1965 Dodge Dart Charger

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This is what I found on the webesite of Mopar Action. Dave Walden did an incredible job on this 70 Challenger R/T.

Here you will se the plastic bag including some printings.

"All the parts that would have come to the dealer in the trunk-rear license plate hardware, front license plate bracket and hardware, tire valve extensions, etc are in original or Dave’s correctly repopped plastic bags with correct lettering. Traveler sheet (upper left in trunk) shows basically the top line of the build sheet (VIN, etc.) Jack is date-coded, back of market lights have the original galvanized finish. Original rubber plugs differ from repops available. Trunk mat also is an original. "
 

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All FABO members here has probably been aware that the sillmouldings is impossibleto find. When I bought my first Dart GT back in 1980 I Always wanted a set of sillmouldings that was mint och new. That has never happened until today! My buddy Ronny did a test copy for me and then did these excellent reproductions of the sill mouldings for A-body 2 door. They looks exactlyas the factory ones except they need some wet sanding and some polishing. That just saved my day tomorrow!!

BTW, have anyone ever seen these repopped?
 

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Those look fantastic! Maybe your friend would like to get in the business of re popping them?
 
All FABO members here has probably been aware that the sillmouldings is impossibleto find. When I bought my first Dart GT back in 1980 I Always wanted a set of sillmouldings that was mint och new. That has never happened until today! My buddy Ronny did a test copy for me and then did these excellent reproductions of the sill mouldings for A-body 2 door. They looks exactlyas the factory ones except they need some wet sanding and some polishing. That just saved my day tomorrow!!

BTW, have anyone ever seen these repopped?

I think Laysons has them re-poped, I was gonna order a set for my Valiant but funds are low at this time.....:banghead:
 
I think Laysons has them re-poped

I always recommend thinking very carefully before deciding to spend money at Layson's. Even if you gamble and win (actually get the part and it's actually as described), your money goes to an outfit with a long track record of behaviour you might not want to support. See, for just a few examples, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, and here. Much of what they sell is not of their own manufacture; a large proportion of their product line is bought elsewhere and marked up, so take your time and shop around carefully; they're frequently not the only source for a part.
 
I think Laysons has them re-poped, I was gonna order a set for my Valiant but funds are low at this time.....:banghead:

Thanks Keith! I didn't know they repopped them! But now I got them!

Yesterday I got the last piece of the brake system. That's the section between the tee and the rear brake hose. I bought it from Classic Industries and the fit is excellent. However there is a steel spring around the hole pipe! Mine just had at the front and at the rear part. I had to cut the end and bring out the spring and cut themin right lenght. Tomorrow I will make a new seat and then it's ready to be installed. Let see, where is the NOS date coded brake fluid..........

The cover for the shifter is rechromed and it looks good. However I wonder what kind of silver finish I should use. Can it be argent silver, aluminium silver and basic silver like the instrument cluster?
 

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I fixed the cone for the brake line so now all is in order. However there is two different types of clips holding the brake line in place. The smaller ones goes on the first two mounting holes and the bigger ones goes for the last two mounting holes. The last two clips is the same as
the clips used on the fuel line! Now I just need to bleed the brakes. But the first two clamps need to be glass beaded and getting new finish.
 

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Wow... I got sucked into the void, just read this entire thread... truly and unbelievable build, the detail is phenomenal, Great Job Ulf!!!

And what a wealth of knowledge and information on correct pieces, sources and, and, and! Applause to everyone! Slantsixdan, you my friend, need a hobby! haha
 
Slantsixdan, you my friend, need a hobby! haha

I'm trying to quit! It's a tough go, though…there's no arm patch, accupuncture, hypnotherapy, special chewing gum…it's just cold turkey. I typically get about two weeks in and then can't handle the cravings any more.

redbeard.gif
 
Painting small plastic models was a big hobby for me back in my teens. I did a number of hot rods and muscle cars. I was even a fan of trucks!

Today I used my skills from that era. I painted the front moulding that goes on top of the front fenders. They are painted red, White and blue. The colors of Chrysler and USA.

It took quite sometime but is now done. I even mounted one incl the upper moulding.THe front fenders section is almost done.
 

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Building & painting those models were good practice (it's another art lost on the current young generation).
I must say this is an interesting & entertaining thread on your build. There's a library of information and it is one thread I look at everyday!
 
Wow! Really starting to look like a (nos) car!
I was going to say keep it up, but actually I think you need to slow down a bit. What are we going to check in on every day when you're done?
 
Hello 65dartcharger, Where did you find the cap and PVC valve assembly on the right side valve cover? I'm in need of one and can't seem to find it anywhere. Any help would be appreciated. Very nice build by the way.
 
Hello 65dartcharger, Where did you find the cap and PVC valve assembly on the right side valve cover? I'm in need of one and can't seem to find it anywhere. Any help would be appreciated. Very nice build by the way.

Here is a link to Ebay where they have the valve.

[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/nos-pcv-valves-mopar-all-engines-nice-/221347003372?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33894f3bec&vxp=mtr"]PCV Valves Mopar All Engines Nice | eBay[/ame]

I have the hat (not Chrome) and spring on the shelf.

Let me know if you are interested.
 
Wow! Really starting to look like a (nos) car!
I was going to say keep it up, but actually I think you need to slow down a bit. What are we going to check in on every day when you're done?

Well,right now I'm working slow! Some vital part has not been found so now I'm assembling what I can.

We'll see what I can come up with after this one!

The chrome mounding that goes on top of the front fenders was mounted today with the right nuts (PAL nuts!!!) The upper aluminium moulding was pushed in Place so now I could mount the front inner splash shield. They fitted like a glove!

I was also in the rubber bumper department. I bought reproduction rubber parts but the ones for the hood are not even Close. They are smaller and thinner which would result in dirt and water would go into the Engine compartment!! Why can't they do it right when they do the effort to repop it?? I vent through all my rubber bumpers and was fortunate to find two that was as close as you can get. A bottle of brake cleaner and they was like new. Looks good!
 

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A lot of times the problem isn't that someone doesn't properly reproduce a part, it's that they improperly list a part as being correct for more years and applications than it is actually correct for.
 
Those wheel wells look so nice. It will be a shame to cover all that nice work with undercoating.
 
Those wheel wells look so nice. It will be a shame to cover all that nice work with undercoating.

Yeah, I know! It's a killer but when the undercoating is sprayed I know that I could not have done it better!

Dan! You are so right! That's what they should do. Be more specific.
 
The clips that holds the brake hose/brake line showed up today from Roger Gibson. Top notch stuff that's now in place. I guess I have no excude for not starting bleeding the brakes after I got the front drums in place.

The front rear splash shield was the next thing today. I have bought all the gaskets from DMT and I must say that their quality is superb. Everything fits just as it should. I had done the screws holding the splash shiled in factory silver zinc finish.

I started from top so I got the splash shield tight to the upper part of the front fender. Then I followed the line down wards until I stopped and added the plastic gasket that mounts between the front side of the rocker moulding and the splash shield. I guess that it's function is to keep all dirt, water and other elements from getting stuck behind the splash shield. Then it was the last two bolts and there it was. But as 65DartGTConv said, it gonna feels sad to shoot the undercoating on top of this.
 

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The clips that holds the brake hose/brake line showed up today from Roger Gibson. Top notch stuff that's now in place. I guess I have no excude for not starting bleeding the brakes after I got the front drums in place.

The front rear splash shield was the next thing today. I have bought all the gaskets from DMT and I must say that their quality is superb. Everything fits just as it should. I had done the screws holding the splash shiled in factory silver zinc finish.

I started from top so I got the splash shield tight to the upper part of the front fender. Then I followed the line down wards until I stopped and added the plastic gasket that mounts between the front side of the rocker moulding and the splash shield. I guess that it's function is to keep all dirt, water and other elements from getting stuck behind the splash shield. Then it was the last two bolts and there it was. But as 65DartGTConv said, it gonna feels sad to shoot the undercoating on top of this.

Agree on all counts. But what you might want to consider when it actually comes time to spray that undercoating is to deviate a bit from the haphazard application of the factory and concentrate on all of the edges of the splash shields and where they meet their mating parts. Also, that piece of closed cell foam at the bottom just screams "water trap", so coating it thoroughly in the undercoating might not be a bad thing.

If you intend for your car to be a permanent demonstration of exactly how a car was built by L.A. assembly and not driven, then reproducing the haphazrd spray pattern is the way to go, but if you want to drive your car and expose it to the weather while it's out on the road some care with the undercoating material might keep all of your hard work from deteriorating that much sooner.
 
Agree on all counts. But what you might want to consider when it actually comes time to spray that undercoating is to deviate a bit from the haphazard application of the factory and concentrate on all of the edges of the splash shields and where they meet their mating parts. Also, that piece of closed cell foam at the bottom just screams "water trap", so coating it thoroughly in the undercoating might not be a bad thing.

If you intend for your car to be a permanent demonstration of exactly how a car was built by L.A. assembly and not driven, then reproducing the haphazrd spray pattern is the way to go, but if you want to drive your car and expose it to the weather while it's out on the road some care with the undercoating material might keep all of your hard work from deteriorating that much sooner.

You are so right Kevin!

Here is a picture on the pattern that Mike Mancini of American Muscle Car Restoration in Kingstown, RI did on a beautiful restored 1970 Duster.

"Original undercoating painstakingly duplicated using Mancini’s own formula and trial and error on cardboard. He mixed several different undercoatings together and used a special gun with high air pressure to come out thick and chunky like the factory."
 

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My friend Johan fabricated a tool for me so I could mount the rubber cover on the upper control arm. The work vent well and know they are in place.

The upper control arms mounts with two black phosphated excentric bolts and are tightened with one washer, one lock washer and a nut. The excentric bolt mounts from the inside out. (I didn't know that!!)

I loosened the bolt for the spring adjustment so I got the spave to hold up the lower control arm so I could add the upper arm. The work vent great and is know in place on the left side. However I found out that my supply of correct cotter pins is empty!!
 

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