I have a 1966 Dart with /6 225. My radiator blew and the one I bought at Summit doesn't fit (website says it does but it don't). I have a 318 being built right now. This 318 will be street/strip 400HP. I don't want to have one made and I like the stock look. Will the 273 V8 radiator be enough? And who do you recommend getting one from? I'm not looking for a used one either.
1966 dodge dart radiator question
- Thread starter peltjd
- Start date
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22x22 - 2 core should be enough for mild 318. If have concerns, get a 3 core.
Whats off on your radiator? If its the lower water outlet on the wrong side, 318 exits on the passenger side. If need exit on drivers side (the 273 radiator) could use the early 273 water pump. Makes timing the engine a bit difficult cuz 318 mark is on the drivers side, not passenger side like 318.
The Summit radiator is 3 inches to wide. They said it was a typo on the website and it's for a 1973 and later. It's a Griffin 8-00038-LS. I would rather get one that looks stock anyways. Do you have a preferred place to buy one?
I saw that Doug Sneider of Moparts of Las Vegas had a number of 22" radiators that would fit my dart when I had my radiator re-cored thru him. Most of them were automatic trans radiators, but there may be a few that are manual.
Give him a call. Tell him Tom Watters sent you. 702-641-8504
http://www.moparsoflasvegas.us/inde...ug_bus_wb&name=gallery&include=view_photo.php
Give him a call. Tell him Tom Watters sent you. 702-641-8504
http://www.moparsoflasvegas.us/inde...ug_bus_wb&name=gallery&include=view_photo.php
Commando66
She's a beaut Clark!
That Coolcraft radiator says it will fit 64-66. This may be a typo or mistake on their part because 64 is a smaller rad. In my opinion, purchase a core rad and have it recored at a local shop. You will have the best of both worlds, stock look and enough cooling.
swing69
fightin' socialism
The biggest thing is to figure out what water pump you are going to run. CI pumps are on the drivers side (inlet), and the later alum. pumps are the passenger side. The timing cover marks are either cast into the drivers side, or a bolt on pointer can be used (as stock) from the 273. Make sure you use the correct balancer (diff. pos. timing marks). Be aware the intake bypass hose is smaller on the CI waterpump too, so if using an aftermarket intake, you'll have to bush down the intake side, or bush up the pump side. Also; the pulley set will be different between the alum and steel pump. old 273 alt. brackets are hard to find.
Once you know the pump, balancer, timing cover config., then go rad. shopping. If using an automatic radiator, just plug the cooler ports. Manual rads are harder to find. there are more radiator choices with a rad outlet on the pass. side.
On early A's; when putting in a 318 into a 273 car, I use all the 273 stuff I can. I'd get the stock radiator recored. If putting a SB into a S6 car, I prefer loading up with the later alum. pump stuff. Why? easier to find pulleys, cheaper waterpump, easier to line up the eddy intake with the alum. pump. Rad iwll be an aftermarket on for a later A body. I modify the opening in the rad support as needed.
First pict is a 318 in a 64 Valiant, alum. waterpump, later Abody stock rad, The second pict is the underside, showing the rad. outlet (pass. side)
The third pict is a 318 prepped to replace a 273 in a 65 early A. The alum. timing cover was used, so the 273 timing mark metal tabbed was used.
Once you know the pump, balancer, timing cover config., then go rad. shopping. If using an automatic radiator, just plug the cooler ports. Manual rads are harder to find. there are more radiator choices with a rad outlet on the pass. side.
On early A's; when putting in a 318 into a 273 car, I use all the 273 stuff I can. I'd get the stock radiator recored. If putting a SB into a S6 car, I prefer loading up with the later alum. pump stuff. Why? easier to find pulleys, cheaper waterpump, easier to line up the eddy intake with the alum. pump. Rad iwll be an aftermarket on for a later A body. I modify the opening in the rad support as needed.
First pict is a 318 in a 64 Valiant, alum. waterpump, later Abody stock rad, The second pict is the underside, showing the rad. outlet (pass. side)
The third pict is a 318 prepped to replace a 273 in a 65 early A. The alum. timing cover was used, so the 273 timing mark metal tabbed was used.
"If putting a SB into a S6 car, I prefer loading up with the later alum. pump stuff. Why? easier to find pulleys, cheaper waterpump, easier to line up the eddy intake with the alum. pump."
Do you mean later model A's? What years will fit my 66?
Side note- This is my daily driver and I am without a radiator at this point. I will have to drive my wife's beetle until solved. Not cool!!!
Do you mean later model A's? What years will fit my 66?
Side note- This is my daily driver and I am without a radiator at this point. I will have to drive my wife's beetle until solved. Not cool!!!
swing69
fightin' socialism
You cannot use a S6 rad with a 318, the rad outlet has an angled stub, which will not work with a 318. you need a SB radiator.
I forget exactly what year radiator I used. Basically, all the radiator supports are the same 67-76. The CI waterpump with the drivers side pump inlet was used until ~ 1971 (I THINK...I can't remember for sure)....after that (whenever the changeover year was to alum waterpumps)....the waterpump inlet (rad. outlet) is on the pass. side.
I'll have to check my records at work, but I used a stock, Autozone "ready-rad" radiator for a later Abody.
It wasn't a direct fit. I had to trim the mounting brackets back to fit between the frame rails, and drill new holes for mounting bolts. The 66 frame rails are narrower than the 67+ cars.
THAT being said; this was on a 64 Plymouth. I don't know for sure if the 66 Dart rad support is the same as the 64 Plymouth. I probably is though. I didn't open the rad support hole any.
Both cars below are orig. S6 cars.
Black car is the 64 Valiant with the later rad. notice the shiny radiator mounting bolt.
The white is a stock 64 valiant S6 car. easier to see the rad. support.
I forget exactly what year radiator I used. Basically, all the radiator supports are the same 67-76. The CI waterpump with the drivers side pump inlet was used until ~ 1971 (I THINK...I can't remember for sure)....after that (whenever the changeover year was to alum waterpumps)....the waterpump inlet (rad. outlet) is on the pass. side.
I'll have to check my records at work, but I used a stock, Autozone "ready-rad" radiator for a later Abody.
It wasn't a direct fit. I had to trim the mounting brackets back to fit between the frame rails, and drill new holes for mounting bolts. The 66 frame rails are narrower than the 67+ cars.
THAT being said; this was on a 64 Plymouth. I don't know for sure if the 66 Dart rad support is the same as the 64 Plymouth. I probably is though. I didn't open the rad support hole any.
Both cars below are orig. S6 cars.
Black car is the 64 Valiant with the later rad. notice the shiny radiator mounting bolt.
The white is a stock 64 valiant S6 car. easier to see the rad. support.
If I understand correctly. 72-76 Sb radiator with a little massaging will be my best bet. Because I can use the aluminum water pump and pulleys. And best thing I might be able to get a new one from the auto parts store???
Like this!!!
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MHT0/433499.oap?keyword=radiator&pt=01386&ppt=C0331
Like this!!!
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MHT0/433499.oap?keyword=radiator&pt=01386&ppt=C0331
'64 Cuda
Well-Known Member
I believe the change over to the aluminum pump was in 1970.
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
I run a 318 2 core rad in my 66 dart with a 410/904.I had it re-cored and have no cooling issues.
I appreciate the help. Re-coring means I have to find a used radiator and then find a shop that I can deal with. Could be easy but my hard luck says it won't be. I would like to just buy one ready to go. Swinger69 telling me he bought one from the auto parts store is what I like to hear. Thanks for all responses, I love car forums. I couldn't imagine doing half the stuff I do without them!!
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Correct....'69 and earlier was cast iron....'70 and newer aluminum. The '64 A-bodies all used a 19" wide radiator. Starting in '65 the radiator core support opening was widened to install a 22" radiator. I would put a 22" row core in the car if it were me. I've never had a problem with too much cooling capacity.
Moparhead64
Well-Known Member
Believe it or not I live in michigan and have ran into problems with finding a fan and only had water in everthing just in case there was a leak running a .030 over 340 .528 solid cam 750 carb with a 20 inch radiator with NO COOLING problems!!! I guess I am just lucky!
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
My 65 Dart is probably the same size as your 66. I got a later radiator (72+?) at Autozone and had to switch to the alum water pump to match. The radiator bracket holes are inside my opening slightly so will need to make adapters (haven't installed). The combination of 1" thicker water pump and radiator brackets sticking out more leaves little space. Can't use the clutch fan I planned and have to get a thin nylon fan. I also had to get the later p.s. pump and brackets to fit the water pump, and a later w.p. pulley.
Nothing is simple when you change. It all started when I couldn't get the early-A radiator. Since then I have seen a new one locally for half the Autozone price ($100). If doing it again (your situation), I would stay w/ the cast-iron water pump. You probably don't need the early alternator bracket. I think the later after-market brackets (nice chrome <$20) fit the cast w.p. and spacers are easy to find (pretty chrome ones at hardware stores). However, you may need the early TRW Thompson p.s. pump and brackets.
Nothing is simple when you change. It all started when I couldn't get the early-A radiator. Since then I have seen a new one locally for half the Autozone price ($100). If doing it again (your situation), I would stay w/ the cast-iron water pump. You probably don't need the early alternator bracket. I think the later after-market brackets (nice chrome <$20) fit the cast w.p. and spacers are easy to find (pretty chrome ones at hardware stores). However, you may need the early TRW Thompson p.s. pump and brackets.
DonPal
Well-Known Member
see http://www.quantaproducts.com/product/6862/1966-A-Body-Small-Block-w--17-1-2-x-22-Core/U35245.aspx
They offer options:
3 or 4 row
Ac or not
Auto or manual.
I installed a 66 Dart SL6 3 row AC in my 65 Dart & it never overheats even without a fan. I've also installed the same radiator in my daughter's 65 Dart & the overheating issues evaporated upon installation.
They offer options:
3 or 4 row
Ac or not
Auto or manual.
I installed a 66 Dart SL6 3 row AC in my 65 Dart & it never overheats even without a fan. I've also installed the same radiator in my daughter's 65 Dart & the overheating issues evaporated upon installation.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
I checked quanta, but see prices > $400 for a '66 Dart radiator. I can get real creative before I spend that much.
I have seen new aluminum radiators advertised on ebay ~$135. Some have bought them and thought OK, but I recall problems fitting in early A's (too tall). Search FABO posts. Perhaps different manufacturers. One guy even cut and folded down the lower radiator support (ouch). Alum is lighter and cools better than copper, but not as reliable, though with proper coolant they can last a long time. All my newer cars have alum ones. Don't ever run just pure water, since could corrode thru in < 1 month.
I could solder the brackets from my 65 radiator to the new 72 Autozone radiator I have and might get a perfect fit, but then I would have to do that on every replacement. I may spend the time to make adapter brackets and be better setup for the future.
I have a champion aluminum radiator in my 66 that I got off of ebay last year for under $200. I am running a 318 so I had to use one with the lower hose on the rh side. I believe it is a 2 row but it has wide rows. Other than modifying the mounting holes a little bit it fit right in and no cooling issues. I run a 180 thermostat. I am on the road for work right now or I would include a pic.
ValiantRacing
Well-Known Member
What are you running for a fan? I was settting the radiator on my car yesterday and there is only like 2.25 inches between the pump and radiator!
65V, It has a small spacer block and a flex fan right now. I was reading on here about a thin fan that uses clutch fan setup off of a jaguar or something. I will have to find it again. don't really care for the flex fan is it is kinda noisy.
Just checked Flex-a-lite website and found a high rpm standard 17" fan p/n 1617P that is 1 3/4" thick. I may switch to that. The clutch fan setup I was talking about was a Hayden clutch #2765 but it measures 2 11/16" tall. Too tall for your setup and probably mine too. I will have to measure mine when I get back home this weekend.
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/race-fans.html
Just checked Flex-a-lite website and found a high rpm standard 17" fan p/n 1617P that is 1 3/4" thick. I may switch to that. The clutch fan setup I was talking about was a Hayden clutch #2765 but it measures 2 11/16" tall. Too tall for your setup and probably mine too. I will have to measure mine when I get back home this weekend.
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/race-fans.html
66dartgt
Well-Known Member
I had the OEM 273 radiator recored for the warmed over 318 in my 66 dart. I installed the correct metal shroud. CI large vane waterpump, correct oem matched pulleys, 180 robertshaw stat etc. NO DICE. It would NOT cool. I verified that the stat was opening at 180 using a thermometer and hot water on a stove.
Take into consideration that my motor was .060 over, making for thinner cyl walls (= more heat).
I put in a 68 dart 3 core radiator, shroud, and 7 blade solid drive flex fan, same pulley set up. It just barely keeps up with it in hot weather.
I plan to install an AL radiator designed to bolt in this body, I think it was a champion off of ebay I bought (last year) - probably same deal as 737 jet dr has, only its set up to work with the old style CI pump outlet etc. I am quite sure this will cool the motor, its designed to handle up to 700 Hp - lots more than mine !
Bottom line - cut to the chase and get something over engineered for cooling. You wont regret it. I have thrown a lot of $ at getting this thing "right" - use my experience !
Keep in mind as well that you may need to open the core support to the "right" size for the radiator too, the slant cars had a smaller opening on them - in some years.
Take into consideration that my motor was .060 over, making for thinner cyl walls (= more heat).
I put in a 68 dart 3 core radiator, shroud, and 7 blade solid drive flex fan, same pulley set up. It just barely keeps up with it in hot weather.
I plan to install an AL radiator designed to bolt in this body, I think it was a champion off of ebay I bought (last year) - probably same deal as 737 jet dr has, only its set up to work with the old style CI pump outlet etc. I am quite sure this will cool the motor, its designed to handle up to 700 Hp - lots more than mine !
Bottom line - cut to the chase and get something over engineered for cooling. You wont regret it. I have thrown a lot of $ at getting this thing "right" - use my experience !
Keep in mind as well that you may need to open the core support to the "right" size for the radiator too, the slant cars had a smaller opening on them - in some years.
DonPal
Well-Known Member
Exactly my sentiments.....do it once ...right & sure....
Throwing money and time in small amounts over & over adds up.
The Quanta radiator is made by Cool Craft Components, 4423 District Boulevard, Vernon, Ca. 90058. Email [email protected] http:/www.coolcraft.com
Their logo....High Performance Radiators that look & fit right.
Worked for my 65 Dart & my daughter's 65 Dart
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