famous bob
mopar misfit
cool, I`m never buy ,what you can build guy anyway...
1968 Barracuda Notch - Plano, TX
- Thread starter mosleyme
- Start date
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cool, I`m never buy ,what you can build guy anyway...
Last week I was looking for something random six pack related, and just because popped up in my mind I did a search for a part I have been looking for off and on for about the last six years.
K&N E-3840
And someone who is in one of the 67-69 Barracuda Facebook groups had one for sale on Facebook market place. Surely a scam right?
Nope. Arrived today.
Never give up looking, sometimes it just happens. Guy had bought it because he was going to do a six pack hood. Finally decided wasn't going to do it so he put it up for sale.
K&N E-3840
And someone who is in one of the 67-69 Barracuda Facebook groups had one for sale on Facebook market place. Surely a scam right?
Nope. Arrived today.
Never give up looking, sometimes it just happens. Guy had bought it because he was going to do a six pack hood. Finally decided wasn't going to do it so he put it up for sale.
Last edited:
Random part post. This arrived today. Test fit. Maybe this weekend I’ll get a chance to make some brackets. Then I can route and measure the hoses.
“Power steering cooler”. Little black plate cooler on the left. It isn’t much wider than it is tall.
“Power steering cooler”. Little black plate cooler on the left. It isn’t much wider than it is tall.
This was a bit of an adventure.
Bought a Malwood hydraulic clutch pedal assembly.
Went to install it and there was not any space between the pedals. Got a hold of Malwood tech support. Their Mechanical Engineer Ross and I did a facetime call and went over all the details. He sent me a new assembly with a few changes. Worked out great!
Bought a Malwood hydraulic clutch pedal assembly.
Went to install it and there was not any space between the pedals. Got a hold of Malwood tech support. Their Mechanical Engineer Ross and I did a facetime call and went over all the details. He sent me a new assembly with a few changes. Worked out great!
Biomedtechguy
Well-Known Member
I've never heard of such a thing as this "hydraulic clutch pedal assembly" but I guess since I was converting a manual transmission setup and the only "change" was changing the throwout bearing from mechanical to hydraulic, and the parts involved in the conversion, I was only looking at the pathway that is commonplace.
I really like this assembly with the little I know about it, as it appears to be straightforward and takes some of the variables out of the equation.
Kudos on top of the continuous string of accolades in the details of your work.
I did a more complete write up on potential issue with old version of the kit and how Malwood fixed it:
Malwood underdash hydraulic kit for A-Bodies
Biomedtechguy
Well-Known Member
Really nice setup.
Less opportunity to make a mistake or maybe it's more accurate to say that by using this mounting system you are assured of it performing the way it should.
I no longer have my Roadrunner, but
I used the American Powertrain kit, and the issue I still have lingering questions or doubts about is the air gap (or lack thereof) between the tips of the diaphragm spring and the surface of the hydraulic throwout bearing.
If anyone sees any flaws in the following, please correct them:
With a mechanical TO bearing, there has to be an air gap between the diaphragm spring or the bearing spins constantly and no gap also makes it more difficult for the input shaft to disengage from all forces trying to make it spin.
The hydraulic TO bearing from what I was told more than once is designed to very gently ride on the tips of the diaphragm spring, thus always spinning, which is NOT OK with a mechanical TO bearing.
One of the advantages of this I was told is far less to no "lag" between the mechanical input (pushing on the clutch pedal) and the clutch reacting to being pushed on compared to a mechanical TO bearing.
My concern was by not having a gap it would mean wearing out a rather expensive bearing.
I'll stop there and end with a question:
Are hydraulic TO bearings supposed to have an air gap between the bearing face surface and the pressure plate spring tips OR is it supposed to gently ride on the spring tips?
This old can of worms was opened because I see making adjustments to the clutch hydraulic cylinder, actuating rod, and the components attached to it being easier or at least more precise by using the pedal mount bracket setup than the "pick a good spot" and install these couple of components and then hope they all work well where you put them" method.
Less opportunity to make a mistake or maybe it's more accurate to say that by using this mounting system you are assured of it performing the way it should.
I no longer have my Roadrunner, but
I used the American Powertrain kit, and the issue I still have lingering questions or doubts about is the air gap (or lack thereof) between the tips of the diaphragm spring and the surface of the hydraulic throwout bearing.
If anyone sees any flaws in the following, please correct them:
With a mechanical TO bearing, there has to be an air gap between the diaphragm spring or the bearing spins constantly and no gap also makes it more difficult for the input shaft to disengage from all forces trying to make it spin.
The hydraulic TO bearing from what I was told more than once is designed to very gently ride on the tips of the diaphragm spring, thus always spinning, which is NOT OK with a mechanical TO bearing.
One of the advantages of this I was told is far less to no "lag" between the mechanical input (pushing on the clutch pedal) and the clutch reacting to being pushed on compared to a mechanical TO bearing.
My concern was by not having a gap it would mean wearing out a rather expensive bearing.
I'll stop there and end with a question:
Are hydraulic TO bearings supposed to have an air gap between the bearing face surface and the pressure plate spring tips OR is it supposed to gently ride on the spring tips?
This old can of worms was opened because I see making adjustments to the clutch hydraulic cylinder, actuating rod, and the components attached to it being easier or at least more precise by using the pedal mount bracket setup than the "pick a good spot" and install these couple of components and then hope they all work well where you put them" method.
When I installed my hydraulic TOB assembly there was a procedure on how to shim it to get the correct spacing. That would give you a small gap. Now, in operation if it takes up that gap entirely I am not sure. But, if it did it would function like your disc brake calipers. The runout on your rotor causes pad knockback so your brake pads don’t ride on the rotor constantly. I assume the pressure plate finger runout, regardless of how little it is would function the same way.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Un-realated question, any one you know over there have an A Body 8 3/4 rear for sale?
they were not very common to begin with. last one I had I sold in 2006. Some folks get B-body rears and move the spring perches, if you are doing ‘73 up front discs this may work better and allow you to run same wheel front and back. I had Dr Diff make an axle housing for me that was narrower than the A-body axle and had new billet axles and disc brakes.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Thanks. I am down here in Midlo with a busted 7 1/4.
BBP 7 1/4.
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