apply a coat of filler to the lower part of the valance to take care of where I had to hammer and dolly it. As usual it was a mess of dents. I swear the previous owner drove by braile. I don't think there was one panel without a small mark of some sort. No rust and was able to pull all to near perfect and only a skim coat of filler at best. Don't believe in filler at all if avoidable.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
And we have color. Tried my small gun for the green inside the lower valance and couldn't get it to set right no matter how I adjusted it. Think my air was set too high. Switched to my bigger new gun and never looked back. It was sooooo easy to set up. Pictures of clear to follow.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
As promised... With clear
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Not much progress as of late. Wife was wanting to get some welding practice (yes, I have a wife that enjoys welding...lol. And she's actually pretty good at it), so we picked up a 4x8 utility trailer to clean up and sell. That was the plan any way. Got it cheap so that was good. After hammering at it a bit the frame was so bad there was noting salvagable on the trailer but the lights, axle, upper rail, and tongue. Fortunately it was cheap enough that the other parts were worth it so we got new metal and completely rebuilt it. Just a few finishing touches and its out the door.
Got a few more parts for the Dart too. Had a rear side glass clip break on me during install. I soaked it in evaporust to clean it up and as soon as I tried to install it it snapped. It wasn't rusty before so I am wondering if evaporust makes spring steel brittle. The same happened to the hood spring. Either way, I needed a new one and discovered quickly that this clip was only used on the 2 door sedan. Could not find one. Then I found some type B circlips on an RC car website that looked the same so I took a chance and ordered them. Wound up being exact matches. Got that installed last night.
Got the lower valance installed and adjusted. Just have to tighten up a couple more bolts, add a few of the small freshly painted brackets and then it's ready outside for final sand and color. I think I am going to reassemble most of the dash area before final paint so that 1, Less chance of scratching my freshly painted car and 2, frees up a lot of currently used floor space. Still hoping to have it done by the end of July.
Got my billet gas cap ordered as well. Not interested in doing all this work only to have fuel spill all over the side of my freshly painted car.
Also got my custom front bumper back from chrome. All I can say is WOW! They did an amazing job. Had a couple of minor imperfections that they took care of before chrome and it is beautiful. No waves in the finish at all. You can't tell where it was cut and joined or where I filled in the bolt holes without looking at the back. That and they got it back to me faster than promised. Told me 5 - 6 weeks (which is WAY better than the 10 months to a year and a half every shop up here told me) and got it back in my possession in about 4. Would highly recommend them. Super nice to deal with. It was done by tri city plating in Elizabethton, TN. Pictures don't do it justice.
Can't wait to get the car painted now and see it installed against the nice new green paint. More to come
Got a few more parts for the Dart too. Had a rear side glass clip break on me during install. I soaked it in evaporust to clean it up and as soon as I tried to install it it snapped. It wasn't rusty before so I am wondering if evaporust makes spring steel brittle. The same happened to the hood spring. Either way, I needed a new one and discovered quickly that this clip was only used on the 2 door sedan. Could not find one. Then I found some type B circlips on an RC car website that looked the same so I took a chance and ordered them. Wound up being exact matches. Got that installed last night.
Got the lower valance installed and adjusted. Just have to tighten up a couple more bolts, add a few of the small freshly painted brackets and then it's ready outside for final sand and color. I think I am going to reassemble most of the dash area before final paint so that 1, Less chance of scratching my freshly painted car and 2, frees up a lot of currently used floor space. Still hoping to have it done by the end of July.
Got my billet gas cap ordered as well. Not interested in doing all this work only to have fuel spill all over the side of my freshly painted car.
Also got my custom front bumper back from chrome. All I can say is WOW! They did an amazing job. Had a couple of minor imperfections that they took care of before chrome and it is beautiful. No waves in the finish at all. You can't tell where it was cut and joined or where I filled in the bolt holes without looking at the back. That and they got it back to me faster than promised. Told me 5 - 6 weeks (which is WAY better than the 10 months to a year and a half every shop up here told me) and got it back in my possession in about 4. Would highly recommend them. Super nice to deal with. It was done by tri city plating in Elizabethton, TN. Pictures don't do it justice.
Can't wait to get the car painted now and see it installed against the nice new green paint. More to come
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
So, finally finished the trailer project with the wife and starting to get back at the dart. Got the sound deadener on the floor finished and all seams taped. Got the firewall insulation installed (discovered that there was 2 holes, one in each panel that were not drilled. It was a pain measuring and marking to drill them right but came out pretty good). Installed the passenger heater box. got the final cables run through the firewall and preparing to install the wiper linkages.
Then finally can install the dash. After that I will put in the drivers vent box. From what I remember it will be easier this way as with it out I can access the shifter cables better to attach and reinstall them on the push button assembly.
One question I have is that there was a fabric type material at each point where the dash bolted to the lower window frame. I'm assuming it it to keep it from rattling and squeaking. Does anyone know what the material is or a good substitute? I was considering using something like hockey tape, the material type. Would this be good or does anyone have a better suggestion? Thanks.
More pictures soon.
Then finally can install the dash. After that I will put in the drivers vent box. From what I remember it will be easier this way as with it out I can access the shifter cables better to attach and reinstall them on the push button assembly.
One question I have is that there was a fabric type material at each point where the dash bolted to the lower window frame. I'm assuming it it to keep it from rattling and squeaking. Does anyone know what the material is or a good substitute? I was considering using something like hockey tape, the material type. Would this be good or does anyone have a better suggestion? Thanks.
More pictures soon.
Cool Stuff.
I just realized by looking through some of your pictures that the Doors on the '63 appear to be different from the 64-up Models - At least on yours where the latches are. They look like the latches on my '62 Valiants.
Have fun with the assembly.
I just realized by looking through some of your pictures that the Doors on the '63 appear to be different from the 64-up Models - At least on yours where the latches are. They look like the latches on my '62 Valiants.
Have fun with the assembly.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
i've used the 'soft' half of self adhesive velcro (hook and loop) between panels with good success in the past.
neil.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
So, got a little more done. Not much, but progress is progress right?
Go the hand brake handle installed with the exception of the dash mount. Installed the wiper pivots and linkages. Keep getting held up by little things along the way. Soaking all the hardware in evaporust so everything looks new. Will never get seen but with everything else looking new I can't bring myself to install a rusty bolt or nut when I know I don't need to, lol. Also had an issue with the butyl strips that came with the rebuild kit. Couldn't for the life of me get the plastic to come off. Tried warm, cold, and even frozen with no luck, so I just ordered a roll on line. It was thicker but figured it would seal better anyway and squeeze out the excess.
Had my wife come out and help me do final alignment on the doors. Had them done but it was bugging me with the very slight misalignment of the body line. You could barely see it but it was there, so my OCD won out and we adjusted them. Drivers looks great. Passenger is as close as it's going to get. Body lines are good but there's a very slight difference in the contour of the panel. Barely noticeable and once painted I don't think it'll matter. Only way to make it perfect is a pile of filler and I'm not doing that at this stage. Besides probably only me and my OCD will see it anyway...lol
Also started getting the dash ready to go back in. Got the heater ducts installed and started prepping the wiring harness for reinstall to the dash. Cleaned it up a bit. Disassembled the push button assembly and have it soaking overnight to clean it all up. Will lube it up today and possibly install the dash later today or tomorrow. Then I can add some fluids and possibly fire it up again for the first time since going over everything.
I think after this it will be install the splash shields back in under the fenders and do final prep for paint.
Go the hand brake handle installed with the exception of the dash mount. Installed the wiper pivots and linkages. Keep getting held up by little things along the way. Soaking all the hardware in evaporust so everything looks new. Will never get seen but with everything else looking new I can't bring myself to install a rusty bolt or nut when I know I don't need to, lol. Also had an issue with the butyl strips that came with the rebuild kit. Couldn't for the life of me get the plastic to come off. Tried warm, cold, and even frozen with no luck, so I just ordered a roll on line. It was thicker but figured it would seal better anyway and squeeze out the excess.
Had my wife come out and help me do final alignment on the doors. Had them done but it was bugging me with the very slight misalignment of the body line. You could barely see it but it was there, so my OCD won out and we adjusted them. Drivers looks great. Passenger is as close as it's going to get. Body lines are good but there's a very slight difference in the contour of the panel. Barely noticeable and once painted I don't think it'll matter. Only way to make it perfect is a pile of filler and I'm not doing that at this stage. Besides probably only me and my OCD will see it anyway...lol
Also started getting the dash ready to go back in. Got the heater ducts installed and started prepping the wiring harness for reinstall to the dash. Cleaned it up a bit. Disassembled the push button assembly and have it soaking overnight to clean it all up. Will lube it up today and possibly install the dash later today or tomorrow. Then I can add some fluids and possibly fire it up again for the first time since going over everything.
I think after this it will be install the splash shields back in under the fenders and do final prep for paint.
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