1967 barracuda bucket seat adjust

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clementine

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Hellooooooooo FABO.

I did try to use search function...... just so ya know.

Aformentioned 67 fastback buckets.

Without carpet in car and seat placed for first time......

Im 6'2" and my head is too close to roof.

If i move mounting studs forward, effectively moving seat backwards, i might gain a skoosh of headroom.

Any tips/tricks to stud removal before i get out the 2#?

Or....

pie cut seat brackets?

Or......(insert suggestion)

TIA

Ol Clem

20240606_132807.jpg


20240606_132815.jpg
 
Well im here to say that pressing out those mounting studs might require some heat.

Or i cut em off and get another to use the hole i want.

I thought these tracks were tough to find, i figured a pure hearted mopar head would have called the negotiation team by now with a few suggestions......seein how i have oxy/acetalyn and I'm not afraid to use it!!

Im patient......been sitting here for 8 yrs getting to this point....but i digress.

A100 van seat tracks?
 
The risers on there look like they're, what, 3-4" tall?
1717710241766.png

Looks like it would be easy enough to unbolt the risers from the sliders and attach something like 2" angle in place of them, drilled to the original floor holes, and gain yourself a couple inches of headroom.
1717710503647.png

(Borrowed pictures, so pardon me if they're incorrect.)
 
The risers on there look like they're, what, 3-4" tall?
View attachment 1716259407
Looks like it would be easy enough to unbolt the risers from the sliders and attach something like 2" angle in place of them, drilled to the original floor holes, and gain yourself a couple inches of headroom.
View attachment 1716259410
(Borrowed pictures, so pardon me if they're incorrect.)
I like this idea.

Makes sense.
 
New info.

Risers are heavy duty rivet situation....

Might have to drill em out.

Hmmmmmm

1717711655956867942035.jpg
 
Regarding the studs that go through the floor, a few of mine were badly rusted and I was able to press them out of the bases using my bench vice with a socket on the head side. It slightly mangled the base but it went back in shape fairly easily. Some heat added wouldn’t be a bad idea and use nuts to protect the threads if you’re reusing them. I replaced the studs with some grade 8 carriage bolts that I welded in.

I was discussing this with a restorer the other day. Mine were in the middle holes on each end and he had a set that used the front holes. We speculated that the factory probably used the middle holes and that the selling dealer might move them if requested by a shorter or taller driver.

The configuration of my seat bases (‘67 Barracuda) are different than the first picture in post#6. I’m not sure what the OP’s seat bases look like.
 
Regarding the studs that go through the floor, a few of mine were badly rusted and I was able to press them out of the bases using my bench vice with a socket on the head side. It slightly mangled the base but it went back in shape fairly easily. Some heat added wouldn’t be a bad idea and use nuts to protect the threads if you’re reusing them. I replaced the studs with some grade 8 carriage bolts that I welded in.

I was discussing this with a restorer the other day. Mine were in the middle holes on each end and he had a set that used the front holes. We speculated that the factory probably used the middle holes and that the selling dealer might move them if requested by a shorter or taller driver.

The configuration of my seat bases (‘67 Barracuda) are different than the first picture in post#6. I’m not sure what the OP’s seat bases look like.
Post #6 second picture are the same as mine in post #1.

Thank you for the response, may I ask if you went with the front holes?

I think Ill try harder to press those puppies out........
 
Try putting spacers between the seat track and the floor one the front two bolts only, effectively reclining the seat a little.


Alan
 
I’m using the middle holes for now, which I hope will work for me since I’m average height, but I can’t really test them out since my car is a shell right now. It had non-mopar seats in it when I bought it.
 
Still need to install my buckets, but I've been trying to get the right tracks at a reasonable cost. I'm also tall and would like the seat to go farther back/lower. Since I'm the only one that drives my car, I've thought about just making some fixed "tracks" out of square tubing and drilling holes where they fit best for me. Maybe even slotting the holes so there is some adjustablity with a wrench.
 
Still need to install my buckets, but I've been trying to get the right tracks at a reasonable cost. I'm also tall and would like the seat to go farther back/lower. Since I'm the only one that drives my car, I've thought about just making some fixed "tracks" out of square tubing and drilling holes where they fit best for me. Maybe even slotting the holes so there is some adjustablity with a wrench.
I am going to try the most forward holes on the tracks and put a spacer under the front two studs to 'lean back' a smidge as @Cuda Al suggested earlier.

If I go down the road of fabrication, you can get some inexpensive sliders and mount them on whatever type of riser you choose. I hesitate to go 'fixed' as .........ya never know......
 
I moved the studs

Ill place and shim today sometime.

I need to finish up some wiring under dash first.

17177731703712057827698.jpg
 
The biggest factor in head room is probably the condition of your seat foams and springs. I never had head room issues in my fastback with the original bench seat, then I replaced it with junkyard 67 buckets that I recovered. I had the studs in the front holes because I'm tall, but I actually sat very low in the car because the foams and springs were well worn. I could wear a fedora or even a cowboy hat. Years later I had the opportunity to buy a freshly restored bench so I went with it, but I found in the stock mounting location my head was touching the headliner — the car was practically undriveable. So I made a pair of plates to relocate the tracks rearward by 2-1/2 inches (the bench seat mounting locations are sloped, so rear = lower). Now at least I can see out the windshield. Maybe in another 20 years the seat cushions will settle to a reasonable height. I think part of the problem was that the guy who had this seat reupholstered weighed at least 280, and I weigh less than 150.

My father's convertible had 1" wooden risers under the bucket seat tracks on the driver's seat. These were apparently installed by dealers if the buyer wanted a higher seating position. My father was 6'3" but he drove it like that, probably because the seats were beaten down (he bought the car in 1978), plus he weighed over 200lbs. I removed them when I inherited the car. Anyway, you could cut a riser strip on a slant to lower the back of the seat relative to the front. Basically, it's where your butt sits that sets your head height — the front edge of the cushion is just thigh support (since I have skinny thighs I like having the front edge higher — some people may find this creates too tight a squeeze to the steering wheel).

I think a solid riser would be better than a single spacer at one end, because if the track flexes in the middle it would jam. But maybe it's heavy enough steel that this isn't a problem. I have been fiddling with the tracks on an MG for similar reasons, and they will definitely jam unless perfectly aligned and square.
 
The biggest factor in head room is probably the condition of your seat foams and springs. I never had head room issues in my fastback with the original bench seat, then I replaced it with junkyard 67 buckets that I recovered. I had the studs in the front holes because I'm tall, but I actually sat very low in the car because the foams and springs were well worn. I could wear a fedora or even a cowboy hat. Years later I had the opportunity to buy a freshly restored bench so I went with it, but I found in the stock mounting location my head was touching the headliner — the car was practically undriveable. So I made a pair of plates to relocate the tracks rearward by 2-1/2 inches (the bench seat mounting locations are sloped, so rear = lower). Now at least I can see out the windshield. Maybe in another 20 years the seat cushions will settle to a reasonable height. I think part of the problem was that the guy who had this seat reupholstered weighed at least 280, and I weigh less than 150.

My father's convertible had 1" wooden risers under the bucket seat tracks on the driver's seat. These were apparently installed by dealers if the buyer wanted a higher seating position. My father was 6'3" but he drove it like that, probably because the seats were beaten down (he bought the car in 1978), plus he weighed over 200lbs. I removed them when I inherited the car. Anyway, you could cut a riser strip on a slant to lower the back of the seat relative to the front. Basically, it's where your butt sits that sets your head height — the front edge of the cushion is just thigh support (since I have skinny thighs I like having the front edge higher — some people may find this creates too tight a squeeze to the steering wheel).

I think a solid riser would be better than a single spacer at one end, because if the track flexes in the middle it would jam. But maybe it's heavy enough steel that this isn't a problem. I have been fiddling with the tracks on an MG for similar reasons, and they will definitely jam unless perfectly aligned and square.
These seats are in good condition so i believe you are correct in that the foam is still not worn in.

I put the studs forward effectively sliding the seat back. Ill use spacers for now, as suggested above to see if the tilt is in my favor.

A little more wiring and the spacer setup will be tested.

Thanks for the information, it has not fallen on deaf ears.
 
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