BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
As I install the new canvas top, I'm adding some tips to help others. Not sure I'm doing it perfect, just going by scraps of info I found. A Motortrend video of a 1967 B-body appears closest to my car. Mine is much different than the generic manual which came in the kit.
The top only staples to the header bow and the rear bow. It floats on the felt strips of the two middle bows and there is no flap underneath to secure it to them. The side pads do staple to the two middle bows, on short tack strips (1/2" wide, 1/4" thick) at each end. The channel in the rear bow is very deep so I had to use two lengths of 1/2" wide plastic tack strip. I had to buy it separately (10 ft long) since only one 1/2" tack strip in the kit, plus two wide thin tack strips which I don't find anywhere to use. I bought an Arrow T50 pneumo stapler and 3/8" long stainless staples on Amazon. The stapler came with 3 sizes of steel staples. I used the 1/2" long ones to secure the first tack strip to the rear bow, penetrating into the steel inner channel, since how I found it in the old tack strip. I also used E6000 adhesive. I also used 1/2" long to staple the 2nd layer of tack strip to the first. I used only the 3/8"L SS staples to secure the new side pads. The side pads hang 1" past the 2nd bow's bolt-on "end fingers". That was based on the impressions left on the underside of the OE pads.
Years ago, I cleaned rust from the parts. The header bow had a few rust-thrus (one visible) and the front weatherstrip rail was rusted almost thru in one section (typical) so I welded galv sheet across the missing rusted part (seen in photo). I had de-rusted using wire brushes and soaking for days in rags wet with phosphoric acid, some stuffed in the header cavities. The aluminum parts I used Zn-Cr rattle-can primer from NAPA, though strangely the MSDS didn't list Zn-Cr. It is said best for aluminum. I then painted white since will look best and some owners say their conv frame was white. I took all the pivots apart (knock out roll pins, bought special set of tools) to free the steel pivots. I reassembled using nylon washers (McMaster-Carr) instead of the factory wavy steel washers (exc. a few which were fine). I used anti-seize on new stainless roll-pins. Many of the sheet-metal steel screws which secured the weatherstrip channels broke off in the holes. I got all out with pliers, then drilled and tapped the holes for 10-24 stainless screws (plus anti-seize).
The photos showed how I attached the well liner. I re-used the existing even though some cuts were questionable (new cost ~$230). Most say it should just glue to the rear seat cross-brace, but I added an aluminum C-channel to flatten it and help hold down, using two 1/4-20 SS bolts 3/4"L w/ SS locknuts in two existing top holes. I used 3M trim tape at the corner, partly as strain relief, and PL1 polyurethane construction adhesive (caulk tube) on the top. I had to drill outer holes for sheet-metal screws to keep the ends of the channel tight. I suspect the seams originally would have sat at the ends of that channel and the well liner shrunk, but didn't want to pull it too tight and risk tearing. I had an electric heater running in the trunk to keep the vinyl soft. The cut sections didn't align well with body parts, perhaps from shrinkage, so I just glued as best I match it. My car had the two rubber drain hoses to body grommets below, but the well liner didn't have matching holes which also have little brass funnels or such. I won't try to plumb that, rather count on just using a towel if any water collects in the well.
On masking tape, I marked the many holes along the rear body lip, distinguishing those for the chrome trim from the others by color. When gluing the well liner to the top w/ E6000, I used a self-tapping screw in every hole (photo) until the glue set. A layer for the rear curtain (window) will go atop that, and another layer of the main top at the sides, before the chrome trim secures it. It seems my car didn't have a separate strip which the chrome clips to, as in the 1967 video. I think the main top is glued to the rear curtain where they overlap. I'll update when I attach the two top parts.
The top only staples to the header bow and the rear bow. It floats on the felt strips of the two middle bows and there is no flap underneath to secure it to them. The side pads do staple to the two middle bows, on short tack strips (1/2" wide, 1/4" thick) at each end. The channel in the rear bow is very deep so I had to use two lengths of 1/2" wide plastic tack strip. I had to buy it separately (10 ft long) since only one 1/2" tack strip in the kit, plus two wide thin tack strips which I don't find anywhere to use. I bought an Arrow T50 pneumo stapler and 3/8" long stainless staples on Amazon. The stapler came with 3 sizes of steel staples. I used the 1/2" long ones to secure the first tack strip to the rear bow, penetrating into the steel inner channel, since how I found it in the old tack strip. I also used E6000 adhesive. I also used 1/2" long to staple the 2nd layer of tack strip to the first. I used only the 3/8"L SS staples to secure the new side pads. The side pads hang 1" past the 2nd bow's bolt-on "end fingers". That was based on the impressions left on the underside of the OE pads.
Years ago, I cleaned rust from the parts. The header bow had a few rust-thrus (one visible) and the front weatherstrip rail was rusted almost thru in one section (typical) so I welded galv sheet across the missing rusted part (seen in photo). I had de-rusted using wire brushes and soaking for days in rags wet with phosphoric acid, some stuffed in the header cavities. The aluminum parts I used Zn-Cr rattle-can primer from NAPA, though strangely the MSDS didn't list Zn-Cr. It is said best for aluminum. I then painted white since will look best and some owners say their conv frame was white. I took all the pivots apart (knock out roll pins, bought special set of tools) to free the steel pivots. I reassembled using nylon washers (McMaster-Carr) instead of the factory wavy steel washers (exc. a few which were fine). I used anti-seize on new stainless roll-pins. Many of the sheet-metal steel screws which secured the weatherstrip channels broke off in the holes. I got all out with pliers, then drilled and tapped the holes for 10-24 stainless screws (plus anti-seize).
The photos showed how I attached the well liner. I re-used the existing even though some cuts were questionable (new cost ~$230). Most say it should just glue to the rear seat cross-brace, but I added an aluminum C-channel to flatten it and help hold down, using two 1/4-20 SS bolts 3/4"L w/ SS locknuts in two existing top holes. I used 3M trim tape at the corner, partly as strain relief, and PL1 polyurethane construction adhesive (caulk tube) on the top. I had to drill outer holes for sheet-metal screws to keep the ends of the channel tight. I suspect the seams originally would have sat at the ends of that channel and the well liner shrunk, but didn't want to pull it too tight and risk tearing. I had an electric heater running in the trunk to keep the vinyl soft. The cut sections didn't align well with body parts, perhaps from shrinkage, so I just glued as best I match it. My car had the two rubber drain hoses to body grommets below, but the well liner didn't have matching holes which also have little brass funnels or such. I won't try to plumb that, rather count on just using a towel if any water collects in the well.
On masking tape, I marked the many holes along the rear body lip, distinguishing those for the chrome trim from the others by color. When gluing the well liner to the top w/ E6000, I used a self-tapping screw in every hole (photo) until the glue set. A layer for the rear curtain (window) will go atop that, and another layer of the main top at the sides, before the chrome trim secures it. It seems my car didn't have a separate strip which the chrome clips to, as in the 1967 video. I think the main top is glued to the rear curtain where they overlap. I'll update when I attach the two top parts.
