1967 273 Commando Connecting Rods

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madmaximum

madmaximum

CA-HWY9 Road Race Rebel
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Location
Santa Cruz, Cali
George @ Fat Boys Auto Machine in Salinas, CA (Owner of a 67 Charger)
has my Crank, Rods & Pistons...

He claims that these "Skinny Rods" are "The Ones to Have"
they are lighter and plenty strong...

I spun 3 Rod Bearings and threw a bunch of Copper & Steel through my Engine!*!*! Woops. Still Not really sure how or why?!

All I know it he want to rebuild them for $160 instead of Order new Eagle I-Beams like I had Originally planned.

My car is to be a Windy California Mountian Road Menace and Auto Crosser... Running a not far from stock set-up otherwise
 
Go with the Eagle 'SIR' rods (I-beams). They're good up to 500 hp., come with good rod bolts and NO resizing, which is what you'll have to do with the others. Not to mention that they are new.
 
my car is never gonna make more that 350 HP...

Eagle "SIR" I-Beams are $280 ish

that is $120 my car will not see anywhere else. Money is tight and I have lots of other stuff to but for the car... He said that the 67-69 273 rods are lighter and therefore easier on all my parts including HP! Rotational weight is a *****... I do not need 500HP rated shiny new rods.. I don't think

Who has built 273s for Mean Street abuse? Accepting advice.

Who has re-built rods? Also accepting advice from you too..

So to sum it up I am not sure those Eagles are the Higher performing Rods for my Application and Needs. and they are half again as expensive... This guy is a Mopar racer from way back but he is also banking on making the Labor $$$$$$$ or re-working my "Skinny Rods." Vague Non-specific advice on spend more money for the burliest parts is not what I am looking for...
 
I had a 273 4bbl and it loved to rev! I never had rod problems, or bearings either. If you get the rods re-sized and checked they should be good to go. I have seen the 2bbl motors snap a rod, over revved the thing I was told. If I was going to put it together I'd use the new sir rods. Build a rock solid bottom end. Maybe try to find light pistons to make up the weight difference. At least use the strongest rod bolts you can on the old rods. I'd hate to tear a new motor apart for a $120.00.
 
I'd say save your money and put it into something that will make you competitive. I autocrossed for 20 years. Depending on the course and the gearing in the car you'll only see a bit south of 4800 RPM in most cases and that will be in short spurts. Nothing wrong with the 273 rods. If you want a little lighter setup run a lighter pin. There are several other 273 people on here that can you some information.
 
Robbie2734 said:
I had a 273 4bbl and it loved to rev! I never had rod problems, or bearings either. If you get the rods re-sized and checked they should be good to go. I have seen the 2bbl motors snap a rod, over revved the thing I was told. If I was going to put it together I'd use the new sir rods. Build a rock solid bottom end. Maybe try to find light pistons to make up the weight difference. At least use the strongest rod bolts you can on the old rods. I'd hate to tear a new motor apart for a $120.00.
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Good point. I think a teardown gasket set is more than $120... Hmmm.

dart4forte said:
I'd say save your money and put it into something that will make you competitive. I autocrossed for 20 years. Depending on the course and the gearing in the car you'll only see a bit south of 4800 RPM in most cases and that will be in short spurts. Nothing wrong with the 273 rods. If you want a little lighter setup run a lighter pin. There are several other 273 people on here that can you some information.
Click to expand...

Where do you find Lighter Wrist pins?!?!?! *Excited about that* They are ridiculously heavy!!! One popped out its clip and gouged a channel into the cylinder wall.. that was how I got the car and then Sleeved and Fully rebuilt The Block. That was about 8,000 Miles ago. Now here we are again... I am gonna get a windage tray cause I do a phenominal job of keeping my car on the sidewalls here in the Santa Cruz Mountians... Hopefully help the Pickup Doing its thing and keep my girl all Wet inside:sign10:
 
Highway 9 is my Stomping grounds though... and I like "THE BOSS" so that song always plays in my head when I turn onto it.

"Highway 9 to the RedLine. Tramps like us... Baby we where BORN TO RUN!"

Yeah now I live in Monterey County and Go play around in Marina/Fort Ord. Lots of abandoned Roadways with a 50 MPH limit and empty parking lots. I am practicing what I refer to as the "Catch and Release" Program. Basically Drifting the **** out of my car.

Yank wheel
Release wheel
Catch wheel
Repeatedly STAB Throttle
and see how many turns in a row you can do that for while my Sure-Grip and 245s are Hard at work Somewhere way behind my mind.

Where do you live? Let's go for a RIP if you want to sometime. I have a buddy with a 69 Dart GT 225/6 that has Clifford Headers & Intake a T-Bird Indi-rear 255s and Wilwood 6/4 Piston discs. They Look SOOOO GOOD together. His is the Woman though for sure. Younger prettier and Cosmetically Concious.
 
GTXperience said:
What is your machinist charging you to recon the rods (incl. new bolts)? Are you going to B&B the motor?
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He is charging $160 for rod resizing. Also $45 for bolts or $60 for ARPs.
so for $80 more I can have Eagle SIR I-Beams with ARPs and guarantee that the rods wont snap and poke through the NUMBERS MATCHING 273 Commando Block!

um what exactly do you mean by B&B?

8,000 Miles ago I did a bottom end rebuild. Hot Tanked, New pistons, Cam, Timing gears & Chain, Rod-Main-Cam bearings, Rings, Honed (Sleeved one cylinder)

So I aint needin to do that **** no mo...
 
Hunt around on the net a bit for the SIR rods before you make a decision. I think I saw them for more like $230 the other day but I can't remember where.
 
couldny help notice,but carshopinc.com has the SIR6123C3B for 229$
 
hi, if you install eagles SIR rods, you have to rebalance the crank, as they are 120 gms lighter each! this is not a cheap way to go! resizing and bolts is way cheaper. he seems a bit high on his labor though. the 273 rod is more than enough rod for a 273 motor. I ran a 273 stocker years ago, turned it 7000 rpm without any problems. the material is very good in the rod. just food for thought.
 
how much do stock 273 rods weigh?(grams) the SIR's are advertised at 605 grams.:-k
 
an accusump will be a valuable part to add to your car for that type of driving or a high dollar oil pan.welll worth the money and wil keep the engine oiled in the tight corners
 
Cool thanks, what do you mean by target? is that to keep low end? sorry 4 my ignorance but I'm trying to figure out all this "rotating mass physics stuff":read2:
 
target is the usual range on weights of rods. i have weighed lots of mopar small block rods, this is the range I have found them to be in.
 
thanks again,does a heavier rotating asembly really give a car more torque off the line? or is that all up to the way the engines tuned?
 
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