1969 Dodge Dart GT “driver” build

-
Made it to the track, first time ever with a stick car. Wheel hop was terrible, best time I could muster was 8.70’s 2.13 60ft.
Installed the trim when I got home. I’ve got to pick out the side tape (thinking I’m going to go with a non traditional pattern)
Going to have to bust out the sharpe on the spot I missed painting the roof :lol:
IMG_8599.jpeg
IMG_8603.jpeg
IMG_8604.jpeg
IMG_8607.jpeg
IMG_8606.jpeg
IMG_8609.jpeg
IMG_8610.jpeg
IMG_8611.jpeg
IMG_8612.jpeg


IMG_8598.jpeg
 
I’ve been trying to figure out why the car pulls to the right, fine tuned the alignment last night after work. Still had a pull…..
Last thing I had fixed was the O-rings under the gear box pressure valve (must have been slightly too far back). After a few taps back and forth on the valve the car finally drives straight!
IMG_9132.jpeg


IMG_9131.jpeg
 
You have 0.2 degrees more caster on the right than the left. If you can, reverse that so that you have a tick more caster on the left. The reason is the roads have a crown to them to help water run-off. In the Americas, we drive on the right, which means if caster is the same right/left, there will be a slight pull to the right. That ever-so-slight additional caster on the left compensates for normal road slant.
 
mpgmike said:
You have 0.2 degrees more caster on the right than the left. If you can, reverse that so that you have a tick more caster on the left. The reason is the roads have a crown to them to help water run-off. In the Americas, we drive on the right, which means if caster is the same right/left, there will be a slight pull to the right. That ever-so-slight additional caster on the left compensates for normal road slant.
Click to expand...
I think you've got it backwards. The extra .2 degrees of caster on the right is for road crown (RF wheel is further forward than the left)
 
The car was parked outside overnight last weekend and got rained on, after dealing with the puddles inside I decided it was time to fix it. I noticed the front seal was torn at the bottom all the way across, I filled the drain holes with sealer, and the hole that I didn’t know about wasn’t sealed.
New windshield gasket is on order, going to attempt it again with the old crappy windshield.
IMG_9409.jpeg
IMG_9410.jpeg
IMG_9411.jpeg
IMG_9412.jpeg


IMG_9407.jpeg

Duster windshield removal/replacement


https://www.amazon.com/C-R-LAURENCE-777BL-Rubber-Sealant/dp/B001TBCQ92/?tag=fabo03-20
31vWoDbfqtL._AC_.jpg

I'm also going to try a different sealer
 
Last edited:
I just installed mine yesterday and today. My words of wisdom. The sun is your friend. At least two sets of hands. Soapy water in a squirt bottle helps. I didn’t have plastic tools, I should have. I was lucky. A little sealant goes a long way. Good luck it made my hands sore.
 
X2 on the plastic tools. I had some Plastic bicycle "tire irons" that worked great. Also called tire levers or tire spoons.
Probably any number of other things would work well also.
 
Front windshield was leak free, rear on the other hand.................Leaks like a sieve :poke:
The rear glass moved around quite a bit in the gasket (half covering the glass/half in the pinch weld)
 
abdywgn said:
UGH! at least your feet won't get wet...
Click to expand...
The problem is the package tray fills up with water so I can't have speakers, etc......
It sounds like the Steele gaskets might be better but they have mixed reviews also. If only I had known 10 years ago I'd of been extra careful with the factory one and reused it.
 
Made it to test and tune a couple weeks ago (either spins or dead hook/bogs) This was my best pass. The yellow swinger ran low 7's (408 4 speed). I got to see what my car would look like if it was nice :lol: doppelganger!
IMG_9556.jpeg
IMG_9677.jpeg
IMG_9557.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top