1965 Dodge Dart Charger

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The small gaskets inside the instrument cluster. There is one small black gasket for the oil lamp and a bigger brown gasket that goes around all the instrument lamps. The gasket should prevent the light from shining through to another lamp.

I don't know of any sources for NOS gaskets. Perhaps you can make some that would work?
 
Go to harbor freight web site and search grip dip. I think that may work for you in place of plastisol. They offer the grip dip in red and black.
 
Today I added the vacuum chamber with right part#. It really looks good.I need to redo the nipple with the right finish. Gonna feels sad to paint it red up to the half of it!

I have taken away the aluminium fins on both covers and they will go to a company who restore cars and buses! Right now they are working on a 50s Futureliner from GM. One out of twelve made. Last week they bought a some kind of bath with acid to get rid of paint, rust and the biggest part to get into it is a hood! I have two of them incl the trunklid ans somesmall stuff incl the instrument panel!I was afraid to glass bead it due to damage to it.

The aluminium fins needs a good cleaning. I hope they can make it.

The brackets between the engine and the trany was cleaned and I found out that it was yellow dichromate from the factory. Great news.

The plate between the LCA and the LCA bumper was black painted from the factory. Did some cleaning and found evidence of black paint.

The glove compartment door was added in natural to the instrument panel before it was painted. Does anyone have the plastic card that should be added on the inside of the door?

Don! I found some numbers under the rear glass on the shelf!!! I'm not sure about the name! Or my english could be better....

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Don! I found some numbers under the rear glass on the shelf!!! I'm not sure about the name! Or my english could be better....

I'd bet that the SO numbers on your fender tag will match the last 5 or 6 numbers on the cross piece. They did on the 65 Valiant I parted out.
 
how did you get the fins off the valve covers?!?!?!

I used a wide bend iron and pushed it in under the fin just a so you can see that the fin lifts from the cover. Then along one of the side I used the same thing just to free the fin from the cover. Then you just turn the fin clockwise and it will take off.
 
Today I started with the fendertag. Look at the upper left corner. Evidence of paint. That mean that the upper left screw hold the fendertag against the inner fender while the other side was bented so paint got under and then they just added a silver cad screw to hold the right side.

Now it's glass beaded and ready to be mounted to the fender.


That is exactly right! The tag was attached to the inner fender with only one screw and bent upwards. After the body was painted, the tag was bent down and attached with another screw further down the assembly line. So one screw was painted, and the other was not. Many times the screw heads did not match.

You go Ulf!!
 
OK, the ignition system is finally ok except the ignition coil. Yesterday I got the distributor cap from US and the datecoded wires is in my stock too. Third quarter of 1964.

I need to make a copy of the script on my old coil and print it on an later model. But it will show up just as NOS. The old ignition coils were used uptil late 1964 and then changed over to the newer ones that was the same up to early 70ies. The manufacturer were Essex. I'm not sure who made them forlater production. It might have been Chrysler!

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Finished the last lower door hinge tonight after I broke Uli's windshield. Holy ****!!

Well, after taking it easy for a while I continued on the last door hinge and now all of them is ready to be mounted and all the bolts have the right black phosphate finish.

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Started with the steering gear tonight. The nut for the pitman arm was tightened well!!!!!! Now I just need tió find the puller to get it off. What I have found out is that the assembly plant painted the whole unit after the pitman arm was mounted. Paint on the arm is evidence for that procedure! Any other input in this matter? Also found the paint level on the return pipe on the steerning gear. Might have been a cap on it to protect from getting paint into it!

The cleaning of the valve cover fins is done. I might need one or two new ones. Two of them is excellent but the other two.....! I found some good evidece of paint on the sides of the fins.

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After painting three fans this one is the first and only without damage to the wings. Yes! Looks like new.

Any suggestions about cleaning the spacer for the fan to like new condition? Is there some aluminium cleaning stuff to buy? Any input is gladly appriciated.

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The steering box is ready to been worked on. Before I need to find a new head.Anyone having one up for sale? Next picture is the one I bought. It's the same part# but its for 1969 and newer cars. For sale right now for
USD 40 + the ride.
 

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Today I helped out my brother-in-law with his dashboard. I found out some sweet things.

First of all it seems that the stock under dash wiring has three papertagsw/partnumbers on. One of them seems to be manufactured by M B Company. It must be the same company that doeas the door switches. The windshield wiper switch has a inspector decal on the backside.

Second we found a papertag above the heater controlswith MEC 11.HAs anyone seen this tag? I haven't with my 31 year in 65 Dart!!

Third, we found some differences between Detroit and Los Angeles built cars. Cars that were assembled in LosAngeles has the glovecompartment door and the hinges painted when it was mounted.

Detroit built cars has the door paint separately with the hinges paint gloss black.

So you guys out there with St Louis built cars can you check how your car looks.

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I know that you can restore this and that. Can you redo a speaker? My front speaker is dead but the steel stuff seems to be in pretty good condition. I need to copy the stampings.

Started to get rid of some dirt from the rear end. Found some nice paint splots. The meaning is unknown at this time. Does someone else have these markings on their axle? I might be the ratio but I'm not sure!

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During all my years in this hobby I have seen a lot of black hood stop,silver cad hood lock mecanism and so on.Today I learned that the LA built cars had yellow dichromate hood mecanism, hood stop and the open up "thing". I guess you never stop learning. Check out the date code. 4 for 1964 and 9 for September. Sweet!

This was great news. The hood has two small cracks so it will not need so much work to get in shape again.

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After 18 years of searching I finally have one. Thanks to my buddy Don a great FABO member. This is the check valve located on the vacum hose between the brake booster and the intake manifold. Made by Bendix.

For you guys that needs one they are the same as Buick Oldsmobile for 1963 up to 1966. There is one for sale on Ebay.

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That hood rubber seal is a tough one to find, my dad has a nice one on his 66 Barracuda but it has a crack. I think he found a crack free one but the rubber has turned hard. I think that rubber seal was used on several early a-body cars. I will keep my eye open for you!
 
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