1968 Barracuda w.73 Charger 440 RB CAM MOD

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BIG-B-Barracuda

BIG-B-Barracuda

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Hey guys, looking to put some money into the shark- 1968 Plymouth barracuda notch with a stock 1973 Dodge Charger 440 RB.

What is the best cam to install on a completely stock stock 440 RB. Looking for recommendations and looking for that ‘stroker rumble’ not looking to put so much into it something light and easy.

looking to have a paint job soon
And looking on refreshening up the motor.
New gaskets seals cetera. So something light and easy. Someone suggested a cam. But don’t have much experience with the motors.
 
I always thought the compression distance was the killer in the later motors. There are a handful of off the shelf cam replacements that can give you a lopey idle or change the powerband to a different rpm range. Things to consider are spring pressure rates on new cam(if you can use stock springs) , condition of existing cam bearings and timing gears. By that year it is nylon covered cam gear that gets shitty and brittle.( I found all the nylon in the pan of my 77 440 ) you also need new lifters.
 
If your experience is limited- don't get into a cam change. If you insist on working on your car and want to increase it's performance, then the best thing to do is to install headers. Even that is not easy, but you will learn.
 
Murray said:
If your experience is limited- don't get into a cam change. If you insist on working on your car and want to increase it's performance, then the best thing to do is to install headers. Even that is not easy, but you will learn.
Click to expand...

i have pretty extensive knowledge in working on cars and rebuilds but never done a cam on these. As everyone here would know A body with a big block space in that bay is trash. I would need to pull the motor out to do headers and even then my steering box and steering column will hit
 


Hope the link works, since that video was made I changed up a couple of things like took the hooker headers out 2in now 1 3/4 exhaust was the choker 2.25 just b4 axle now 3in back to axle, also changed heads went from 906's to a set of 516's and those changes alone by seat of the pants feel helped out
 
The killer & limiting factor for a cam change is the very low comp ratio. In order not to convert it to canine status, you need a short duration cam with short seat timing to 'preserve' as much compression as possible.
I gather from your post that you want the sound to be 'noticeable', but with good manners & good power. Join the club!
You want a single pattern cam [ same int & exh duration ] because a dual pattern cam [ extra exh dur ] adds overlap, & that kills low end power in low CR engines.
I would use the Isky 264 Mega cam.
 
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