1969 Plymouth Barracuda 340 Manifolds

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69 Cuda man

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I have a 1969 Plymouth Barracuda that I am trying to find exhaust manifolds for, the car came with headers that hit everything you could imagine and the car sounds like a $3.00 rattle can that is driving me crazy. I can not seem to find anything out there that will fits, so it has been sitting at a custom exhaust shop for 3 weeks now, neither one of us has had any luck finding manifolds, does anyone know where I might find something? Would very much appreciate the help, the weather is starting to get nice and I feel it may be sitting for quite some time, thanks.
 
post a wanted ad here in the classifieds and i'm sure something will turn up.

there's a set on e-bay right now.

either way be prepared to open your wallet wide.

if you don't care about originality or eeking out the last bit of performance 318 or 360 manifolds would work fine, as would even some magnum units. or invest in a set of top of the line headers that fit well.
 
'68 - '70 340 manifolds are all the same and only available used. In '71 the passengers side was changed to a more restrictive center outlet design but driver's side the same. Reproduction nuts/bolts for 340 manifolds are available. The driver's side heat shield is not being reproduced anymore so its a challenge to find that part.
 
They are not that hard to find if you have about $600-900 in your wallet. They even make them new now. If you don’t want to the spend that much, the 72-74 a body 340 360 manifolds are a lot cheaper. That is what I have on my 69 Cuda.
 
69 Cuda man said:
I have a 1969 Plymouth Barracuda that I am trying to find exhaust manifolds for, the car came with headers that hit everything you could imagine and the car sounds like a $3.00 rattle can that is driving me crazy. I can not seem to find anything out there that will fits, so it has been sitting at a custom exhaust shop for 3 weeks now, neither one of us has had any luck finding manifolds, does anyone know where I might find something? Would very much appreciate the help, the weather is starting to get nice and I feel it may be sitting for quite some time, thanks.
Click to expand...
Here's one site that has reproductions. No heat riser that I can see though.

1968-71 340 Exhaust Manifolds Duster Dart Plymouth Cuda TA AAR Challenger GTS 70 – Mopar Hoods

Here's the option I chose. Worked out great for me.


https://www.ttiexhaust.com/TTi34025.htm#pricing





1716469223584.png
 
Last edited:
It's unfortunate that you're so turned off by headers.
A set of long tube Hedmann Headers fit great and are a great price. And they last a long time.
If you wanna go top notch, the long tube TTI step headers are TOO TRICK.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Don't let anybody talk you into those Pussy *** shorty headers.
Just cuz they copped out, don't mean you should.
 
I did some work on my headers and I am very happy with them now. They were the ones that went around the steering linkage.

IMG_0180.jpeg
 
partsmonsta said:
It's unfortunate that you're so turned off by headers.
A set of long tube Hedmann Headers fit great and are a great price. And they last a long time.
If you wanna go top notch, the long tube TTI step headers are TOO TRICK.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Don't let anybody talk you into those Pussy *** shorty headers.
Just cuz they copped out, don't mean you should.
Click to expand...
Well... I chose shorties for a different reason. Ground clearance with a 4-speed. The driver side pipes with the long tubes just hung too low for me and didn't give me the look I wanted.
No argument that there is a performance trade-off by not using long tubes but I don't think its a lot. My car runs 11's so I'm happy.

Here's a shot under my car. This is as tight to the floor as I could get it as I wanted lower ride height without scraping the exhaust every time I I ran up the driveway or over a wavy section of pavement.

TTi Ceramic coated shorties ,2 1/2 inch pipes, Flow Master 40's , 2 1/2 inch Accurate exhaust tips.



1716471900633.png
 
How much are TTIs now? or Dougs?
compared to a nice set of 340 iron logs?
You're paying a lotta money for the logs and giving up a lotta torque/power, throughout the rev range.
Any header is better than no header.
Jus saying.
-------------------------------------
While the 340 logs are adequate for a street 340, with a factory cam, with it's very modest overlap period; as soon as you step away from that 114 LSA, and go to a proper 107/108, those logs will kill the overlap period ........... which if you have 3.23s and a stock stall, I guess is not the end of the world, cuz first gear will get you to sixty mph, or thereabouts, and a 360 may still be spinning the tires..
But here's the payback;
With headers, and a tight LSA cam, you can run a cam at least one size smaller, maybe two, than with logs and the 340 cam; and that means that the combo has the potential to pick up a sizeable amount of steady-state fuel-economy; in addition to a major increase in off-the-line jump, due to the increased amount of cylinder pressure. If you have a low-compression 318, this is a really big deal, because the cylinder pressure is already so low.
-----------------------------------------------
I was thinking;
If you level your car from side to side, using the frame for reference, and then put a level on the airhorn;
My guess is that the engine is not level, which usually ends up poorly for the headers; and soft mounts will do the rest. Once the engine is back in the factory pocket, headers ain't so bad. I highly recommend restraining the engine to just a degree or two of motion.
On the street, 1.03 bars, HD shocks, and a proper street ride-height, will do wonders for not beating up on the under-the-steering headers. If you stiffen up the front, you will have to stiffen up the rear, else you will be doing a lot of impromptu sliding, to the point of spinning out when cornering (or maybe when changing lanes if you drive like I do). Stay alert; if the back-end steps out, you can bet it wants to pass you, and you may have only milliseconds to fix the situation.
Jus saying.
 
69 Cuda man said:
Thanks for the info, checking it out now
Click to expand...
Just in case you were wondering how the system sounds, here's my 68 Barracuda the first day I took it out of the garage after completing the re-assembly of the car.


 
I had early 340 manifolds on my 67 and 65 Barracudas. I sold the two pairs of 340 manifolds for enough to buy two sets of TTI's. The TTI's fit like a glove in my 67. The ones for the 65 were more difficult and required things like wiring and brake lines to be moved. But neither set leaks or rattles, and the performance of both cars was, as they say, "greatly enhanced."
 
junkyardhero said:
post a wanted ad here in the classifieds and i'm sure something will turn up.

there's a set on e-bay right now.

either way be prepared to open your wallet wide.

if you don't care about originality or eeking out the last bit of performance 318 or 360 manifolds would work fine, as would even some magnum units. or invest in a set of top of the line headers that fit well.
Click to expand...
OK, thanks, I will keep looking, my have to go back to headers, a better set
 
69 Cuda man said:
I have a 1969 Plymouth Barracuda that I am trying to find exhaust manifolds for, the car came with headers that hit everything you could imagine and the car sounds like a $3.00 rattle can that is driving me crazy. I can not seem to find anything out there that will fits, so it has been sitting at a custom exhaust shop for 3 weeks now, neither one of us has had any luck finding manifolds, does anyone know where I might find something? Would very much appreciate the help, the weather is starting to get nice and I feel it may be sitting for quite some time, thanks.
Click to expand...
One thing we don't allow here is sale and wanted requests in forums other than in "Mopar For Sale Ad" forums.
1716489596506.png

junkyardhero said:
post a wanted ad here in the classifieds and i'm sure something will turn up.
Click to expand...
This is exactly what he needs to do.
 
AJ/FormS said:
How much are TTIs now? or Dougs?
compared to a nice set of 340 iron logs?
You're paying a lotta money for the logs and giving up a lotta torque/power, throughout the rev range.
Any header is better than no header.
Jus saying.
-------------------------------------
While the 340 logs are adequate for a street 340, with a factory cam, with it's very modest overlap period; as soon as you step away from that 114 LSA, and go to a proper 107/108, those logs will kill the overlap period ........... which if you have 3.23s and a stock stall, I guess is not the end of the world, cuz first gear will get you to sixty mph, or thereabouts, and a 360 may still be spinning the tires..
But here's the payback;
With headers, and a tight LSA cam, you can run a cam at least one size smaller, maybe two, than with logs and the 340 cam; and that means that the combo has the potential to pick up a sizeable amount of steady-state fuel-economy; in addition to a major increase in off-the-line jump, due to the increased amount of cylinder pressure. If you have a low-compression 318, this is a really big deal, because the cylinder pressure is already so low.
-----------------------------------------------
I was thinking;
If you level your car from side to side, using the frame for reference, and then put a level on the airhorn;
My guess is that the engine is not level, which usually ends up poorly for the headers; and soft mounts will do the rest. Once the engine is back in the factory pocket, headers ain't so bad. I highly recommend restraining the engine to just a degree or two of motion.
On the street, 1.03 bars, HD shocks, and a proper street ride-height, will do wonders for not beating up on the under-the-steering headers. If you stiffen up the front, you will have to stiffen up the rear, else you will be doing a lot of impromptu sliding, to the point of spinning out when cornering (or maybe when changing lanes if you drive like I do). Stay alert; if the back-end steps out, you can bet it wants to pass you, and you may have only milliseconds to fix the situation.
Jus saying.
Click to expand...
Well spoken.
I remember the good ol days when shorty headers weren't invented yet.
Funny how we all made the long tube headers work.
 
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