1968 Formula S...modify it beyond return?

-
michformulaS

michformulaS

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 14, 2005
Messages
818
Reaction score
44
Location
Midland Michigan
I have a 1968 Formula 340 S from California. Original engine is long gone. I have been running it with a 1970 block 416 last 5 summers. Car is great but I am ready to take it to next level. Do you guys think it matters if I add sub frame connectors and mini tubs to this car? It is kind of a rare vehicle but it doesn't seem like the general public really cares about preserving this model. It will never be original again as the motor is not original. What do you think? I have original exhaust and intake manifolds sitting in the garage and the rest of the car is fairly stock other than motor,wheels and paint.
 
I say go for it - it'll be way more fun to stomp on - as you've pointed out, it'll never go back to original - take the next step
 
It's your car do with it what you like. Make yourself happy.
 
Hack it to pieces. You only live once.
 
The more you modify a Mopar the smaller the group to buy it gets. If you dont plan on selling or know you will lose money build it the way you want it.
 
you're already down that road. I'd do what you want to do with it.
 
michformulaS said:
I have a 1968 Formula 340 S from California. Original engine is long gone. I have been running it with a 1970 block 416 last 5 summers. Car is great but I am ready to take it to next level. Do you guys think it matters if I add sub frame connectors and mini tubs to this car? It is kind of a rare vehicle but it doesn't seem like the general public really cares about preserving this model. It will never be original again as the motor is not original. What do you think? I have original exhaust and intake manifolds sitting in the garage and the rest of the car is fairly stock other than motor,wheels and paint.
Click to expand...

I think you're having a tough time selling it cause of the black 67 stripe, color change, original paint not upper end desirable, and aftermarket engine stuff. That narrows the buying audience. Posting built sheet and fender tag with decodes would help since it's missing "S" badging and other emblems.

I don't think sub frame connectors will hurt. They are not the end of the world to remove. But I wouldn't go with the ones that you continuously weld down the floor boards.

You can fit 275/60/15 on that without mini tubbing and right backspacing. Mini Tubing would extremely narrow the buying audience.

Are you changing the motor or trans when you take it to the next level. What are your plans?

But getting a real clean southwest 68 Barracuda 318 in the same condition as yours would probably be like $10K by the time it's delivered to your door. Maybe more. IMHO, about $5-6K less than what it would sell for. You probably have than that much in parts you'd buy for a donor that are already on your car.

And if you are happy with paint on your car, you couldn't get a non S car as solid and put paint on it for what your car would sell for.
 
autoxcuda said:
I think you're having a tough time selling it cause of the black 67 stripe, color change, original paint not upper end desirable, and aftermarket engine stuff. That narrows the buying audience. Posting built sheet and fender tag with decodes would help since it's missing "S" badging and other emblems.

I don't think sub frame connectors will hurt. They are not the end of the world to remove. But I wouldn't go with the ones that you continuously weld down the floor boards.

You can fit 275/60/15 on that without mini tubbing and right backspacing. Mini Tubing would extremely narrow the buying audience.

Are you changing the motor or trans when you take it to the next level. What are your plans?

But getting a real clean southwest 68 Barracuda 318 in the same condition as yours would probably be like $10K by the time it's delivered to your door. Maybe more. IMHO, about $5-6K less than what it would sell for. You probably have than that much in parts you'd buy for a donor that are already on your car.

And if you are happy with paint on your car, you couldn't get a non S car as solid and put paint on it for what your car would sell for.
Click to expand...

I disagree. only a purist would whine about the subframes tied together-fully welded, (the right way), and mini tubbing. they only make it better ! being really drivable would be more important to me .
 
after 30 yrs in this hobby I have found that whenever you go to sell an old mopar, 99% of the potential buyers that come to look will try to nitpic, whin, *****, moan about anything and everything. only the REAL guys will look it over, and IF there is a flaw, will point it out with respect and dignity! I can take someone pointing out a flaw. not the BS!

I have learned to tell them to look it over, ask any questions I will gladly answer, IF they want the car and do not LIKE whatever I did with it, THEY can change it when they get it home! or thanks for looking!

sure you can do things with the car to reduce the numbers of buyers, in my opinion, funky paint jobs, ( costs $$ to change)non original seats, ( some parts of the country parts are hard to find), etc. IMO frame connectors should have come with the car from the FACTORY! if just weld to frame rails easy to cut off and grind welds off. most people now days would welcome enlarged inner wheel housing, UNLESS he is a purist, number crunching, kind of guy.

lets face it, the old car market is more of a buyers market and has been since 2008 or so. our economy is no great. if a car is well a dvertised and doesn't sell in a reasonable length of time, then it is probably overpriced for the market.

A bodies are the bottom of the barrel Mopar wise. the 68-9 cuda is a good model, for an A body, 340 car to boot. but it is worth what someone will pay, just that.
 
michformulaS said:
I have a 1968 Formula 340 S from California. Original engine is long gone. I have been running it with a 1970 block 416 last 5 summers. Car is great but I am ready to take it to next level. Do you guys think it matters if I add sub frame connectors and mini tubs to this car? It is kind of a rare vehicle but it doesn't seem like the general public really cares about preserving this model. It will never be original again as the motor is not original. What do you think? I have original exhaust and intake manifolds sitting in the garage and the rest of the car is fairly stock other than motor,wheels and paint.
Click to expand...

Since it is your car, and isn't a number matching and never will be, Formula S or not a 68 Barracuda is a 68 Barracuda, not a high dollar E body that is highly sought after.

Weld in frame connectors, yep go for it, mini tub, well if you need more tire just don't cut into the interior so it is an outside visual only.

IMO both are moot point on these cars. As far as resale value, don't expect it to increased he value and remember it will reduce the potential buyer when time to sell

If I remember correctly you had it for sale. If you like the car but want to up the game you have the car to do it with. If you really don't like the car and are doing this to find out if you like it better with big meats on the back, you might be wasting your time and money.

I like the look of the car less the stripe but that is just me.

Good luck whichever way you go!

Remember we like pictures if you are going to build it
 
It's your car. Do what you want. Cut it.
This car was for sale correct. I think what hurt this car from selling is the stripe.
 
Good lord, bust its cherry and make it into something
fun and worth having.
Sooner is better!:burnout:
 
i'm one of those guys that like stock. but frame connectors and minitubs aren't that hard to take out. plus with that much power frame connectors are a must.
 
Alright, thanks for pulling me out of the early 2000's Barrett Jackson mindset that every car is rare worth $$$$. It is not a crime to modify something that may be slightly more than normal but not original or rare,
 
Don't stop at just sub-frame connectors. Add the entire chassis stiffening kit from US Cartool and make your own Monte Carlo bar for under the hood. You will love the difference in the overall feel of the car on the road.

Do yourself a favor and stick EFI on it and add an overdrive with lock-up converter. No need for mini tubs as stated in earlier posts. Make the thing handle, stop, get decent mileage and have 600hp. Supercharge or turbo charge the thing.

Mine is a handfull with just under 500 hp, but very mild mannered, decent mileage(high teens around town low 20's on the highway), A/C and a great daily driver.
 
Just 4 link it and put a set of 33`s on the back with VW tires on the front. That is a true 80`s build.
 
michformulaS said:
Alright, thanks for pulling me out of the early 2000's Barrett Jackson mindset that every car is rare worth $$$$. It is not a crime to modify something that may be slightly more than normal but not original or rare,
Click to expand...



BINGO!!!

So many people think of the RARE desirable cars the are sold at auction and mods really hurt the value.

But an average RARE car is well JUST AVERAGE

View attachment image.jpg

Very rare expensive car, less than 12,000 built in the 3 model years produced but book value for the past 20 years $6,000. 15,300 miles on it with original paint, interior and even tires

Supply and demand

The Formula S never really made much difference in the desirability of a Barracuda. I have owned 1, a factory 273 4 speed console coupe, but really not worth much more than any other 67 Barracuda, color and options are what count

After the auctions each year you see common cars with stupid prices on them.

It is your car, do what you want, a QUALITY modified car could be worth more than a stock car depending on model and type of build

At this point my Dart is worth more modified and probably my Imperial would be too. The Dart is never going back to a 6 auto car and the Imperial will never be modified as long as I own it.
 
WildCat said:
But an average RARE car is well JUST AVERAGE


It is your car, do what you want, a QUALITY modified car could be worth more than a stock car depending on model and type of build

At this point my Dart is worth more modified and probably my Imperial would be too. The Dart is never going back to a 6 auto car and the Imperial will never be modified as long as I own it.
Click to expand...

WildCat hit the nail directly on the head! I agree with what he said about his cars too.
BTW, that Imperial is sweet! I would love to have a nice one of those...
Dalas
 
even though my duster was a /6 car i wouldnt of done anything different if it was a 340 car. its my car if YOU dont like it then YOU shouldve bought it before me lmao
 
I say, for instance, there are many slant Dusters that have been changed over to s b., some b b. makes sense no doubt to many. whether a pitiful looking driver or fully restored nice car, worth more $$ with these changes. there are plenty of our A bodies with the original slant to meet all needs for such.

what kills sales of these cars to me, is when someone makes changes that are off the board for potential buyers. funky paint, funky interiors, the old deal of adding a "moon roof". etc.

sure the car is the owners car, its his right to do what he likes to it, BUT if or when the guy goes to sell and it is hard to find a buyer, then there are reasons.

me, if a project has air, first thing I do is PULL it off. don't want it. period. if I decide to sell it, many will be turned off because I took it off. BUT, it is still in the shed. can be easily put back. but makes a difference to lots of people.
 
I run a six pack small block in a 69 fury ragtop. Bought the Shelby Dakota new and it is still stock.... they are mine and I did what I wanted to do with them..... your car, your choice.
 
The problem I see is you were trying to sell so you are not happy with it. Either plan on keeping it a long time and mod it or drive it until it sells and get one you are happy with.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top