64 SRT8 Dart
Well-Known Member
Okay okay, up for sale again is my 66 Valiant Signet. Was a /6 car but previous owner put in a 273/904. Well that was worn out so I built the 318 and 904 that's in it now.
Engine: 70 or 71yr block(can't remember) from a Duster.
Bored .030", honed with torque plate.
Decked .020"
Align honed
ARP main studs
Rods resized, rebushed, ARP bolts
Pistons are Cast flat tops w/slight reliefs
Cast crank ground .010 on rods and .030 on mains/ Clevite bearings.
Rotating assembly balanced.
Summit Racing Pro/Street Harmonic Balancer
Camshaft: CompCams XE268.
Cloyes double roller timing set.
Smith Bro's pushrods
Crane Gold 1.5 ratio rockers
Heads 973 smog units w/cut 60cc chambers, new 1.75/1.5 I/E valves, 3 angle v/j, new guides, cut and viton seals used. Also, have a gasket match and mild port/bowl cleanup. Spring pressure and height set at specs for use with cam.
Compression is a little over 9:1
Edelbrock Performer intake with port faces machined down to fit heads better, Powdercoated silver.
Holley SB 650DP
Mopar black wrinkle V/C's and matching air cleaner base/lid.
Factory MP electronic distributor.
Hooker Supercomp 5208 headers/partial fenderwell.
3/8 oil passages opened up to 1/2" in block/rear main cap, and standard oil pump.
Carries 12-15lbs at idle in heavy traffic with temp gauge at 185-190. 70lbs cold. Carries good throughout rpm range when hot. Using Valvoline VR1 20w50 race oil and K&N filter.
Runs typically around 180....has a 180 t-stat as well.
Engine has a 7qt aluminum custom made oil pan on it currently made by me. I have the factory pan and pickup that will go with the car.
904 Trans from 71 Duster:
Kolene Steels
Alto Red frictions
Billet sonnax reverse servo
4.2 K/d lever
Red lined kickdown and reverse bands from A&A
New seals, gaskets, filter, etc.
TF2 shift kit
CAT SFI flex plate
2500 convertor (remanned stock to stall higher) I've stalled it to 2000 before it starts turning one tire, lol. With a good set of radials and a sure grip, it may go to 24-2500.
Shifts great.
Driveshaft has new u-joints front and back.
Has a new Champion 4row monster radiator.
Stock 7 1/4 rear with 3.23 open gears.
Exhaust consists of 18" tubes to Thrush welded mufflers(flowmaster knock-offs)
Engine and Trans have approximately 3500 mi on em.
The front end was completely revamped about 2 years ago with Dillinger tubular lower control arms, RMS tubular upper control arms, QA1 coil overs, Dillinger shock tower hoop kit, new PST ball joints, idler and pitman arms, inner and outer rods and sleeves. 76 Dart spindles and a dr. diff dual reservoir master cylinder were added for manual disc brakes. Manual steering box was disassembled, cleaned, and new seals and grease put in.
With the coil over conversion, this car has no torsion bars. I REPEAT, this car has NO torsion bars.
Wheels up front are Centerline Convo Pros 15x6. They need a deep polishing as brake dust has diminished the look. Probably have to take them somewhere to have it done.
I have the matching rears that are 15x12 that will go with the car as well.
The body on the car is solid but has quite a few flaws due to work from the previous owner. It mostly needs rear quarters. They were patched once before but the work is showing bubbles, and some of the filler is coming out. Also, he filled the emblem and trim holes with filler as well.
The frame is solid. When front end work was done, what rust was in the front rails was taken out then the frame boxed for strength. I've driven daily driven it for 2years now with this done and have zero problems. The trunk pan and all floor pans are solid and still have the factory undercoating under them. Doors are solid, front fenders are 99%. There are some bubbles on top of the driver fender. They've been there since I bought the car and I think it may be some sort of filler that wasn't sanded when he did the bodywork.
The vinyl top on the car is starting to get those tiny little cracks in it here and there but still cleans up nice.
The interior is in okay shape. Has a newer headliner, newer carpet, dash pad was recovered with vinyl as well as the package tray. All gauges work with exception to the ammeter as I bypassed that per instructions on this site. The wires were done right with solder and shrink tubing as well. As of now there is an aftermarket oil pressure and water temp gauge(cheap Equus gauges) and a AutoMeter Sport Comp tach. The driver seat has a seam that's came apart and the top left has vinyl cracking away from sun damage. The pass seat just has a small crack in the vinyl on the bottom. The rear seat has several seams that just dried out and came apart. Overall it still looks decent. Wipers work good and all windows roll up and down with no problems. The driver side door lock needs repinned. Pass side lock works. The doors open and close good as well. Hood and trunk open smoothly. The front bumper has a few distortions and the rear bumper is bent pretty good on the bottom but have a straight spare for it. The grilles are in fair condition and could probably be restored.
The paint polishes up okay and is a good 20 footer.
Overall, the cars runs, drives, and looks good. I get thumbs up and compliments EVERY day and I'm sure I may be being hard on the description of the car as I want the buyer to know all the little and large imperfections.
I have driven this thing everyday for over 3yrs with the 273 and now with the 318 and has been reliable through and through.
Right now I kinda feel sorry for the car as it really needs an owner with a garage who can give it a full TLC restoration and I'm wanting something newer at this point in my life as a daily driver. Just don't have room for both right now living in an apartment. It would be a tragedy if the car got hit while driving it in the winters and such; then the work done will have been for nothing.
I do have several extras that go with the car as well. A manual floor shift steering column, several sets of tail light lenses and an extra pair of housings. Black pillar trim as I was going to convert the interior from red to black. An 8 3//4 truck housing I was going to cut down for it. Custom aluminum battery box. Competition Engineering 12 point conversion roll cage(need either the 6 or 8 pt to begin with).
I do have pics and other details under (My 1966 Valiant Effort) In the members resto forum. Link:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=188219&highlight=1966+Valiant+Effort
Gonna shoot high here at $6500 obo.
Car is located in Colorado Springs, CO.
Engine: 70 or 71yr block(can't remember) from a Duster.
Bored .030", honed with torque plate.
Decked .020"
Align honed
ARP main studs
Rods resized, rebushed, ARP bolts
Pistons are Cast flat tops w/slight reliefs
Cast crank ground .010 on rods and .030 on mains/ Clevite bearings.
Rotating assembly balanced.
Summit Racing Pro/Street Harmonic Balancer
Camshaft: CompCams XE268.
Cloyes double roller timing set.
Smith Bro's pushrods
Crane Gold 1.5 ratio rockers
Heads 973 smog units w/cut 60cc chambers, new 1.75/1.5 I/E valves, 3 angle v/j, new guides, cut and viton seals used. Also, have a gasket match and mild port/bowl cleanup. Spring pressure and height set at specs for use with cam.
Compression is a little over 9:1
Edelbrock Performer intake with port faces machined down to fit heads better, Powdercoated silver.
Holley SB 650DP
Mopar black wrinkle V/C's and matching air cleaner base/lid.
Factory MP electronic distributor.
Hooker Supercomp 5208 headers/partial fenderwell.
3/8 oil passages opened up to 1/2" in block/rear main cap, and standard oil pump.
Carries 12-15lbs at idle in heavy traffic with temp gauge at 185-190. 70lbs cold. Carries good throughout rpm range when hot. Using Valvoline VR1 20w50 race oil and K&N filter.
Runs typically around 180....has a 180 t-stat as well.
Engine has a 7qt aluminum custom made oil pan on it currently made by me. I have the factory pan and pickup that will go with the car.
904 Trans from 71 Duster:
Kolene Steels
Alto Red frictions
Billet sonnax reverse servo
4.2 K/d lever
Red lined kickdown and reverse bands from A&A
New seals, gaskets, filter, etc.
TF2 shift kit
CAT SFI flex plate
2500 convertor (remanned stock to stall higher) I've stalled it to 2000 before it starts turning one tire, lol. With a good set of radials and a sure grip, it may go to 24-2500.
Shifts great.
Driveshaft has new u-joints front and back.
Has a new Champion 4row monster radiator.
Stock 7 1/4 rear with 3.23 open gears.
Exhaust consists of 18" tubes to Thrush welded mufflers(flowmaster knock-offs)
Engine and Trans have approximately 3500 mi on em.
The front end was completely revamped about 2 years ago with Dillinger tubular lower control arms, RMS tubular upper control arms, QA1 coil overs, Dillinger shock tower hoop kit, new PST ball joints, idler and pitman arms, inner and outer rods and sleeves. 76 Dart spindles and a dr. diff dual reservoir master cylinder were added for manual disc brakes. Manual steering box was disassembled, cleaned, and new seals and grease put in.
With the coil over conversion, this car has no torsion bars. I REPEAT, this car has NO torsion bars.
Wheels up front are Centerline Convo Pros 15x6. They need a deep polishing as brake dust has diminished the look. Probably have to take them somewhere to have it done.
I have the matching rears that are 15x12 that will go with the car as well.
The body on the car is solid but has quite a few flaws due to work from the previous owner. It mostly needs rear quarters. They were patched once before but the work is showing bubbles, and some of the filler is coming out. Also, he filled the emblem and trim holes with filler as well.
The frame is solid. When front end work was done, what rust was in the front rails was taken out then the frame boxed for strength. I've driven daily driven it for 2years now with this done and have zero problems. The trunk pan and all floor pans are solid and still have the factory undercoating under them. Doors are solid, front fenders are 99%. There are some bubbles on top of the driver fender. They've been there since I bought the car and I think it may be some sort of filler that wasn't sanded when he did the bodywork.
The vinyl top on the car is starting to get those tiny little cracks in it here and there but still cleans up nice.
The interior is in okay shape. Has a newer headliner, newer carpet, dash pad was recovered with vinyl as well as the package tray. All gauges work with exception to the ammeter as I bypassed that per instructions on this site. The wires were done right with solder and shrink tubing as well. As of now there is an aftermarket oil pressure and water temp gauge(cheap Equus gauges) and a AutoMeter Sport Comp tach. The driver seat has a seam that's came apart and the top left has vinyl cracking away from sun damage. The pass seat just has a small crack in the vinyl on the bottom. The rear seat has several seams that just dried out and came apart. Overall it still looks decent. Wipers work good and all windows roll up and down with no problems. The driver side door lock needs repinned. Pass side lock works. The doors open and close good as well. Hood and trunk open smoothly. The front bumper has a few distortions and the rear bumper is bent pretty good on the bottom but have a straight spare for it. The grilles are in fair condition and could probably be restored.
The paint polishes up okay and is a good 20 footer.
Overall, the cars runs, drives, and looks good. I get thumbs up and compliments EVERY day and I'm sure I may be being hard on the description of the car as I want the buyer to know all the little and large imperfections.
I have driven this thing everyday for over 3yrs with the 273 and now with the 318 and has been reliable through and through.
Right now I kinda feel sorry for the car as it really needs an owner with a garage who can give it a full TLC restoration and I'm wanting something newer at this point in my life as a daily driver. Just don't have room for both right now living in an apartment. It would be a tragedy if the car got hit while driving it in the winters and such; then the work done will have been for nothing.
I do have several extras that go with the car as well. A manual floor shift steering column, several sets of tail light lenses and an extra pair of housings. Black pillar trim as I was going to convert the interior from red to black. An 8 3//4 truck housing I was going to cut down for it. Custom aluminum battery box. Competition Engineering 12 point conversion roll cage(need either the 6 or 8 pt to begin with).
I do have pics and other details under (My 1966 Valiant Effort) In the members resto forum. Link:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=188219&highlight=1966+Valiant+Effort
Gonna shoot high here at $6500 obo.
Car is located in Colorado Springs, CO.
