1967 Dodge Dart Post

-
N

Norm.P

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2018
Messages
79
Reaction score
74
Location
SF Bay area (East bay)
I've been lurking on this site for many years. I live in the SF Bay Area and I have a 67 slant 6 Dart Post that I drive about twice a week. The car is completely bone stock. It runs great. I want to begin to upgrade the vehicle from suspension, motor, brakes etc.

The problem is I don't know where to start. What part of the car do I begin to upgrade first? For example, should I convert to big bolt pattern first? I would like to continue to drive the vehicle I don't want it out of commission for a long period of time.

My idea for the car would be a street machine. It doesn't need to be a world beater although I would like to spin tires. Maybe a traffic light warrior? I would probably take it for long drives. Horsepower and torque 250-300HP, not really sure about operating range of torque.

From browsing the site, it seems the consensus would be:

Motor - 318 or 360 LA or Magnum

Trans - Overdrive 200r4 or Gear Vendor

Rear end -8 3/4 with 3.23 gears

Rebuild or upgrade suspension.

Not sure where to start first. I really want to keep it simple. Any help would be much appreciated. And thanks to everyone who contributes to this site. You all are some very smart people who could easily have mechanical engineering jobs.

Norm
 
If it's a 6 it has a 7 1/4 rear axle, and if you put much power into that it will die. So you need something bigger. Options depend on price. I am biased. I want a 3rd member rear so I can easily change ratios, but the 8 3/4 is somewhat expensive, and it has no stock easy route to big bolt pattern. "Or cheap." You can go 8 1/4 for a mild build and you can find them--factory--in big pattern.

You can go "cheap" on rear springs. I junked a car, used all the longest leafs out of both spring packs to form 2 new springs with 1 or 2 more leafs than stock. Lucked out, they worked great

You can stay with small pattern but limited on wheel choice. You CAN however find some custom wheels in the small pattern. Me? I would go big.

Suspension. Too many options to name. If you are low budget, you can upgrade with newer stock parts. One "big thing' is that your present K has the dreaded "67 only" idler arm. Since you want to go V8 it would make sense to find a V8 K, 68 or later or 73 or later

AFTER you make the decision on the K, I would get "at least" a factory anti -roll bar and look for larger torsion bars, then rebuild the front end and new shocks and decent tires. You will be amazed how much better the handling becomes
 
If you are going with 3.23 gears there is no real reason for an overdrive trans. Szkillionz of these cars drove all over this country over the years of many thousands of miles with no overdrive. A 904 OD fit-up is no small project
 
The thing... Better to have one that wont go than one that wont stop. Every 67 model slant 6 a-body I have had was 9X3 drums at front, 9X2 drums at rear. In my day, I could buy a wrecked 73 to 75 4 door Valiant, maybe ordered with towing package, for a couple hundred dollars. Yeah it will be more hundreds today but.., a gold mine in bones. I could pull entire suspension out from under it and renew it at my leisure while still driving my car. Then when ready, in a weekend, disc brakes at front, maybe power disc brakes. Two different bolt patterns for a time but still drivable. The engine and the K member with fail safe motor supports and stabilizer bar comes in with the different motor. I can drive right and keep a working rear end until I'm ready to change that, Famous final scene? The car is never down for more than a week. Years later when I need to go to local parts house or Rockauto for something, all I need to know/remember is what the donor was. Today's aftermarket has a lot of stuff that is supposed to be better than OEM but, in my experience, OEM from 73 up is soooo much better than what we started with, we are tickled with the difference.
If you have the coin for high end shock absorbers, larger torsion bars, anything else aftermarket offers, you are improving upon those previous improvements. I personally never needed to go beyond what I used to make my 67 slant 6 drum brake a-body to drive like the 73 up disc brake V8 a-body.
At the same time, you mentioned burning tires. That aint me. Tires aint cheap. I run 4 of same size and rotate them as needed while I ride about looking for that money tree. LOL Good luck with your build.
 
3B85557B-6501-41CF-8AFC-6F6DA9F1863C.jpeg
 
Thanks fellas. It sounds like from what you guys are saying, the first thing I should start with is the suspension, then axles and brakes. Finding wrecking yards in my area with these types of cars are pretty much non-existent. Most of the wrecking yards in my area are late model vehicles, so I think I'll be limited to the internet. After doing research this looks like it's going to be expensive. And I'm not going for top end parts either. Maybe it was better off buying a car that was already done. Ha!
 
With a population like the bay area there has GOT to be sources. Fakebook Marketpharce, local ebay, Craigslist, and whatever "nickel" sales papers in the quick marts. I live in the N end of Idaho----you ought'a try and find parts up here
 
Norm.P said:
Thanks fellas. It sounds like from what you guys are saying, the first thing I should start with is the suspension, then axles and brakes. Finding wrecking yards in my area with these types of cars are pretty much non-existent. Most of the wrecking yards in my area are late model vehicles, so I think I'll be limited to the internet. After doing research this looks like it's going to be expensive. And I'm not going for top end parts either. Maybe it was better off buying a car that was already done. Ha!
Click to expand...
The other thing you could consider is a minor hop-up on the slant...............
 
You say that you drive it a few times per week??

As you drive it, ask yourself what you like the least about driving it.

Lack of power? Start with an engine swap....

Poor handling? Start with suspension upgrades...

YOU are the only person that can give yourself a starting point as far as modifications/upgrades..

If you can't decide where to start, then drive it everyday for a couple of months, then you'll know where to start with upgrades..
 
Tell what your mechanical ability is, what's your budget and what you have at your disposal to accomplish your goals. We could guide you along better with a little more info.
 
1975abody said:
You say that you drive it a few times per week??

As you drive it, ask yourself what you like the least about driving it.

Lack of power? Start with an engine swap....

Poor handling? Start with suspension upgrades...

YOU are the only person that can give yourself a starting point as far as modifications/upgrades..

If you can't decide where to start, then drive it everyday for a couple of months, then you'll know where to start with upgrades..
Click to expand...


I drive it 2-3 times a week. It's old, all original, and is in really good shape (rust free). The interior although old, is in great condition.

What I don't like about it currently:

-Manual steering and too much free play.
-No Power brakes.
-And yes, suspension.
-Honorable mention wheels are too small!

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
 
Scamp Rhonda said:
Tell what your mechanical ability is, what's your budget and what you have at your disposal to accomplish your goals. We could guide you along better with a little more info.
Click to expand...

Still working a budget. I'm not broke, but I aint rich either. Obviously would like to save some money. But I'm not opposed to spending it either. I would have to farm out some of the work.

Mechanical skills- I have all the tools necessary to perform most of the work. I even have a cherry picker that I haven't used in about 20 years. LOL. I can do suspension and brakes and even an engine and tranny swap (I don't really want to because its been a while and help is kind of limited. No one wants to get their hands dirty anymore) but it's gonna save me some money. All the basic things I can do. If it's bolt-on, I'm the guy! Intake, heads etc.

Work I cannot perform - Fabrication. I know how to weld, but I don't have a welder and I don't do it everyday. So I'm not confident. Anything like shortening axle housing I would have to bring to a shop that does that kind of work. Have helped assemble a motor but would never try that on my own and don't have the specialized tools for engine assembly like cam bearing tool and setting cam shaft degree. Plus setting all the tolerances is kind of important. I would leave that to the pros.

The wrecking yards in my area have a lot of running 5.2 Magnums. 5.9's are not rare but I would have to wait for one. They run about 500 bucks or less. I could outfit the motor with LA stuff. There's a complete 273 a guy is selling on Craigslist in my area that I'm interested in for 500 bucks. Also saw a 1955 331 Chrysler first Gen Hemi that would need a complete rebuild. Too rich for me though.
 
Last edited:
67Dart273 said:
With a population like the bay area there has GOT to be sources. Fakebook Marketpharce, local ebay, Craigslist, and whatever "nickel" sales papers in the quick marts. I live in the N end of Idaho----you ought'a try and find parts up here
Click to expand...


Hey I was thinking about moving to Idaho, but I hear Californians are not welcome!! :elmer::lol:
 
Norm.P said:
Still working a budget. I'm not broke, but I aint rich either. Obviously would like to save some money. But I'm not opposed to spending it either. I would have to farm out some of the work.

Mechanical skills- I have all the tools necessary to perform most of the work. I even have a cherry picker that I haven't used in about 20 years. LOL. I can do suspension and brakes and even an engine and tranny swap (I don't really want to because its been a while and help is kind of limited. No one wants to get their hands dirty anymore) but it's gonna save me some money. All the basic things I can do. If it's bolt-on, I'm the guy! Intake, heads etc.

Work I cannot perform - Fabrication. I know how to weld, but I don't have a welder and I don't do it everyday. So I'm not confident. Anything like shortening axle housing I would have to bring to a shop that does that kind of work. Have helped assemble a motor but would never try that on my own and don't have the specialized tools for engine assembly like cam bearing tool and setting cam shaft degree. Plus setting all the tolerances is kind of important. I would leave that to the pros.

The wrecking yards in my area have a lot of running 5.2 Magnums. 5.9's are not rare but I would have to wait for one. They run about 500 bucks or less. I could outfit the motor with LA stuff. There's a complete 273 a guy is selling on Craigslist in my area that I'm interested in for 500 bucks. Also saw a 1955 331 Chrysler first Gen Hemi that would need a complete rebuild. Too rich for me though.
Click to expand...
You sound like the average guy on this site. If I was to start over with my Scamp I would get a 73 and up 8 1/4 rear and also a disc brake set up for the same. This should get you the most bang for your buck. If your willing to take a road trip with a trailer you might be able to find all the parts you need on one car in one place. Sounds like you've got a good choice of engines if you can find the right K frame. The slant could be a lot of fun too. Is it the 225?
 
If you are swapping to an 8 I would find out weather or not you are swapping the K. No point in putting all that suspension on a K member you arent going to use. In saying that if you do go with a 68-73 K you can start building the front suspension on it as well as drop the motor on it.
 
Scamp Rhonda said:
You sound like the average guy on this site. If I was to start over with my Scamp I would get a 73 and up 8 1/4 rear and also a disc brake set up for the same. This should get you the most bang for your buck. If your willing to take a road trip with a trailer you might be able to find all the parts you need on one car in one place. Sounds like you've got a good choice of engines if you can find the right K frame. The slant could be a lot of fun too. Is it the 225?
Click to expand...

The slant is the 225. It runs like a champ. Does not leak, no blow-by and runs very strong. I would like to change the K frame. I was looking at the QA1 K. Kinda pricey, but I'm seriously considering it. The problem is, they dont have slant 6 motor mounts.
 
clementine said:
If you are swapping to an 8 I would find out weather or not you are swapping the K. No point in putting all that suspension on a K member you arent going to use. In saying that if you do go with a 68-73 K you can start building the front suspension on it as well as drop the motor on it.
Click to expand...

I've thought about that idea. I just don't have the room for it in my garage. My wife's car is in the garage as well. I haven't ruled it out though. Thanks!!
 
Norm.P said:
The slant is the 225. It runs like a champ. Does not leak, no blow-by and runs very strong. I would like to change the K frame. I was looking at the QA1 K. Kinda pricey, but I'm seriously considering it. The problem is, they dont have slant 6 motor mounts.
Click to expand...
If you are keeping the slant, I would keep the K and upgrade brakes, inspect bushings, and get a 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 front sway bar. Run it. then I would get a LSD and....run it. So for a second you might be running mis matched wheels if you go to a BBP up front before swapping in diff. See where you are at in your enjoyment level, and do the torsion bars if its not stiff enough up front. Then if you feel like the slant isnt enough power you would have to make the decision of going to an 8 or power adding. these are the steps I would do to keep a car running while working on it. all can be done in an afternoon or two. You could run it with the 6 for awhile after these upgrades but keep in mind your goals. If you want BBP or if you want an 8 as when buying front discs or when swapping diff, you want to spend your money wisely. IMHO you do not need the aftermarket front suspension but it depends on your goals. Aftermarket suspension will give you easier fitment of headers on an 8 but TTI makes headers that fit pretty good, but you will spend money there (700-1K with coating).

The big decision is.....keeping the 6 or going to an 8? I like my 6 in the Duster, but I do feel its underpowered. Its nice though and with just the addition of a big front sway bar I can come into a corner pretty hot and have a lot of fun. Maybe get a sway first? its a big handling upgrade that can be used no matter what you decide. admittedly I went 1 1/4.

$0.02
 
Scamp Rhonda said:
Tell what your mechanical ability is, what's your budget and what you have at your disposal to accomplish your goals. We could guide you along better with a little more info.
Click to expand...
Can't be said better. Sounds like a suspension rebuild along with a brake up grade are things that should be first on the list.
When I found my 63,after a good tune up of the bone stock 170 Slant six,next was brakes and suspension rebuild.I went with the 73 up A body large bolt pattern front discs and a 1974 A body big bolt rear axle with the 10''x2 1/2'' brakes.

I may have missed it but is this a budget build ? It would help us all if we knew if it is or not.
When talking about QA1 and other items that is not what I would call budget, we can lead you into the right direction and better help you.
By the way I'm a big fan of the Slant Six but that is your call.
Please tell us more,long term or short term plans. This sounds like fun.
 
clementine said:
If you are keeping the slant, I would keep the K and upgrade brakes, inspect bushings, and get a 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 front sway bar. Run it. then I would get a LSD and....run it. So for a second you might be running mis matched wheels if you go to a BBP up front before swapping in diff. See where you are at in your enjoyment level, and do the torsion bars if its not stiff enough up front. Then if you feel like the slant isnt enough power you would have to make the decision of going to an 8 or power adding. these are the steps I would do to keep a car running while working on it. all can be done in an afternoon or two. You could run it with the 6 for awhile after these upgrades but keep in mind your goals. If you want BBP or if you want an 8 as when buying front discs or when swapping diff, you want to spend your money wisely. IMHO you do not need the aftermarket front suspension but it depends on your goals. Aftermarket suspension will give you easier fitment of headers on an 8 but TTI makes headers that fit pretty good, but you will spend money there (700-1K with coating).

The big decision is.....keeping the 6 or going to an 8? I like my 6 in the Duster, but I do feel its underpowered. Its nice though and with just the addition of a big front sway bar I can come into a corner pretty hot and have a lot of fun. Maybe get a sway first? its a big handling upgrade that can be used no matter what you decide. admittedly I went 1 1/4.

$0.02
Click to expand...

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
clementine said:
If you are keeping the slant, I would keep the K and upgrade brakes, inspect bushings, and get a 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 front sway bar. Run it. then I would get a LSD and....run it. So for a second you might be running mis matched wheels if you go to a BBP up front before swapping in diff. See where you are at in your enjoyment level, and do the torsion bars if its not stiff enough up front. Then if you feel like the slant isnt enough power you would have to make the decision of going to an 8 or power adding. these are the steps I would do to keep a car running while working on it. all can be done in an afternoon or two. You could run it with the 6 for awhile after these upgrades but keep in mind your goals. If you want BBP or if you want an 8 as when buying front discs or when swapping diff, you want to spend your money wisely. IMHO you do not need the aftermarket front suspension but it depends on your goals. Aftermarket suspension will give you easier fitment of headers on an 8 but TTI makes headers that fit pretty good, but you will spend money there (700-1K with coating).

The big decision is.....keeping the 6 or going to an 8? I like my 6 in the Duster, but I do feel its underpowered. Its nice though and with just the addition of a big front sway bar I can come into a corner pretty hot and have a lot of fun. Maybe get a sway first? its a big handling upgrade that can be used no matter what you decide. admittedly I went 1 1/4.

$0.02
Click to expand...

This was great. This would be a good starting point for me. I will be checking out a 8 3/4 BBP on craigslist in my area on Wednesday. I think he wants $650.00 with 2.76 gears. So starting point would be the suspension. This helps!!
 
Darter6 said:
Can't be said better. Sounds like a suspension rebuild along with a brake up grade are things that should be first on the list.
When I found my 63,after a good tune up of the bone stock 170 Slant six,next was brakes and suspension rebuild.I went with the 73 up A body large bolt pattern front discs and a 1974 A body big bolt rear axle with the 10''x2 1/2'' brakes.

I may have missed it but is this a budget build ? It would help us all if we knew if it is or not.
When talking about QA1 and other items that is not what I would call budget, we can lead you into the right direction and better help you.
By the way I'm a big fan of the Slant Six but that is your call.
Please tell us more,long term or short term plans. This sounds like fun.
Click to expand...

Budget is still to be determined. I'm trying to figure out where to spend the money and where to scale back. I wanted to do small meaningful upgrades while being able to drive the car. I like the slant six. It's the 225. Ultimately, I would like to swap in a V8 whether it's a 273, 318, 360. As I stated earlier, it doesn't have to be a world beater. I do want it to spin the tires and sound mean and nasty.
 
Last edited:
Call Dr Diff for a brake kit if you are going new. Use the 73+ parts if going used. get a sway bar. rock it out. sounds like you want an 8. You wont need a differential until you do....A 2.76 gear ratio is pretty short....Is this an automatic? You might be happier with a 3:55 and since you are spending money, make sure its a sure grip. An A body 3:55 sure grip diff will run you around $1200. Check out an 8.8 explorer diff. disc brakes and I believe the BBP. Practice welding. It pays dividends. Just my opinion. Its worth about.....

$0.02 ....but .....its free!!! But it really is worth $40....GO GOLD!!
 
clementine said:
Call Dr Diff for a brake kit if you are going new. Use the 73+ parts if going used. get a sway bar. rock it out. sounds like you want an 8. You wont need a differential until you do....A 2.76 gear ratio is pretty short....Is this an automatic? You might be happier with a 3:55 and since you are spending money, make sure its a sure grip. An A body 3:55 sure grip diff will run you around $1200. Check out an 8.8 explorer diff. disc brakes and I believe the BBP. Practice welding. It pays dividends. Just my opinion. Its worth about.....

$0.02 ....but .....its free!!! But it really is worth $40....GO GOLD!!
Click to expand...

The car is an automatic
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top