SpeedyDart68
Just say no to trailer queens!
Question, can this be fixed/saved? If so, who do you recommend? Thanks in advance for your help! 
1970 340 SHORTBLOCK OR BOAT ANCHOR?
- Thread starter SpeedyDart68
- Start date
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Yes but you will want to find a good welder to do it. It will need proper pre-heating, weld with nickel rod and cooled properly(slow). Basically your going to need to weld the holes up solid and re-drill them.
abdywgn
dismantler
what about spray welding? unless you have the pieces to reattach,then see above.
Not saying anything that already hasn't been said, but take it to a machine/fabrication shop that does powder flow torch welding.
Never used the spray weld but I have a friend who does it. Its usually used to build up shafts where they are worn. I dont know how well it would work in a situation like this.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
How about the composite molding steel crap at the parts store counter. Lol
How much is it worth? It's one hole and the locator still makes it, right?
How much is it worth? It's one hole and the locator still makes it, right?
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Krooser
Building Chinese Free Engines since 1959...
Braze a bolt into the original hole then redrill it. Or braze a piece into the gap that is missing metal then redrill it. Or braze up the entire hole and redrill it. Or leave it alone. Or send it to me... I'll pay the freight.
T56MaxTorq
Well-Known Member
Unless this was an extravagant engine build with high power, I’d leave that alone. The dowel pin takes all the load here. Smooth it with a file and put in a brand new dowel then gently clamp on a washer and nut. Spray metal, arc weld, etc will cost way too much money and probably damage the block. To keep that surface true, you have to bolt on a flange like the transmissions to prevent the block flange from warping under heat.
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SpeedyDart68
Just say no to trailer queens!
I do not have the piece that broke off.
Leave it as is. looks like you have everything you need. I'd run that as is.
SpeedyDart68
Just say no to trailer queens!
Well......... I was going to stroke it and build a 575 HP motor. I don't think this is the one!
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
it's fine
btw that area is in compression
btw that area is in compression
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
My friend welds many alloys 8 hours a day for decades. Stick, mig, tig. A little preheating and tig a nice stud there , no sweat. Then we zyglo test
I'd never stroke a 340. Stroke a 360. As for the 340, you are only missing one bolt out of seven holding the bell housing on.
SpeedyDart68
Just say no to trailer queens!
Dudes, this is what I'm trying to build again: Smothers Tuned SuperCars - Current Projects - Eddy's 1968 Dodge Dart
The car was a blast to drive! Pure L I V I N'
The car was a blast to drive! Pure L I V I N'
Slantsix64
Well-Known Member
I think all my blocks are broken there
Never saw one break there.
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Krooser
Building Chinese Free Engines since 1959...
I agree, braze is a solid repair on cast iron. Just as strong as the cast in my opinion.
Hey, I have an old poly 318 block sitting in my scrap pile. I can cut a big chunk out and send it to you.
Hey, I have an old poly 318 block sitting in my scrap pile. I can cut a big chunk out and send it to you.
Bighead440
Well-Known Member
I'm not a welder by far, but I'd put a dowel pin back in the hole, braze or weld back around that and then just leave the side of the bolt hole open after grinding it back round at the dowel weld/braze. Then I'd get an ARP or McMasterCarr hardened STUD, nut and washer to use there (the threads are in the bellhousing) instead of the factory bolt. I wouldn't be scared of it one bit, as once it's alogned with the dowel, it is under compression as mentioned above.
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Krooser
Building Chinese Free Engines since 1959...
As mentioned you could install the dowel pin and braze it to the block... really I wouldn’t worry about running it the way it is. Install the dowel pin and bolt on the trans. My race motor has two mounting lugs broken off the block... no big deal.
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