1969 Dart Street/Strip (Re)Build

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Taxmanth said:
Nice work man. That's the only thing I hate about the dart. There is no effing room! I'm still waiting for QA1 to make a big block a body k member. They say "the demand is just not there " blah blah.

R those the same small mopar bolt pattern?

I've got the original Kelsey Haynes brakes and the first pedal push goes almost to the floor and the rest are just fine. Not too sure what's going on there but I may switch to wilwoods in the future.
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Mine were the '73 and up BBP disks before and they're still 4.5" bolt pattern with the Wilwoods. I still need to sell the control arms and disk setup that I had before. But the way it was (stock disk front, rear drum), just wasn't near enough braking for this car and you'll find with a car with power like yours, stock brakes aren't all that fun. The HDK kit combined with the Wilwoods up front with Dr. Diff rear disk are going to give me a huge gain of confidence (at least I'm hoping!) in the handling and driveability of the car.
 
Ended up finding a spot that will work for the dipstick. Driver's side on the aft end of the engine. Clears everything, the tube will line up with one if the main caps, I think it should be good to go on the relocation. I also find out after the fact that there was originally a hole for a dipstick tube on the M301 pan right where I'm locating it on the new pan. So I think this is where it should be.











Time to cut and relocate



Not pretty but she'll get a TIG welded patch. I must say, Kevko must look more towards the function of their welds, not the looks. They are none too pretty! Lol

 
New hole drilled on driver's side for the dipstick



Looks like the same location the M301 pan had at one point



Fitting sort of in place ready for welding





Then changed out the pickup on the pump





 
I did figure out why the calipers were leaking. Whoever put them together forgot a seal on each side and had the center plates installed/flipped wrong.

Notice the plates aren't flush with the caliper body

[ame="http://s115.photobucket.com/user/clinteg/media/1969%20Dart/F2E9BF33-C69A-4484-96FD-21AA196A34A2.png.html"]F2E9BF33-C69A-4484-96FD-21AA196A34A2.png Photo by clinteg | Photobucket[/ame]







At the top, there are 2 seals required and only 1 seal required at the opposite end.

Seal in body


With spacer installed



Notice how flush the plates are to the body now







Hopefully that problem is now fixed.
 
Found out I gave the trans guy a bad core. He hit me up a couple days ago and said that it had about 2 gallons of water in it! Woops! I know which one I should have given him now so now I'm down that time until I get him a good core Sunday. Still no word from Wilwood on what the status is on the brakes. Denny sent me a set of longer spacers to take care of the UBJ boot issue and the package showed up ripped open with no spacers inside! Thanks USPS. Took the oil pan over to a buddies' last night and we got the dipstick fitting moved and the hole patched up. So at least a little progress there.
 
None whatsoever bud. I'm really getting screwed over by Wilwood right now. They've had the brakes plenty long enough to figure out what's going on with them and now they aren't returning phone calls. I can't do anything with the car until I get those brakes back. I'm sorely disappointed with their service right now, both in communication and return time. We're remodeling part of our house and I ended up taking last week off work to get it all done. I needed my table saw from the loft and guess where the loft is? Right above where my car is parked which I cannot move. I had to set my step ladder next to the car just inches away, slide the table saw off the end of the loft, right over the roof of the car one handed while trying not to fall off the ladder and dropping the whole saw on the roof of the car. So damned irritating not being able to even roll the car out of the way for small things like that which is a high risk of damaging the car. Right now the car is sitting there, pan isn't installed, no headers, no carb, no steering, no brakes, etc. Had it not been for the remodel, I'd have at least had time to get the rear disks swapped. Just need to pull the proportioning valve and reconnect or make a couple new brake lines. Should be straight forward.

Almost done with the laundry list of 200-4R parts though. Last things I need are a flexible dipstick, new pan, and slip yoke. I just ordered a JW Performance lightweight flex plate and crank adapter yesterday as well as an FTI single disk billet lockup converter. It's their SRL series (9.5") and I had them stall it around 4500 rpm. He really wanted to put in a 3600 rpm stall and I wasn't too keen on that. I think my 60' would suffer jumping down to 3600 from a 5500 stall, plus I can lock it up whenever I want at 50-60% throttle and keep RPM's down if needed for city cruising. Compared to what I drive now, it will be fine. It's a sort of one-off converter that needs about a 6.5" spacing (stock is 6.00" I think for a normal 200-4R). They're making it 6.25" and sending spacers to get the height correct. I was going to have Dynamic build this converter but Sean said he'd get back to me on a price and never did. I called him several weeks later and he was "busy with another customer" and he said he'd call me back about it. He never called me back so Dynamic has now lost my business. See ya.

I don't see me even being able to make the Power Tour now since the brakes have held me up so long. With just over a month to go, a full trans swap seems glim to pull off.
 
WOW, WOW, WOW sorry to hear all of that...I just don't get people and companies why they just can't take care of the customer. Glad to here nothing happened to the car while trying to get the saw out...I totally get the room thing and not having enough or a car you can't move I should say. Try and keep a good outlook and things will start coming around your way. Sounds like this will be killer to drive when you get it all sorted out and back on the ground and running can't wait...Keep us or me updated.

Brad
 
FINALLY Wilwood got back with me. They're replacing the disks and shipping out tomorrow. This does have me concerned that they didn't replace the entire hub assy since I measured some runout on the hub as well as the disks. But I'm sure they checked it and it's all good now (fingers crossed).
 
Today the brakes arrived. So keep in mind, when I sent these back, something was very very warped. I was getting excessive runout on both the hub and disk. Wilwood is supposed to find the cause of the problem and fix it right??? WRONG! All those a$$holes did was keep my parts for 4 weeks and sent everything back exactly how it was, except they sent new disks in another box to replace the old ones. Now someone explain this to me. If there is warpage in both the hub and the disks, how do you know what is bad? They didn't fix a damn thing. They don't know what's going on any more than I do. So what's their answer? Oh just give him some new disks and it might work. WTF Wilwood!? For such a reputable company, you sure do have a shitty way of "fixing" things. If I put these back together and it doesn't fix the problem, guess what? I'm back in the same boat that I was in over a month ago and I'm going to have to go through this whole process all over again. To me, they should have replaced the disks, tested the brakes to make sure that fixed the problem, and then mailed the brakes back to me ready to go. But noooooo. This is their way of fixing their warped ****. Pass it back to the customer and say GOOD LUCK BUDDY! I'm having a shop put these together (they were the 6th distributor for Wilwood back in the mid 80's so they have some deep history). Shop said if this doesn't fix it, then have Wilwood call them and they'll sort this out directly. I hate paying a shop to do this simple thing but I won't have a leg to stand on if they're still warped. I guarantee that they'd say I installed the disks wrong if this goes south again. If the shop does it, I'll have a leg to stand on to show it was professionally done by a shop that has been their distributor and long time customer for 30+ years. This is all such bullshit to me but maybe I'm just being the usual asshole. Can ya tell I'm a little less than satisfied with Wilwood????
 
Man that sucks...I'd almost rather you were wrong and they turn out ok, but going off what you said earlier, I think your shop is gonna be contacting wilwood.
 
txstang84 said:
Man that sucks...I'd almost rather you were wrong and they turn out ok, but going off what you said earlier, I think your shop is gonna be contacting wilwood.
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You and I both. Hope I'm making a big deal out of nothing and all will be good.
 
Good luck man. I've been following your build since the beginning. This is the type of bullshit that really drives me crazy.
 
mopowers said:
Good luck man. I've been following your build since the beginning. This is the type of bullshit that really drives me crazy.
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Same here. It's the kind of crap that make me wonder why I'm still in this hobby sometimes lol. Does the frustration out-weigh the exhilaration? Well it's seemed to just barely tilt to the exhilaration side so far haha
 
Installed the driver's side brake. As I suspected, Wilwood F'd me over real good. .009 runout now. Brakes are still unusable. I have now been nicknamed in a local club as "BOHICA" because I can't seem to quit getting screwed over and over.

 
clinteg said:
Installed the driver's side brake. As I suspected, Wilwood F'd me over real good. .009 runout now. Brakes are still unusable. I have now been nicknamed in a local club as "BOHICA" because I can't seem to quit getting screwed over and over.

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thats what happens when parts are made in china
 
What happens when you use the other hub on the same spindle.

If the rotor in the video a is a brand new rotor...then perhaps it is not the rotor, if the other hub has the same runout on the that same spindle....then maybe it is the spindle that is the issue.??

You will get it right.....just think of all the fun you are having. (sarc)
 
Wilwood told me zero. They should be true.
 
So maybe some good news today. I talked to the sales manager and contrary to what I was told before, he says .009 is within spec. .010 runout is what their cutoff is so it's barely there. He claimed mine had .012 and .015 runout so they were definitely in excess and the reason that they didn't disassemble the brakes and check them before mailing back was because the disk warping is the most common issue and that usually fixes the problem. I told him I searched and searched to find what was acceptable for runout and couldn't find anything other than what one of their tech guy told me before mailing them in. He admittedly said that he didn't believe they have that information public on their website. But anything below .010 shouldn't be able to be felt on the pedal. If I do feel some pedal shake, then we'll have to take the next step. So now that I have the right information, it's time to move forward and get the other side on, checked, and get this car on the road and check out this new suspension. Hopefully no pedal shake!
 
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