Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Hi Hawk, better than nothing , thank you very much. Will call tomorrow,
Wolfgang
Wolfgang
1969 Barracuda Fastback
- Thread starter Machmeter1
- Start date
-
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Distributor:
Thanks to fellow @halifaxhops, I got a rebuilt, tested and date correct
Distributor with Pertronix upgrade.
That's a nice Christmas present.
Thanks to fellow @halifaxhops, I got a rebuilt, tested and date correct
Distributor with Pertronix upgrade.
That's a nice Christmas present.
Last edited:
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
LA 318 engine:
Thanks to a member of this forum I found a year, actually date correct engine for my Barracuda. The car was built 7th January 1969 and the engine I got, was built on 24th Sep. 1968. Unfortunately, the shipping cost from California was higher than the cost of the engine. Since I have seen just pictures and a video, buying the engine was a bit of a gamble.
My biggest concern was the condition of the block. Luckily the bores cleared up at .030 over and no cracks so far.
What is a bit confusing, according to the book "How to rebuild your small block Mopar" by Taylor and Hofer, all 318 came with low compression flat top pistons - no valve reliefs.
By now I have seen 4 318 engines with valve reliefs in their pistons. One of those engines for sure has never been apart. So the 4 valve relief pistons were factory installed. Also on my engine, there were pistons with 4 valve reliefs and it was a std. bore block.
The sad thing, one of the heads is junk - it had cracks all over.
So, if anyone of you has one good cylinder head (68 - 71 casting #2843675), please feel free to contact me. Not asking for a Christmas present, I am paying!
The engine will be rebuilt by Kammer&Kammer in Dayton Ohio. Here are some pictures of the freshly hot tanked block:
Thanks to a member of this forum I found a year, actually date correct engine for my Barracuda. The car was built 7th January 1969 and the engine I got, was built on 24th Sep. 1968. Unfortunately, the shipping cost from California was higher than the cost of the engine. Since I have seen just pictures and a video, buying the engine was a bit of a gamble.
My biggest concern was the condition of the block. Luckily the bores cleared up at .030 over and no cracks so far.
What is a bit confusing, according to the book "How to rebuild your small block Mopar" by Taylor and Hofer, all 318 came with low compression flat top pistons - no valve reliefs.
By now I have seen 4 318 engines with valve reliefs in their pistons. One of those engines for sure has never been apart. So the 4 valve relief pistons were factory installed. Also on my engine, there were pistons with 4 valve reliefs and it was a std. bore block.
The sad thing, one of the heads is junk - it had cracks all over.
So, if anyone of you has one good cylinder head (68 - 71 casting #2843675), please feel free to contact me. Not asking for a Christmas present, I am paying!
The engine will be rebuilt by Kammer&Kammer in Dayton Ohio. Here are some pictures of the freshly hot tanked block:
Last edited:
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Exhaust manifolds:
Thanks to a fellow on this forum I got a nice set of original Chrysler exhaust manifolds. I deburred all sharp edges and bolt holes. M3 aluminum tape on the machined surfaces is a good remedy to protect them during bead blasting.
I also found a NOS choke thermostat.
Thanks to a fellow on this forum I got a nice set of original Chrysler exhaust manifolds. I deburred all sharp edges and bolt holes. M3 aluminum tape on the machined surfaces is a good remedy to protect them during bead blasting.
I also found a NOS choke thermostat.
Last edited:
HawkRod
Well-Known Member
Good progress! Every little bit helps!
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Kelsey Hayes rims:
Thanks to a fellow here on FABO, I got yesterday a set of 5 nice-looking 14x5.5 Kelsey Hayes rims. Optional tire sizes for 1969 Barracudas were C78x14, 6.95x14, D70x14, E70x14. Did some research today and found out, that the Falken 205/70/R14 is not available anymore. That was my favourite and an excellent tire of good quality. One of my friends had good experiences with the Vitour Galaxy R1 - but a China product.
There is still time to do more research on tires, next step is getting the rims restored.
Thanks to a fellow here on FABO, I got yesterday a set of 5 nice-looking 14x5.5 Kelsey Hayes rims. Optional tire sizes for 1969 Barracudas were C78x14, 6.95x14, D70x14, E70x14. Did some research today and found out, that the Falken 205/70/R14 is not available anymore. That was my favourite and an excellent tire of good quality. One of my friends had good experiences with the Vitour Galaxy R1 - but a China product.
There is still time to do more research on tires, next step is getting the rims restored.
Last edited:
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Got a nice NOS heat shield:
Last edited:
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Zinc plating:
Some little steps forward on my project. Got a few parts back from zinc plating. Found a small but fine shop here close to Dayton Ohio.
My personal opinion and experience with Nick's Plating home page - chrome, nickel, zinc custom plating: Affordable price, excellent customer service and willing to deal with individuals. Usually, bigger companies don't want, or refuse orders of a few parts.
Some little steps forward on my project. Got a few parts back from zinc plating. Found a small but fine shop here close to Dayton Ohio.
My personal opinion and experience with Nick's Plating home page - chrome, nickel, zinc custom plating: Affordable price, excellent customer service and willing to deal with individuals. Usually, bigger companies don't want, or refuse orders of a few parts.
Last edited:
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Engine, first progress:
I also visited the engine builder today. My connecting rods are reconditioned, the crankshaft journals got refurbished (.010) and the crankshaft is ready for balancing. Still waiting for the cylinder head I found here on FABO. After doing some math, I decided to go with a 2:76 gear ratio. So if anyone has a differential in excellent condition, with that gear ratio - you are welcome to contact me. At the moment, there is a 489 case with 3:55 gears and a "Detroit Locker" in my car. I would offer it for partial trade.
I also visited the engine builder today. My connecting rods are reconditioned, the crankshaft journals got refurbished (.010) and the crankshaft is ready for balancing. Still waiting for the cylinder head I found here on FABO. After doing some math, I decided to go with a 2:76 gear ratio. So if anyone has a differential in excellent condition, with that gear ratio - you are welcome to contact me. At the moment, there is a 489 case with 3:55 gears and a "Detroit Locker" in my car. I would offer it for partial trade.
Last edited:
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Kickdown linkage:
The best part of a restoration, putting CLEAN parts together. It is like Lego for adults...love it.
The best part of a restoration, putting CLEAN parts together. It is like Lego for adults...love it.
Last edited:
HawkRod
Well-Known Member
Hi Wolfgang. I have a 2.76 open differential in a 489 case. It needs a good cleaning, but all gears look to be in nice shape. Contact me if you are interested.
Hawk
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Hi Hawk, thanks sure I will.
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Exhaust manifold treatment:
After having not so good experiences with high-temperature exhaust sprays on two previous projects, I wanted to try something new. This article https//streettechmag.com/2015/05/04/how-to-restore-an-exhaust-manifold/ caught my attention. I bought one 12 oz Slip Plate can, which was enough to do both exhaust manifolds. Due to the strong smell, I recommend using this product just outside. Unfortunately, the little spring on the manifold valve is missing, need to find a replacement for it.
Here are some pictures of the bead blasted manifolds before and after the Slip Plate treatment:
After having not so good experiences with high-temperature exhaust sprays on two previous projects, I wanted to try something new. This article https//streettechmag.com/2015/05/04/how-to-restore-an-exhaust-manifold/ caught my attention. I bought one 12 oz Slip Plate can, which was enough to do both exhaust manifolds. Due to the strong smell, I recommend using this product just outside. Unfortunately, the little spring on the manifold valve is missing, need to find a replacement for it.
Here are some pictures of the bead blasted manifolds before and after the Slip Plate treatment:
Last edited:
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Midland and Ross brake booster:
Today my brake booster came back from Booster Dewey, fantastic job, affordable and great customer service - exactly how it should be.
Today my brake booster came back from Booster Dewey, fantastic job, affordable and great customer service - exactly how it should be.
Last edited:
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Gearshift linkage:
After receiving two new shaft bushings from Mancini Racing, I could finally assemble the gearshift linkage. Some Vaseline helped to push them into the tight bearing seats.
After receiving two new shaft bushings from Mancini Racing, I could finally assemble the gearshift linkage. Some Vaseline helped to push them into the tight bearing seats.
Last edited:
340mouse
Well-Known Member
Wolgfgang,
I bought my 68 383 S from Dave in I believe Smithsville close to where you bought your 69
Cuda, I do believe the Dave I bought my Cuda from was a friend of Dave that you bought your 69 Cuda from, I do believe they both took them to Toronto Motorsports Park(Cayuga) for some fun, motors are very similar, mine 400, 383 crank KB pistons, 557 solid MP cam, edelbrock aluminum heads and intake, like you changing the motor, I want to detune mine so I enjoy cruising it, or rebuild the #'s engine.
Cheers Dave
I bought my 68 383 S from Dave in I believe Smithsville close to where you bought your 69
Cuda, I do believe the Dave I bought my Cuda from was a friend of Dave that you bought your 69 Cuda from, I do believe they both took them to Toronto Motorsports Park(Cayuga) for some fun, motors are very similar, mine 400, 383 crank KB pistons, 557 solid MP cam, edelbrock aluminum heads and intake, like you changing the motor, I want to detune mine so I enjoy cruising it, or rebuild the #'s engine.
Cheers Dave
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Hi Dave, I don't know if the two other Daves knew each other. Your engine looks nice. If you wanna detune it, try to keep as many parts from your existing engine and drivetrain. I would not recommend giving away a good treated engine and drivetrain, that you know well. Getting other parts is always a bit of a gamble, especially if there is no proven history on them. Personally, I am a fan of original. The engineers who constructed our cars were quite capable technicians and millions of working cars proofed their work. I like to work with shop manuals and don't think I am smarter than those old engineers and need to reinvent their well-working systems. When I rebuild my Mustang I tried to keep it as much as possible original and guess what, it's working. Performance cars of course are a totally different league, but I do not have the financial sources to play in it. I just wanna enjoy and preserve a classic car.
Last edited:
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Carburator rebuild:
Thanks to a member of this forum, I got a correct Carter BBD carburetor (1969 - 4608S). This simple carburetor should actually be an easy project, but it was not. During the disassembling, I noticed that the two brass needles in the venturi cluster cover were loose and there are two possible locations for them. Plymouth Service Manual was not really helpful and on the internet were a lot of inaccurate drawings, showing those brass needles on the inner or outer location. Next, in the carburetor base were two different idle mixture screws. Correct, early style BBD carburetor idle mixture screws are obviously not available through suppliers. After a hint from a FABO member, I installed the brass needles in the outer position. Here some pictures:
Thanks to a member of this forum, I got a correct Carter BBD carburetor (1969 - 4608S). This simple carburetor should actually be an easy project, but it was not. During the disassembling, I noticed that the two brass needles in the venturi cluster cover were loose and there are two possible locations for them. Plymouth Service Manual was not really helpful and on the internet were a lot of inaccurate drawings, showing those brass needles on the inner or outer location. Next, in the carburetor base were two different idle mixture screws. Correct, early style BBD carburetor idle mixture screws are obviously not available through suppliers. After a hint from a FABO member, I installed the brass needles in the outer position. Here some pictures:
Last edited:
1969cuda
Well-Known Member
Nice work!
HawkRod
Well-Known Member
Great attention to detail - your car will be beautiful when done!
Last edited:
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2018
- Messages
- 14,649
- Reaction score
- 34,112
Had me at Sublime
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Steering column rebuild:
A while ago I purchased from a well-known FABO member a correct steering column for my Barracuda. The steering column was generally in good condition, all the plastic injections on the shaft and gearshift tube were intact. Compared to the tilt steering column with ignition lock I rebuild a couple of years ago, this was quite an easy task.
After Disassembling, the shaft, tube, and jacket got bead blasted and painted afterward. The floor plate and ring retainer got bead blasted and powder coated. I like to lay out all the parts, before assembling them and work in accordance with the service manual.
Still, I ran into a problem that I would like to share, so others don't make the same mistake.
I bought a Doorman steering shaft rebuild kit 425-253, but that kit does not work for the 69 Abody steering column. The pieces are of poor quality and obviously made in China. The bores in the two shoes are too small, so the shoes wouldn't fit on the shaft pin. The spring-clip would also not fit in the tailored section of the shoes. The only piece I used out of this kit was the rubber seal. I also recommend reusing the original seal plate - provided it was removed with care and the lips not excessively bent.
Lesson learned - there must be a reason why other kits are sold for around $60. Anyway, the shoes on my coupler were still good and I could not notice any slag in the coupler.
So here just new grease and rubber seal.
The service manual lists a few special tools, but I got here a bit creative. The old bushing from my Saginaw pump, in combination with the steering wheel nut and a thick washer, works great to pull the shaft through the upper bearing.
Here some pictures:
A while ago I purchased from a well-known FABO member a correct steering column for my Barracuda. The steering column was generally in good condition, all the plastic injections on the shaft and gearshift tube were intact. Compared to the tilt steering column with ignition lock I rebuild a couple of years ago, this was quite an easy task.
After Disassembling, the shaft, tube, and jacket got bead blasted and painted afterward. The floor plate and ring retainer got bead blasted and powder coated. I like to lay out all the parts, before assembling them and work in accordance with the service manual.
Still, I ran into a problem that I would like to share, so others don't make the same mistake.
I bought a Doorman steering shaft rebuild kit 425-253, but that kit does not work for the 69 Abody steering column. The pieces are of poor quality and obviously made in China. The bores in the two shoes are too small, so the shoes wouldn't fit on the shaft pin. The spring-clip would also not fit in the tailored section of the shoes. The only piece I used out of this kit was the rubber seal. I also recommend reusing the original seal plate - provided it was removed with care and the lips not excessively bent.
Lesson learned - there must be a reason why other kits are sold for around $60. Anyway, the shoes on my coupler were still good and I could not notice any slag in the coupler.
So here just new grease and rubber seal.
The service manual lists a few special tools, but I got here a bit creative. The old bushing from my Saginaw pump, in combination with the steering wheel nut and a thick washer, works great to pull the shaft through the upper bearing.
Here some pictures:
Last edited:
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Ready to go in the car:
Last edited:
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Sandblasting and powder coating:
Yesterday I picked up some parts from a small, but fine company here in Dayton - Champion Custom Coatings LLC. They did a great job at a fair price. All my parts got sandblasted and powder coated:
Yesterday I picked up some parts from a small, but fine company here in Dayton - Champion Custom Coatings LLC. They did a great job at a fair price. All my parts got sandblasted and powder coated:
Last edited:
Looking good, you do nice work
-
