**pending**
I've decided too let my 67 FB go. This was the car that I was going to keep forever, but I just don’t have the time, money or will to complete the project.
Right now, I’m driving it daily; it’s a pleasure. Inspection and registration in Texas good until 1/25. Clear Texas title in my name.
My plan was to make a no frills, reliable daily driver that handles and brakes more like a modern car and then finish it off with a new engine. I got to almost everything except the engine. Drop in your engine/trans of choice and have a really nice car, or cruise with the original.
I’ve had it since June 2019; I believe I’m the third owner. From what I was told, the original family had it for 50+ years. The selling dealer was Louscher Motors in Lake Park, Iowa. The ceritcard is still present as is the fender tag.
$18,000. I’m not interested in trades at this time.
Engine/Trans-
I’d rather sell in person, but I have shipped a number of cars and am familiar with the process.
I’d be weary about putting an antique car on an open carrier. It has not seen a single drop of water the entire time I’ve owned it, and a leak somewhere is possible.
More pictures coming. I have many if you want to see anything specific
I've decided too let my 67 FB go. This was the car that I was going to keep forever, but I just don’t have the time, money or will to complete the project.
Right now, I’m driving it daily; it’s a pleasure. Inspection and registration in Texas good until 1/25. Clear Texas title in my name.
My plan was to make a no frills, reliable daily driver that handles and brakes more like a modern car and then finish it off with a new engine. I got to almost everything except the engine. Drop in your engine/trans of choice and have a really nice car, or cruise with the original.
I’ve had it since June 2019; I believe I’m the third owner. From what I was told, the original family had it for 50+ years. The selling dealer was Louscher Motors in Lake Park, Iowa. The ceritcard is still present as is the fender tag.
$18,000. I’m not interested in trades at this time.
Engine/Trans-
- The original 273/904 runs good, is reliable, and has not once failed to start in five years. It’s no drag racing machine, but good for cruising. Sounds like it has a slight miss at idle, but I suspect that 58 year old cam has just gotten a little worn over time. I’ve run high zinc oil since I’ve had it. Starts with a flick of the key when driven regularly.
- I replaced the heads with 302’s four years ago. ARP head bolts used. I also replaced the timing chain at that time. Valves were adjusted a couple hundred miles ago
- The bottom end has never been apart
- I recently replaced the freeze plugs & oil pan gasket, and the engine does not currently leak anything.
- Trans pan and filter replaced maybe 500 miles ago. Selector shaft seal and neutral safety switch were also replaced
- Ignition is MSD 6a box, pro billet distributor and wires
- The radiator is the original which was serviced by Seattle Radiator a few years back
- I’m using a Bouschillon throttle bracket and kickdown setup
- Air cleaner is an unsilenced unit from a 68 or 9(?) that I rescued and decided to leave beat up
- QA1 upper & lower control arms, K Member, Sway Bar, adjustable strut rods and camber bolts
- Poly bushings all around except LCA
- Hotchkis/Fox shocks
- Hotchkis Leaf springs
- Front hanger reinforcement plate from AR Engineering
- Firm Feel heavy duty shackles
- Firm Feel 1.06” torsion bars
- Proforged tie rod ends and adjusting sleeves
- PST fast ratio manual steering box
- Steering coupler rebuilt with grease zerk installed
- Hotchkis subframe connectors
- Alignment done recently by Soulspeed Performance, Kyle, TX
- 7 1/4 rear end was replaced with a B-Body width Strange S60 with 3.23 gears and a Trac-lok differential
- It is nearing the end of its break in period and needs the fluid changed soon. I may or may not get to it before the car sells
- Driveshaft is the original that was cut down by Scotty’s driveshaft in Austin. Conversion U-Joints for the Dana 60
- 18 x 8.5, 35mm offset, Enkei Racing PF01 on all four corners with 255/40-18 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires
- Front rims were machined to fit Dr. Diff’s hub that came with the brake setup.
- Looks like it was resprayed once, easily 20+ years ago. Plenty of rock chips and small imperfections. It’s not the best paint job, but it looks great from 10 feet. It photographs well. You will attract attention in this car. I don’t know what’s under the paint, but the previous owner said there are no major rust repairs and that was a big part of the reason I bought it. I can’t see any rust on the body
- Paint underhood, in the trunk, door jambs and on the bottom of the rockers is factory
- There is a some filler evident on the very bottom of the fenders. Given what I’ve seen on the rest of the car, I don’t think they were rusty, I think it was half-assed prep work
- Everything (except the driver mirror and antenna plug) on the outside of the car is original, and there is some pitting in the chrome
- Floors are solid
- The car was undercoated heavily; it was even underneath the rocker panels (some remnants are still there.) I was determined to remove all of it, but only made it as far as the trunk area. I went over the entire bottom of the car and scraped the areas where it was thin or flaking off, and then sealed the bare metal with Eastwood rust encapsulator. The thick stuff is still doing its job, so I left it
- The footwells in the front have POR-15 on them
- I used a bunch of Eastwood internal frame coating to preserve the car for the future
- There is some pitting on the sides of the trunk floor from where either the rear window or old trunk gasket leaked before I owned the car. It is still solid. I cleaned the offending areas, sealed with rust encapsulator and was planning to paint it body color
- From the trunk divider forward to the rear foot wells:
- original seam sealer replaced
- sealed with rust preventative
- covered in Kilmat sound deadener
- see pictures
- Rubber parts replaced: radiator to hood seal, cowl to hood, all the body bumpers, trunk gasket, door end seal, motor mounts, trans mount
- Dr. Diff’s manual Cobra disc setup 13” front and 11” back Mopar Cobra-style 13" Front Disc Brake Kit (Stage 3)
- All new lines, 15/16” master cylinder, steel braided hoses, ’73 up reproduction disc brake knuckles and new distribution block
- Fluid is Motul 600 DOT 3
- Upgraded parking brake cable
- Fuel system completely replaced including tank, lines, pump, sending unit, filler neck, tank strap and J bolt
- There are gas stations around here that sell E0 gas, so the system has never seen a drop of ethanol!
- Edelbrock AVS2 650, electric choke
- All wiring harnesses (with the exception of the steering column, which is in nice shape) were replaced with M&H pieces, including the passenger side courtesy light harness
- No wiring hack jobs. Good solid crimps (hydraulic on the heavier gauge stuff) with uninsulated butt connectors, dielectric grease and heat shrink
- Ammeter wires spliced together. I ran the red wire directly through the bulkhead connector
- 6-gauge welding cable wire around from alternator to starter relay with 10-gauge fusible link
- Crackedback’s headlight relay harness
- Every bulb in the car (except 2 instrument cluster and the license plate light) is LED, with the correct grounded flashers
- Headlights are Phillips H6024LED
- Headlight switch is a new Echlin replacement, ignition switch is NOS, wiper switch is original
- Optima Red Top battery
- I installed a Flaming River kill switch next to the battery
- 60 amp squareback alternator with adjustable voltage regulator
- Circuit board in the instrument cluster was replaced with a new one from Mr. Heaterbox
- Factory ammeter, oil pressure and temperature gauges work, but are disconnected
- Current gauges are Autometer
- I have the gas gauge calibrated with a Meter match. It’s not perfect, but works pretty well
- A Painless auxiliary fuse block under the dash powers the aftermarket gauges, electric choke and meter match. There is a slot or two left for future power needs.
- New mini starter 6 months ago
- Performance indicator vacuum gauge replaced with a tachometer
- Driver’s seat doesn’t have much foam left in the bottom
- The headliner still looks nice
- Original chrome parts have some pitting
- Carpet has a tear up near the console, but you might not notice it if I didn’t point it out to you
- There’s no use for a heater here, so I removed the old heater box. Blower motor hole is covered with a plate from AR engineering. The control is still in the dash
- The car originally had a dealer installed a/c unit, which is long gone. The decal is still on the back of the car, and the holes are in the firewall
- I removed the AM radio and replaced it with a delete plate from a 72. I have the radio and it worked fine when I took it out. You’ll need an antenna and speaker if you want to reconnect it
- Dash has some cracks
- All the glass appears original and has the Chrysler markings. There are some scratches
- Window mechanisms work as they should
- The windshield and rear window gaskets appear to be the correct 1967 style, but the lock strips are missing.
- Outer cat whiskers replaced on rear windows. Inners still look ok, so I left them
- I have the cat whiskers for the front that I’ll include with the sale
- The fan belt gives a squeak on startup
- The Hotchkis leaf springs are a bit squeaky sometimes (not the bushings.) I like how the car sits, so I was willing to overlook it
- The front torque boxes need finished
- Missing one of the plastic air vents in the bottom of the passenger side door
- I accidentally broke off a tab on the driver side courtesy light on the sail panel. Currently held up with tape
- Front wheels need center caps fabricated
- The body bumper in the rear fenderwell needs reattached. The bolt head broke off
- A box of Kilmat sound deadener, which should be enough to give you a good start on the front half of the floor pan
- Cat whiskers for the front windows
- A very cool set of Acura TL floor mats that I stole from my wife’s car years ago
- Some of the wiring harnesses that were removed
- Original AM radio
- I fabricated a “heater delete” vent box for the passenger side out of an old heater box. It should work, I just wanted to paint it first
- A bunch of stuff I’ve removed from the car
I’d rather sell in person, but I have shipped a number of cars and am familiar with the process.
I’d be weary about putting an antique car on an open carrier. It has not seen a single drop of water the entire time I’ve owned it, and a leak somewhere is possible.
More pictures coming. I have many if you want to see anything specific
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