slantsixdan
=..=
No, that's one reason why these cars all leaked water. :-(
1965 Dodge Dart Charger
- Thread starter 65dartcharger
- Start date
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No, that's one reason why these cars all leaked water. :-(
robjkc
Well-Known Member
I've been researching this as well. Here's a 1964 Chrysler video that explains some of this. It appears they use sealer when putting back in the glass. Look at the 13:00 minute mark.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bY4kgO8cyDU"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bY4kgO8cyDU[/ame]
Here's another video from 1975 that goes more into depth about sealing the windshield:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xa-i_u0v34I"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xa-i_u0v34I[/ame]
This is also a good discussion on this forum about sealing the windshield:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=145317
Thanks Dan and robjkc for the invaluable information.
Today I was able to borrow my buddy Johans trunk divider. It consists of a cardboard painted black on one side. Repops are just black on both sides!
Today I was able to borrow my buddy Johans trunk divider. It consists of a cardboard painted black on one side. Repops are just black on both sides!
We had a Windsor built 66 Valiant V200 two door sedan new. Same car was rebadged as a Dart 170 for the U.S. Long story short, this car was returned to the dealer SEVEN times for water leaks. And they claimed to have fixed a different leak each time.
Kevin!
I think you are right. I did some searching today at the local shops but no luck. Not even close! :banghead:
However after going through Johans trunk divider I found evidence of how it was placed on the car. When you popped the trunk you should see the black area behind the seat. The reason for knowing that is that on the pictures you can see the marks after the crossed bar behind the seat.
On the not painted area is marks after the seat spring going vertically.
Kevin! The way the trunk divider was placed might have been different between the assembly plants?
Do you have a close up of the two sides Alf? I always thought it was Masonite, smooth on the painted side and a criss-cross pattern on the tan side. tmm
tmm!
Here you go! As you can see the black side is smooth and the not painted side has a special pattern just like the pad underside the package tray!
BTW,Merry Christmas to allwho has followed this thread through the years.
Merry Christmas!
Thanks for posting this interesting build, I've enjoyed & have learned a lot about from it.
Thanks for posting this interesting build, I've enjoyed & have learned a lot about from it.
Good to hear! I've learned alot from this resto as well!
Does anyone has a Los Angeles built Dart with the package tray and the trunk divider still in place? I want to compare to these ones I have for reference. But since they are from a Dart built in Detroit I want to check so there isn't any differencies.
Thanks FABO
The picture shows an NOS console plate that Mitchell Motors has for sale on Ebay. As you can see there is some areas that is painted some sort of silver. Anyone that knows the name on this silver color?
Thanks FABO!
Thanks FABO!
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
Ulf, not sure of the color name but I believe it should math the silver on your gauge bezels. The paint my dad used on his 66 matched the color on his console, would make sense to me it would match cause it's the only silver paint inside the car. Maybe you could get some paint from the place that restored your dash bezels? I know the paint should not be shiny but a little dull.
That is a nice top plate, hate to see how much that baby is listed at.....
slantsixdan
=..=
I'm not 100% certain, but I think it is probably PPG 31603 "Sparkle Silver Poly" gloss finish (also used on interior rearview mirror back and bracket, and sunvisor arms and brackets -- not used on instrument panel).
I think SlantSixDan might be correct (again)
http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/chipdisplay.cgi?year=1965&manuf=Chrysler&smodel=Chrysler&info=yes&page=4
http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/chipdisplay.cgi?year=1965&manuf=Chrysler&smodel=Chrysler&info=yes&page=4
Thanks Dan for sharing your knowledge! Your info will for certain speed up the job!
Thanks SSVDP for sharing the paint chips! I forgot about the paint chips until you showed it to me. I thought that I didn't had any help from the paint chips codes any more but I was wrong! Thanks to your and Dans info I will stop by at the local PPG dealer and order 1 litre of paint.
As always I really appriciate all the help I have recieved over the years. It has been a tremendous help. I couldnot has come so far if it wasn't for all the help I have recieved fromyou FABO members worldwide. BIG thanks!
Thanks SSVDP for sharing the paint chips! I forgot about the paint chips until you showed it to me. I thought that I didn't had any help from the paint chips codes any more but I was wrong! Thanks to your and Dans info I will stop by at the local PPG dealer and order 1 litre of paint.
As always I really appriciate all the help I have recieved over the years. It has been a tremendous help. I couldnot has come so far if it wasn't for all the help I have recieved fromyou FABO members worldwide. BIG thanks!
It's time to start think of the work to get the NOS battery in working condition.
First of all I wonder if I should keep the paper decals that is applayed on the battery? There was no decals on the assembly line battery but at the same time the battery is a time capsule for sure. I would feel strange to ruin that. I'm not sure how to proceed with this. It's even date coded August of 1964!!
Any input out there?
First of all I wonder if I should keep the paper decals that is applayed on the battery? There was no decals on the assembly line battery but at the same time the battery is a time capsule for sure. I would feel strange to ruin that. I'm not sure how to proceed with this. It's even date coded August of 1964!!
Any input out there?
slantsixdan
=..=
Wow, a NOS battery -- cool! I will be interested to learn if you are able to bring it to working condition.
I would take very well (evenly) lit, very straight-on, very high-quality photos and careful measurements of each decal, so that they can be reproduced if necessary (I have an excellent graphic designer who does this). Then the decals can be reproduced faithfully in the future when it is eventually time to replace the battery.
Interesting error of omission in the application list on the side of the battery; do you see it?
I would take very well (evenly) lit, very straight-on, very high-quality photos and careful measurements of each decal, so that they can be reproduced if necessary (I have an excellent graphic designer who does this). Then the decals can be reproduced faithfully in the future when it is eventually time to replace the battery.
Interesting error of omission in the application list on the side of the battery; do you see it?
grimreaper
Cross Member
I think I would put it in as is. Even though the car would not have come off the line that way it would be a shame to modify that battery. The story could always be that the car came with a defective battery and the dealer had to install that as a replacement on arrival
Rockerdude
Rock n' Roll and A-bodies
Dang a NOS battery? Your the only one that I could think of to find a relic like that laying around.. Your the coolest Ulf!
Dan! What ever I decide to do I will shoot some great pictures of the decals as they must be pretty rare.
Re the error of omission......I can't see it! I know I wear glasses but I didn't thought that I saw that bad!! :glasses7:
On the C-pillar post beside the aluminium bracket there should be some kind of isolation. The closest I got was a used old foam mat we use to have when we go camping! Now they fit perfect.
The upper stop for the rear quarter glass was an easy task. I used a rubber hose and cut small rings. Then I bended them over the edge and know they will do the job for years to come.
On the inside of the door there should be a water protection shield to keep the door panels from getting wet. On the early A-bodies that was simply plastic. On the front doors they used a yellowish contact adhesive to keep the plastic shield in place. The contact adhesive was applayed with a brush. The only plastic I found that was close was from the a building supply store. They had it on the isolation they bought!!
As you can see on the front and rear lower corner they used black paper tejp to hold the plastic shield in place. That will be the next question where to find 2" wide black paper tejp!!
slantsixdan
=..=
Yes, definitely.
1961 Lancer: Listed.
1960-'63 Valiant: Listed.
1962 Lancer: Not listed!
Dan, you got me on that one!! How could they make such an error? :banghead:
The rear tracks for the quarter glass was tricky to get the right catwisker. The factory ones has the upper and lower channel and in between small metal attachments. That will make it possible to make curves on the catwisker.
My friend Don (65 dartman) helped me out and bought the right kind of catwisker forme since the manufacturer didn't ship outside US. They arrived at the post office today and were in supershape. The only thing with them was that it wasn't possible to make curves on them. They were solid metal in the bottom!
To pass that I separated the metal bottom and the filt. The flt was cut in right lenght and then gled in place with contact adhesive. Same sort as on the inside of the doors for the plastic shield.
Then assembly of the rear of the quarter glass hardware including the loose foam that should be put against the roofrail and the aluminium plate was the fun part. Now it starts tolook like a car again! Now I just need to find out if the inner roof rail moulding lies on top of the rear moulding. According to this picture is does. Some one that has info how it should mount?
Thanks FABO!
C130 Chief
Mechanical Genius
How do I tell if my car was LA built? It is mostly an unmolested original.
EDIT: My vin is 2455109202 so it seems I have an LA built car. If our cars came off the production line fairly close to each other I would imagine that many details are similar. Please make a list of items you would like photos of and I'll see what I can do.
Thanks for the offer C130 Chief!
The areas that I would like pictures of is;
- trunk area. Each sideof the trunk and how the wires were hooked up besides the outer
tail light
- the blacked out area behind the grille
- the stamping on the heater box
- the masking of the brackets for the upper Control arm beforethey shot undercoating in
the Wheel wells
Your car is definitely assembled in Los Angeles.
2 is for slant 6 car
455 is for 2 dr hardtop assembled in Los Angeles
109202 is the vin number. Since the start of the VIN number series was 100 000 my guess is that your car was assembled in September of 1964. Check the 3 digit numbers at the left lower corner of the fender tag. First digit is month and the next is assembly date.
Today the right side was to be assembled. I even put up the inner roof rail mouldings with NOS screws! The body plugs for the inner sides was mounted as well. It's getting better and better!
:burnout:
2015 started out with that I found out that I forgot to add the isolation towards the aluminium plate on the hardtop! :banghead:
While mounting the painted plate, in one of the screw holes the paint cracked a little bit!! Question: Was it possible that while mounting painted parts in the interior that paint cracked? If so, did they leave it that way or did they replace the painted part with a new painted part? Or did they do some touch-up paint on the first plate?
The quarter panel water protection shield was made by plastic. This one is however mounted with some kind of gray cement.
The coat hook was a little tricky to get in place. I have the fear that I might miss and need to replace the headliner again! But it turned out just fine.
I'm thinking of trying out all the electrical stuff on the car so that everything is in working order tomorrow.
While mounting the painted plate, in one of the screw holes the paint cracked a little bit!! Question: Was it possible that while mounting painted parts in the interior that paint cracked? If so, did they leave it that way or did they replace the painted part with a new painted part? Or did they do some touch-up paint on the first plate?
The quarter panel water protection shield was made by plastic. This one is however mounted with some kind of gray cement.
The coat hook was a little tricky to get in place. I have the fear that I might miss and need to replace the headliner again! But it turned out just fine.
I'm thinking of trying out all the electrical stuff on the car so that everything is in working order tomorrow.
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