1965 Valiant 200 convertible (minor project)

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Plug wires are new. Why they didn't install boots, I couldn't tell ya. Previous owners, right?
Any recommendations for boots and/or wires?

And when you say "looks like an '80 model", do you mean 1980 specifically or '80's decade in general?
Think I could get the PVC to fit the existing grommet without having to change the grommet, too?
 
You've definitely got the peanut heads, which are 75 and newer. More specifically, a bit of online research says the head's casting number on the head indicates 1979-1980.

According to one online source, the block casting number indicates a so-called "30" block, used for the last iteration of forged crank motors. But forged cranks were phased out at the end of 1976 (part way through the 77 model year). And forged crank blocks and cast crank blocks are not the same, and their cranks are not interchangeable, so if the foregoing is true, the 79-80 head is not original to the block. ??

Heads are interchangeable, though, regardless of solid or hydraulic lifters, or forged or cast cranks. So long as you run the valve gear (pushrods, rockers) for the kind of cam you have.

I think the foregoing is correct, but, as always, I'm happy to be corrected by someone who knows more than I do. Particularly in regards to the meaning of the block casting number.
 
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The block date code indicates it's a '80 model, as well as the 0225, if that is what is stamped on top of the block surface behind the coil bracket. I'd pull the valve cover and replace the PCV grommet if it's hard. That way you can also see if it's a hydraulic cam or solid cam. If solid (has rocker adjusters), I'd check and/or adjust them as necessary.
 
cudamark said:
The block date code indicates it's a '80 model, as well as the 0225, if that is what is stamped on top of the block surface behind the coil bracket. I'd pull the valve cover and replace the PCV grommet if it's hard. That way you can also see if it's a hydraulic cam or solid cam. If solid (has rocker adjusters), I'd check and/or adjust them as necessary.
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Is "1490" the block date code? Maybe Sept 14, 1980?

And the "330" doesn't mean a "30" forged crank block like someone posted on another forum?

That would make more sense than a 1979-80 head on an earlier forged crank block.

Curious. Seems to be hard to find good info on the late slant six stuff.
 
@scott_s

regardless of all the things "not right" with your new car. It is still awesome and you should drive the heck out of it. we all forget sometimes that a new to me car is exciting and when we all tell the new to me person what's wrong with it, it can be a bit of a downer.

Enjoy and welcome to the club ( money pit club!) but it is fun and you get to meet many great people along the way.

BTW there are many FABO folks in the San Diego area. start a post and ask.
 
I'm in South Carolina, near Charlotte.

For this car, I 100% don't care about originality/correctness. It was bought to be a driver. We'll use it for road trips, brewery runs, letting the dogs ride along, etc.
I *DO* care about it being dependable and dialed in and usable. I like to fix the little niggling things.

I have a '63 Bug I've owned for nearly 30 years. It was a show car and is still that nice. I like that the Valiant draws stares and thumbs up just like the Bug, but I'm not scared to actually use it!
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Dana67Dart said:
@scott_s

regardless of all the things "not right" with your new car. It is still awesome and you should drive the heck out of it. we all forget sometimes that a new to me car is exciting and when we all tell the new to me person what's wrong with it, it can be a bit of a downer.

Enjoy and welcome to the club ( money pit club!) but it is fun and you get to meet many great people along the way.

BTW there are many FABO folks in the San Diego area. start a post and ask.
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Spot on DD :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Make it safe then get out and drive it @scott_s
 
Just for the record, I don't think anyone was putting the car down. I modify everything I own. But I do like to know what's modified and what isn't.

My 63 Valiant convertible has a black interior. I owned it for 25 years before I discovered that black interiors were not available in 63. 64-later, yes, 63 no. Funny thing is I used to show it, mostly in stock A body classes if I removed some of the engine chrome. Won a lot of trophies, too. No one ever noticed that the interior color wasn't correct. Guess you get by with stuff when you don't own an E body or 68-71 B body. :rolleyes: :)

Edit: Just to clarify, I knew the interior wasn't originally black (car originally was gray with a blue interior). I just didn't realize that black was not even available that year. I read somewhere recently that when newly installed Chrysler Prez Lynn Townsen learned that black interiors weren't available for any of Chrysler Corporation's cars in 63, he raised you know what and made sure black was an available interior color for 64. Okay, I digress. . . .
 
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I didn't take it that anyone was putting it down. Sorry if I came across that way.
I am enjoying all the information! I have a lot to learn.
 
65 Cuda 340 said:
Is "1490" the block date code? Maybe Sept 14, 1980?

And the "330" doesn't mean a "30" forged crank block like someone posted on another forum?

That would make more sense than a 1979-80 head on an earlier forged crank block.

Curious. Seems to be hard to find good info on the late slant six stuff.
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The 1490 is the 149th day of 1980. I've seen forged and cast cranks in all years of blocks. Generally the forged cranks were in trucks and vans with manual transmissions, but, even that isn't etched in stone.
 
OK, not to beat a dead horse, but it is correct that forged crank and cast crank blocks are different? Does the "330" casting number mean a forged block? So the OP has a forged crank 1980 slant six motor?

Guess now he needs to pull the valve cover and see if he has hydraulic or solid lifters.

And like you posted earlier, how is the late motor hooked to an early trans? Or maybe it has a later trans, too?
 
By the looks of it, it should be a solid cam if it's stock. The hydraulic cam engine used a different valve cover....one with a notch in it. Anything can be changed or modified though. If it's a stock '65 model, it would have a cable shift 904 with a ball and trunion driveshaft. Those transmissions came with a converter with a small diameter snout that fit into the end of a matching diameter crankshaft register. In '68, Mopar went to the larger diameter snout and matching crank, like what came on 318's and all the big blocks. If you put a big hole crank in a car with a small snout converter, sometimes the converter doesn't get centered correctly causing cracked/broken flex plates and pump failures and/or leaks. There is a bushing available to do the conversion, and hopefully that was done. I've seen a whole lot of them that weren't though. Some worked fine, some kept breaking flex plates. I never attributed one block casting with a particular crank. In the mid 70's somewhere. the slant 6 went from wide rod bearings to narrow ones. I don't think it was block dependent though. I drove a '78 PU 225 with a 435 truck 4 speed and it had a forged crank in it. I don't remember if it had the narrow rods or wide rods, but, those can be changed for whatever crank you want to use.
 
Is there anything I could show you guys about the transmission that would be a tell?
And 1980 would still be solid lifters?
 
Is it still a cable shift? Get the numbers off the drivers side pan rail if you'd like to know what it came in originally. It will be a 7 digit number stamped in the case. '80 should be solid lifter if it hasn't been changed. '81 started the hydraulic setup. There may be a before and after date that doesn't correspond exactly to the model year, so, anything is possible. The '81 with hydraulic cam/lifters used a different valve cover (and cylinder head) than what you have. That's why I figured yours is probably a solid lifter version.
 
cudamark said:
Is it still a cable shift? Get the numbers off the drivers side pan rail if you'd like to know what it came in originally. It will be a 7 digit number stamped in the case. '80 should be solid lifter if it hasn't been changed. '81 started the hydraulic setup. There may be a before and after date that doesn't correspond exactly to the model year, so, anything is possible. The '81 with hydraulic cam/lifters used a different valve cover (and cylinder head) than what you have. That's why I figured yours is probably a solid lifter version.
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What do you mean by drivers side pan rail?
Remember..... newbie here.
 
I don't know that it matters if the motor is cast or forged crank; it's perfectly fine for street use either way. Now, I have near zero experience with late slant sixes, but I've always heard that slant six cast cranks and forged cranks are not interchangeable; the blocks are different. Below is from William Weertman's History of the Slant 6 engine, part 2, Winter 1992 issue of the Slant 6 News. Note the last sentence.

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The same article says that the peanut heads began in the 1975 model year. Also that hydraulic cams were introduced for the 1981 model year.

In Part 3 (Spring 1993 Slant 6 News), Weertman discusses the truck slant sixes. According to him, the shot-peened forged crankshafts of the heavy duty truck engines were discontinued "in 1977 when the crank was redesigned and changed from a forged to a cast type."

This does not seem to allow any slant six forged cranks after 1976, in either trucks or cars.

Of course, even the most experienced person - even one who helped design the slant six - can be wrong every now and then.

But if the OP's engine IS a cast crank motor, then (contrary to what I've seen posted elsewhere) the 030 casting number on the block would not mean it's a forged crank motor.

I'm thinking he has a 1980 cast crank, solid lifter motor.
 
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scott_s said:
What do you mean by drivers side pan rail?
Remember..... newbie here.
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Where the oil pan meets the main transmission case there is a vertical surface on the driver's side where numbers are stamped. You may need to scrape off some crud to read them.
 
Ahh... the exhaust pipe is sort of in the way, too.
I'll try to get a better look in the driveway one day. It's hard to see in the garage right now.
 
Another thing I've noticed is that the bumpers on this cat are REALLY nice. Like, brand new nice.
In my limited searches, I haven't seen repops for sale, and they're just too nice to be original survivors

Are repops available or did the P.O. possibly have these rechromed?
 
scott_s said:
I didn't take it that anyone was putting it down
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Neither did I, I just remember my nephew bought a new to him 50 something Chevy truck and the first time he showed it to me I pointed out everything that was wrong with it. (Just trying to be helpful)

The look on his face was heart breaking. I vowed then and there never to do that again.
 
cudamark said:
The block date code indicates it's a '80 model, as well as the 0225, if that is what is stamped on top of the block surface behind the coil bracket. I'd pull the valve cover and replace the PCV grommet if it's hard. That way you can also see if it's a hydraulic cam or solid cam. If solid (has rocker adjusters), I'd check and/or adjust them as necessary.
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I'm not near the car at the moment so I can't check, but would that mean it has electronic ignition too?
 
There's a coil mounted on the engine clock, near the distributor. I don't see anything that looks like the first pic, but I could just be overlooking it. Where is that located? I can't tell by your pic. And what is it?
 
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