1965 Dodge Dart Charger

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Dan! I actuallt has some NOS replacement filters for that canister!

Re the carburator I have a question. Was it pins and nuts all the way around for the carburator? On my convertible there are pins and nuts up front and bolts at the rear. Any input?

I added the Y-pipe with assembly line nuts and bolts. Looks great! I also mounted the power steering pump. I just need to get a nut for the mounting bolt.

On the other side is the bracket for the alternator. This is how mine was mounted from factory. At least I'm pretty sure. I need some info from you guys with 273 HP engine. Do you have the brackets like I do or some other way? Can the fuel line bracket be placed before the alternator bracket? Any input is appriciated.

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Wow, did they really paint the exhaust manifolds like that? Bizarre.
 
On the other side is the bracket for the alternator. This is how mine was mounted from factory. At least I'm pretty sure. I need some info from you guys with 273 HP engine. Do you have the brackets like I do or some other way? Can the fuel line bracket be placed before the alternator bracket? Any input is appriciated.

Do you have a picture with a wide view? I'm wondering if the factory took time to separate those brackets, clip, and bolt to paint it the way shown in your picture. I suspect they wouldin't.
 
Do you have a picture with a wide view? I'm wondering if the factory took time to separate those brackets, clip, and bolt to paint it the way shown in your picture. I suspect they wouldin't.

When I checked this engine and took it apart I found out what follows;

1. Exhaust manifolds. They were painted all the way down to the extra brackets. I have found paint both on the existing gaskets and the bracket.
2. Valve covers. All 273x2 bbl engines had painted valve covers. On the 273x4 bbl engine the covers were removed during paint procedure. I have a 1965 Formula S 273x4 bbl engine and there are rests of red engine paint under the covers and on the cylinder head.
3. The waterpump was mounted with all the bolts and fuel line brackets in place. By the time they did this the assembly line workers did not know what kind of extra stuff that was gonna be mounted on the engine. I found red paint on all the heads on the bolt for the fuel line bracket and the adjustment bolt for the power steering pump.
4. The by-pass hose between the intake manifold and the waterpump was mounted with clamps and then painted.
5. The accelerator wire bracket was silver cad and the bolt was black phosphate from the beginning. After it was mounted it was sprayed.
6. The distributor was mounted in place with the clamp and then the paint wasapplayed.
7. The ignition wire cables and the cap was added right after the engine was painted. On most the orginal cars still wearing assembly line ignition wire cables there can be found proof of red paint on them. I have that on my 65 Dart 270 sedan.
8. The oil filter adapter was mounted before the paint was applayed.
9. The alternator bracket was mounted after the paint was applayed. If not there should be difficulties to paint the engine undre the bracket.
10. The dip stick and the tube was mounted on the engine before paint was applayed.
11. The bracket for the carburator return spring was mounted before paint.
12. No pulleys were painted red.
13. The front engine supports were not mounted before paint.
14. The temperature sending unit were not painted.
15. The oil pressure sending unit was not painted.
16. The ignition marker under the water pump was mounted on the engine before the paint was applied.
17. The fuel pump was mounted before the paint was applied. My engine had the orginal fuel pump and was painted red.
18. The negative battery cable was mounted on the intake manifold before paint was applyed.
19. The vacuum pipe on the intake was added after the paint was applayed.
20. The ground wire mounted on the right side enhaust manifold at the rear was painted red too.

Some of this has been found on 273s over the years and also on my engine. Some has been verified by an old engine assembly line worker. I have enclosed some pictures of parts that I had on my engine before disassembling.

I only know that this is the way my engine was before in was dropped into my car. Any comments or knowledge about this is more then welcome.

Don! In 1965 I think Chrysler had three plants were they assembled Darts. I guess that the way they assemble the car or painted some parts was different between the plants.

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Dan! I actuallt has some NOS replacement filters for that canister!

I have some NNS (new new stock) ones, myself; they're still manufactured. The neat thing about the replaceable-element filter is that if you find one with a good decal, you only have to hunt for a correct-looking filter once, then you can change the filter forever without it looking incorrect.

Was it pins and nuts all the way around for the carburator?

Studs and nuts, yes, I believe so, but I am not 100% sure.
 
Yes, the Prestolite iron distributor was black from start. After it was assembled on the engine it was painted red.

I added the fan and the spacer. Found a nice spacer from November of 1964 so that one will do. Just used some good cleaning stuff. On the fan I found the DPCD marking stamped as well as BS. What does it stands for?

On the other side you can see a stamped D. I thought it was a dent or something that I had missed.

I added the pin in the carburator that holds the air cleaner but when it cames to the nut I do not know. The smaller one is on my convertible and the restored silver cad was on the hardtop. Question is, which one is right?

I found a magazine from 1964/1965 with a color picture of how the engine compartment looked like. This is the only color poicture that I have ever seen.

You can see painted exhaust manifolds, painted return spring bracket, a full painted negative cable and black alternator bracket.

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Ulf, do you have that "Hop-Up magazine issue? If not, I do and I can dig it out, really cool issue!
 
The stamped steel air cleaner wing nut is correct; the other one is a hardware store item used as a replacement.
 
Keith! I would love to have it. I actually just found the front page here in Sweden on a swap meet!!

I took some pictures on my brother-in-laws 65 Dart GT w/273. The car has 85000 on the clock and have never been restored.

On the picture you can see the ground strap with paint and if the strap was there when they painted the engine then the exhaust manifolds must be red too. You can also see the oilsending unit. Never touched and never painted. Date coded too.

I mounted my date coded oil sending unit 6134 meaning June 14, 1964. Looks good.

I found a used cable in mint condition. The cable was black and the ends were silver cad. I mounted the ground strap and did the paint job. Turned out great.

The kick-down linkage has a L shaped arm mounted on the transmission. Mine was glass beaded and I also had new silver cad finish. On my brother-in-laws engine/transmission the L-shaped arm seems to be in great condition. I put it in the cleaning soda so we'll see tomorrow.

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After the cleaning the kick-down arm it turned out great. But I'm not sure about what kind of finish it had. Any input?

The hi/lo switch for the head light is made by RBM. But the one I bought, NOS was wrong. There are some small differences! Was there any other supplier of these switches? I still want to find a RBM piece.

I need to find an NOS one.

A friend of mine stopped by today and he had a ad from Weatherhead re brass couplings. I knew the W marking from all my brass couplings.
 

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"RBM" = "Really Badly Made". :lol:
There were lots of suppliers for that switch, which was used for decades under the same part number. What you receive when you buy a NOS item is up to the fates. About all you can do is ask NOS parts suppliers to check the switches they have to see if they come up with an RBM item.

Weatherhead is an old name; here's a pic I snapped at Old Car Parts Northwest last time I was there:

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Dan! I wish I could find one of those old boxes with fittings. But it mikght be possible on Ebay.

Today the engine and front end was united. It looks great. Now it's time to continue on all the odds and ends for the engine to get it ready. The restoration on the transmission is going well. It is cleaned to like-new condition and the assembly of it has started.NOw I need to get some small stuff to him. Lars or "Texas" as he is called is doing a super job on the tranny.

Will start to finish the torsion bars to get them ready and then the rear axle.

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After doing the torsion bars they turned out great. But I do not know if the drippings came on both sides. I'm not sure if they came that way. ANy info from your cars?

The torsion bar boots have been discussed before. I need to find a new set. If anyone have a nice set from an unmolested car and they are in mint condition I would be interested buying them. If you see close on the first picture you can see the replacement ones. The last picture is a factory orginla one. The last one is the one that I need.

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Started out with the prop shaft. My old one have a bunch of markings so I changed with my brother in law.

This shaft has no marking and has the front yoke made by Detroit with the DPCD markings. This shaft has orginally been painted. Under all the grease,undercoating and dirt is the back paint. What I know of is that they were natural in finish. So the question is; was the prop shaft painted back in 1965? Any help is very much appriciated.

The rear U/joint have a connection between each side. I'm not sure of the reason for that.

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In my experience, the driveshaft was natural-finish from the factory, painted black by whatever driveshaft shop might have serviced it along the years.
 
These cold days makes me go through the internet in my search for different stuff. I found a great picture showing how the undercarrige looked after it was painted in primer. The body was oversprayed and when it came to the drying procedure you can see evidense of the paint drips.



The primer coat on the bottom was NOT sprayed. These car bodies prepped in a 13 step process:

1.
2. Each body is dipped and sprayed in hot alkaline cleaner.
3.
4. Body is dipped and sprayed in hot rinse.
5.
6. Body is again dipped and sprayed in rinse.
7.
8. Body is dipped and sprayed in a paint-anchoring phosphate solution.
9.
10. Body is dipped and sprayed in cold rinse.
11.
12. Body is dipped and sprayed in special solution to further aid paint adhesion.
13. Body is dipped 22" deep in special corrosion-resistant primer to completely coat all critical lower body sheet metal and fender peaks inside and out.
After dipping the body, the primer is oven-dried to ready the body for painting.

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The above description is from factory literature contained in the book, "A New Kind of Plymouth: Barracuda 1964-1969 A Book of Information".

So the drips on the bottom of the car are NOT from spraying, but from being dipped in a very large vat of primer suspended from spreader bars that appear to have hooked onto the underside of the roof. I saw these "stalagnites" on the underside of my 69 cuda. You can see the level to which the body was dipped by looking at the interior panels inside the rear quarter panels. The metal above the dip line is usually rustier than the submerged part. The actual color of the primer is kind of a dark muddy gray and any body color on the underside is from overspray that happened when the finish color was sprayed on. No attempt was made to completely coat the underside in shiny body color that is typically found on over "restored" cars. A correctly restored car would not have shiny body color over 100% of the underside.
In my experience, the anti-rust dipping may have been good in theory, but actually it did not seem to prevent rust, only slow the process down a little. Around here, it was common to see rust holes through the bodies of cars after only 4-5 years on the road.
 
Engine sounds terrific!

Don't use Fram oil filters; they're junk.



X2 on the engine start!! And my son's name is Kevin also, so there!
I agree about the Fram oil filters, I stopped using them about 10 years ago. The 3.3 in my Caravan used to ALWAYS clatter a bit on cold start up. I switched to Purolater and no longer have the noise.
 
Here is the rear universal joint. It's funny with this one that there are no nipple to add grease!!! Can it be the factory one?? They didn't come with nipplesfrom the factory but what I know of all the service joints had grease nipples. Am I wrong?

The clip between both free cups was that a standard thing? Somewhere I have a assembly universal joint but it does not have that clip between the two cups.

Or was it on the assembly line that the clip holded the cups while they mounted it???

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Aftermarket U-joints are available with grease nipples. Original and (Chrysler/Mopar) service replacements had none.
 
The clip between the caps held the caps on at the factory. The newer cars it was a spring wire rather than the flat piece the older cars had.
 
Thanks for the info. But in that case where is the spring that holds the cups? I have the two packages with assembly line U-joints. There are no springs present.

I got back the steering column in excellent condition. I started to grease the cup and added new "blocks" on the column. New gasket but I can't find the clips that goes over and hold it in place!!!!

The mark in the upper part of the column should be pointing upwards during assembly. That meets the oposit on the steering wheel.

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