I have a stuck neutral safety switch that seems to be cause of a major oil leak. With my exhaust routing, I've been putting off replacing the NSS as long as I can but the leak has gotten so bad that I don't want to park in anyone's driveway.
I know that I can get replacement 1-post switches but they're pricey. I've been reading up on this and there are several topics about converting to the 3-prong style. Some say it won't work because the rooster comb is different while others report that they've done the conversion and the newer NSS works fine.
My understanding is that there were basically 5 styles of switches:
Some questions:
I know that I can get replacement 1-post switches but they're pricey. I've been reading up on this and there are several topics about converting to the 3-prong style. Some say it won't work because the rooster comb is different while others report that they've done the conversion and the newer NSS works fine.
My understanding is that there were basically 5 styles of switches:
- up to 1964, single post, (CTS CT97898, Mopar 1704283, 1704100)
- 1965 to 1968, single post (CTS CT9720; Mopar 2889472, 2495537, 2586994, 2496133, 3004087)
- 1969 to 1970, 3 prong, long (SMP NS11)
- 1971 to 1979, 3 prong, long (SMP NS11)
- 1980 & newer, 3 prong, short (SMP NS240)
Some questions:
- Has anyone tried retrofitting a 1965 to 1968 TorqueFlite with a 3-prong switch and found that it did NOT work?
- Does the SMP NS11 come with gasket?
- Rock Auto also shows WVE 1S4937 as an alternative PN for 2889472. Has anyone tried this switch?
