1964 Valiant Slant 6 to 318 Conversion ?

[cz619]

Here's some motor mount brackets for an early A for sale on here too. If the rubber insulator part of the slant 6 motor mounts you have now are good, you can reuse them with the brackets below.

[FOR SALE] - 63-66 273 Motor Mounts

Thanks for replying I'm wondering would this fit a later year 318 to my slant 6 k frame without any issue ? That's been my concern.

Also with this exhaust manifold does it fit a later year year 318 without fitment issues ?

 

[Professor Fate]

The mounts will bolt right up to your 318.
The manifolds, however, may not- it depends on what year your "later year" 318 is. If it has the air injection holes below the exhaust ports, those need to be drilled, tapped and plugged. Anything approximately 1973 ish or later is going to have the extended exhaust pads below the ports for air injection, whether they are drilled for it or not. These will interfere with the fit of the driver's side manifold at the #7 exhaust port, requiring some grinding of the lower exhaust pad to get the manifold to fit flush. Go slow- test fit, grind a LITTLE, test fit again, repeat. Don't go hog wild here, you could break through. Don't grind the exhaust manifold either, it's a thin casting and you don't want it to crack later on. A nice thick exhaust gasket can help with the clearances here to minimize the amount of material you'll have to remove.
If your 318 is a pre '73 ish unit with smaller exhaust port pads, the manifolds bolt right on.
If your 318 is from a truck, you'll need to change to a passenger car oil pan, pickup tube, and dipstick.
You'll need the '66 and earlier V8 cable throttle pedal assembly, too.
And probably the V8 centerlink.

 

[cz619]

The mounts will bolt right up to your 318.
The manifolds, however, may not- it depends on what year your "later year" 318 is. If it has the air injection holes below the exhaust ports, those need to be drilled, tapped and plugged. Anything approximately 1973 ish or later is going to have the extended exhaust pads below the ports for air injection, whether they are drilled for it or not. These will interfere with the fit of the driver's side manifold at the #7 exhaust port, requiring some grinding of the lower exhaust pad to get the manifold to fit flush. Go slow- test fit, grind a LITTLE, test fit again, repeat. Don't go hog wild here, you could break through. Don't grind the exhaust manifold either, it's a thin casting and you don't want it to crack later on. A nice thick exhaust gasket can help with the clearances here to minimize the amount of material you'll have to remove.
If your 318 is a pre '73 ish unit with smaller exhaust port pads, the manifolds bolt right on.
If your 318 is from a truck, you'll need to change to a passenger car oil pan, pickup tube, and dipstick.
You'll need the '66 and earlier V8 cable throttle pedal assembly, too.
And probably the V8 centerlink.

so the mounts that he linked are the ones to get ? or is their other options for that.
and as for the year ill find out later today.

thanks for the info on that with the manifolds thats what iwas concerd about.

i figure all the linkage would have come from that. and im still working on the centerlink

 

[JDMopar]

Just be sure to make the drivers side exhaust manifold fit while the engine is still out of the car. Much easier to see what is needed. The mount brackets in the link to Jake's ad are factory V8 mounts for a 64-66 A body. I don't know if aftermarket mounts for a 273/318 are produced. Schumaker made mounts to bolt in a 340/360, which has slightly different ears on 1 side of the block. You can buy an aftermarket dropped center link, but they cost out the ying yang! Someone on here may have one they would be willing to part with, so just keep an eye open.