64whiteghost
Well-Known Member
Whats up guys. What do i need to make my 1965 A body 4 speed a slip yoke ?
See attached fotos
See attached fotos
1965 A body 4 speed ball and trunion to Slip yoke ?
- Thread starter 64whiteghost
- Start date
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Inertia
Well-Known Member
An A-body tailshaft housing and tail shaft .
Suitable driveshaft.
Suitable driveshaft.
64whiteghost
Well-Known Member
Damm. Ok. Do they sell the tail shafts aftermarket ?
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I picked up a used set, place an ad in "wanted", a member may be able to help, or Brewers/Passion.
Good luck .
Good luck .
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I'll add there are 2 different diameter output shaft/housing, smaller/older, newer/bigger, and driveshaft yokes to match, so be aware.
Just posing the question. Why do you want to change it? Do you somehow think the slip yoke is better or stronger? The ball and trunnion setup is actually arguably stronger. Remember, Race Hemis and Max Wedges had them.
64whiteghost
Well-Known Member
That was gona be my next question. My buddy that is doing my port and polishing for my 340 that we are gona get 450hp out of recommended it. But i guess i need suggestions on whether its really needed ?
From a strength standpoint, no, it's not needed.
64whiteghost
Well-Known Member
Ok. The other reason was because im doing an 8 3/4. And i need to get a custom driveshaft made. I figured that was why.
You can do it either way. With or without the ball and trunnion. Considering the transmission mods, I'd leave it ball and trunnion. Then you'll only have to essentially change one end of the drive shaft and not mess with the transmission at all. Just one peon's opinion.
64whiteghost
Well-Known Member
So i can make the rear end side a slip yoke and leave the transmission side ball and trunion?
No. No need for that. The ball and trunnion acts the same as a slip yoke. It slides in and out too.
64whiteghost
Well-Known Member
Ahh ok. Well im going to just leave it as is and see what develops. Its gona be a weekend warrior. If somethinf happens. Then ill think of changing it. But for now ill leave it.
Thank you for your help
Beams
Well-Known Member
You can have a conversion driveshaft made. It’s detailed here: Early Valiant Barracuda Club - ball and trunion U-joint conversion
I recently had one made at Driveline Service of Fresno. Big Mike is the guy to talk to. Mopar guy, and knows exactly what needs to be done. I’m sure you could find someone for local, but this shop was great. Offered to ship mine to me, too.
I recently had one made at Driveline Service of Fresno. Big Mike is the guy to talk to. Mopar guy, and knows exactly what needs to be done. I’m sure you could find someone for local, but this shop was great. Offered to ship mine to me, too.
Those are nice and all, but why?
Beams
Well-Known Member
Cuz it’s nice and shiny?
In my case, I didn’t have a ball and trunion driveshaft to start with. Sounded like OP needed to modify, or needed a custom driveshaft anyway.
If I had one that worked with little-to-no modification, I most likely would have used it.
Not having one is certainly reason enough. What I was getting at is if he has a ball and trunnion and it is good or in serviceable condition, that's his easiest and most economical way. I do agree what you pictured is a nice option.
64whiteghost
Well-Known Member
The driveshaft i have is from a 6cyl automatic. Do you think the drive shaft will withold the power I am going to put on it ?
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
it'll hold as much as it can until it can't.
i built mine out on the 64 like the one @Beams did. it started as a /6 car and the BnT was straight clapped, and at the time those were difficult to find, the rebuild was expensive and the shaft was an unknown player in the game. i also wanted the ability to repair it easily and economically should something happen.
part of the consideration should be can you the rear yoke on the drive shaft with the rear end you're installing? because if you can't, basically you'll be building a new shaft anyway.
anayway, if i were in the same situation more than likely i'd go that route again rather than swapping out the tail shaft & housing.
Good reason. But I was in the same boat as the O.E. was bent do to being moved with a fork lift before I got it.
FYI the flange is a different size between the 6 and 8 cylinder cars.
Yup.
The FLANGE is, not the actual joint itself. They take the same rebuild kit.
If you're really gonna pour the coals to it, look at post #20. That's actually 4x4 stuff, but works well. You seem kinda spooked by the ball and trunnion anyway. I kinda caint blame you. It's somewhat archaic. You'll have actual U joints that you can find locally when you need them.
Whatever you do, don't lose the original 65 gearset with its 3.09 low gear. With street rear gears, the difference between the 3.09 and the 2.66 will amaze you. But not in a good way.
BTW, those 65 gears will fit in a later trans. That's what I have, after driving for a couple of years with a later trans and its original 2.66 low gear. With that trans and 3.23 rear gears, it was an absolute dog off the line. Fortunately, I saved the original 65 gears and they are what's in the car now.
BTW, those 65 gears will fit in a later trans. That's what I have, after driving for a couple of years with a later trans and its original 2.66 low gear. With that trans and 3.23 rear gears, it was an absolute dog off the line. Fortunately, I saved the original 65 gears and they are what's in the car now.
They ran b & t on the max wedge. No issue.
I had to have a "conversion "d s made for a 64 Belvedere as the oe one was trashed due to the POrunning it without the balls! $500
I had to have a "conversion "d s made for a 64 Belvedere as the oe one was trashed due to the POrunning it without the balls! $500
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