1968 under hood wireing

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Old school body

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coming off my voltage reg a wire runs up to a solenoid just behind the battery on the apron. Does any one know what it is called put a new alternator new voltage reg still discharging
 
Old school body said:
coming off my voltage reg a wire runs up to a solenoid just behind the battery on the apron. Does any one know what it is called put a new alternator new voltage reg still discharging
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Run some simple checks. I tend to "think" in terms of

1...Problems in the output circuit, that is, the charging output coming off the big stud, through the bulkhead, ammeter, and back to the battery

2...Problems in the field wiring circuit

3...Direct component problems, a bad alternator or regulator

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A new alternator does not mean a WORKING alternator

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A.....First, VERY first is to determine what you have for a system. that is do you have

A1....A stock 69/ earlier mopar alternator and regulator

A2....Been upgraded to a 70 / later alternator and newer "flat" electronic VR

A3....Some other system like a Delco / Denso / Other?

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You can run some very simple tests, and that is much preferred to buying expensive parts ---which you cannot return----and throwing them at the problem


1.......FIRST Examine the new alternator. Is there a second field connection? It HAS BECOME POPULAR with the parts stores to "sub" a later style alternator for the old type unit (69/ earlier) and to use this newer unit YOU MUST GROUND one of the field connections. YOU MUST check this out because if one IS grounded and you hook your field wire to that, you can burn up some wiring or a regulator!!!!

2......Disconnect the field wire at the alternator, and get a "clip" (alligator) lead. Hook the clip lead to the alterntor field connection, and run the wire over to the battery stud on the starter relay. If you do this in subdued lighting, you should see a small spark when you hook / unhook the wire. Run the engine, slowly bring up RPM, and look for a charge

2A....If no charge, clip your voltmeter directly to the alternator output stud and to ground. Bring up RPM. If the voltage stays low, below 13V the alternator is not charging

If the voltage comes WAY high, say, 18V but battery voltage AT the battery stays low, below 13, , there is an open / poor connection in your output wire

If the voltage comes up, say 14--16V, recheck at the battery. If the voltage at the battery also comes up, it is charging, and is not showing on the alternator

2B....If in the above test the voltage at the alternator stays low, below 13V, either the new replacement is bad, or els you are NOT drawing field current. Again, check that there is a second field terminal needs to be grounded. If you have a high amperage scale on your multimeter, you can check and see if field current is being drawn through your jumper lead, about 3--6A

If it is drawing field current and won't charge, the new unit is defective

2C....IF in the above test, the ammeter DOES show a charge, and or battery voltage starts to climb with RPM, this means "so far so good."

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3...If in test 2 you get a charge condition, hook the field wiring back up "normal." Now, disconnect the VR and jumper the two wires together. Again run the engine, bring up RPM and look for a charge, or battery voltage increase.

3A...If no charge, you have a problem somewhere in the field wiring

3B...If the system DOES show a charge, CHECK THAT the VR is GROUNDED. It MUST be grounded. If it is replace the VR.
 
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