1963 Valiant V200 Wagon

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thanks aaron. i ordered a few por-15 kits that come with the cleaner, metel prep and paint. so hopefully that will work. i think i will try the sandblasting this weekend. that should help get those spots that are hard to get to also. once its all stripped and the rust is painted over. im gonna paint the engine bay the original light blue.
 
The POR 15 is good stuff, as long as you do the prep properly. I used an rust neutralising chemical called Phix, but other brands work just fine too, such as Metal Prep, sold at body shop supply houses. A good etching primer would be a good idea too, and is even available in spray cans now, if a spray gun isn't available.
I think Marine Clean is similar in composition to Simple Green, Castol Super Clean or on of the "purple" cleaners sold at Wal-mart that do a good job too.
I'd upgrade the master cylinder to a twin chamber model,even if the rest of the brake system stays stock for now. Just for the piece of mind, and easier to do with the motor out.
It looks like you are off to a good start, keep us posted.
Alan627b
 
Hey Slant Scamp,nice wagon,I'm driving a 1968 dodge polara wagon while I'm gathering parts for my 1964 dart gt.keep up the good work ...mrmopar1966
 
thanks for the kind words and advice. i plan on running a dual master cylinder for drum brakes. that will be my next project once the engine compartment is painted.
 
slantscamp said:
here is my wiring i need to fix. all i want to know is why do people use wire nuts in cars. and if you are going to take the time to "fix" something. why do it half *** with bare wire exposed just asking to be shorted out. ugh!!!!
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Coulda been a lot worse. I have a buddy that bought a Chevy LUV truck with a blown 350 in it, custom paint, big wing on struts in the bed, wide wide tires, really a good looking street/show ride. Starting digging into it and found the previous owner had done some wiring using old LAMP CORD from his house! Can't you just hear the guys wife? "Honey, do you know what happened to the extension cord? And why's your truck on fire?"
Chevy people - what you gonna do?
 
this had lamp cord too! with the little in-line switch that you click on. it was under the dash to wire up some aftermarket speakers. what do these people do, just scrounge around the house and steal wire from whatever they can.
 
slantscamp said:
this had lamp cord too! with the little in-line switch that you click on. it was under the dash to wire up some aftermarket speakers. what do these people do, just scrounge around the house and steal wire from whatever they can.
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Pretty much! Hang in there, keep going & don't dwell over all the wierd sh*t people have done to this poor gal. You'll get her back in condition soon enough.
 
thanks ben. i just wish i had more time to work on it. the weekend goes by so fast. it wont be so bad once i get to start driving it around.
 
slantscamp said:
thanks for the kind words and advice. i plan on running a dual master cylinder for drum brakes. that will be my next project once the engine compartment is painted.
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Might I suggest that you work on the master and lines before paint. Just in case you spill some fluid on your brand new paint. That and the fab work at the drivers side frame area where the brake T is.
 
good idea on the brakes. can i purchase a new master cylinder. i know i can get rebuilt ones all day. but i want a new one. i have had to change out the rebuilt ones too many times.
 
64dartwagon said:
Might I suggest that you work on the master and lines before paint. Just in case you spill some fluid on your brand new paint. That and the fab work at the drivers side frame area where the brake T is.
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Good advice 63dartwagon, I will keep that in mind too.:thumbrig:
 
I used a master from a early 70's full size wagon with disc brakes, 4bolt mount, and a large piston size. I paid $35 for it new. I looked in the back of the book at the master pic and diagrams till I found the correct mounting pattern, piston size, and for me disc up front and drum out back.

This would be a good time to adapt to the newer aluminum master. Pick up a adapter and new master together for around $100. And after install make sure you don't have play between the brake rod and the back of the piston. If you do you might have to get an adjustable brake rod.
 
i was thinking about going with that set up. but i read that they were for a disc/drum setup. and i am keeping drums all around for now. i was just going to run a drum/drum master cylinder off a 67 dart. its the four bolt pattern, so it should just bolt up. im gonna try to pick one up tomorrow so i can start fabbing up brake lines. i also need to go to the junkyard to get a drum drum distribution block since mine is missing. luckily there is a 63 dart down there. i ended up getting the wrong sand today. too big. so it wouldnt work with the sand blaster. but i did get some more rusty metal cleaned up. my girlfriends dad said since its just surface rust i could prime and paint it and it would be fine. but i would rather por-15 it first just because i would feel better about it.
 
oh, here is that master cylinder.

mc11323big_large.jpg
 
well i did some sandblasting today. i think one more bag and i should be ready for por-15 and primer. i also ordered a bunch of stuff i needed today. tranny rebuild kit, kickdown linkage kit, electronic ignition parts, and brake lines. oh and a master cylinder. hopefully everything comes in soon.

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P8101519.jpg
 
looks good keep us posted,,,, good luck,,,may i suggest clean out the entire brake system and use DOT 5 wont take the paint off if its spilled or blow a line,,,
 
thanks for the tips. im gonna be running new brake lines anyway, so it would be a good time to switch over to dot 5.
 
woohoo! my headers and por 15 came in today. gonna order my cam tomorrow. tried to take my motor to the machine shop today, but they were closed for the week. ugh! oh well. i can take it next week. im gonna order an erson cam. there is a group buy on slantsix.org. $252 for cam, lifters, double springs, and retainers. does that sound like a good deal. im just going with a street friendly cam, rpm range from 1,000 to 4,000
 
Sounds like a good streetable cam. Looks good in the engine bay. Glad to see that car went to a good home.
 
slantscamp said:
woohoo! my headers and por 15 came in today. gonna order my cam tomorrow. tried to take my motor to the machine shop today, but they were closed for the week. ugh! oh well. i can take it next week. im gonna order an erson cam. there is a group buy on slantsix.org. $252 for cam, lifters, double springs, and retainers. does that sound like a good deal. im just going with a street friendly cam, rpm range from 1,000 to 4,000
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That makes me want to jump in on that deal but am wondering if it is a little premature right now. BTW: Great work on the wagon!
 
redfastback said:
Sounds like a good streetable cam. Looks good in the engine bay. Glad to see that car went to a good home.
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I would like to second that, slantscamp is moving right along and doing great work too, I did not know about dot 5. wow I leaned two things today.
 
yes the wagon is very loved by its new family. finally getting the attention that it deserves. plus i want a trophy from the mopar alley car show next year. you have some competition in the wagon class steve!
 
DOT 5 brake fluid,,, i have ben running it for 13 years or more in my b cuda,, in order to use it you must flush out the old junk,,

the pluses with DOT 5 ( silicone ) it doesnt attract moisture,,wont rot out your brake lines from the inside out,,thats is very common on collector cars not driven every day,,,

and it the master or a line blows,., it wont take your paint off ,,regular DOT 3 OR 4 WILL TAKE THE PAINT OFF,,, but DOT 5 is a litle higher in cost,,worth it in my opinion,,
 
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