1970 Dart - Single-Wire Alternator Conversion

-
Gamedog

Gamedog

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2016
Messages
599
Reaction score
865
Location
Colorado
Gents -

I've scoured through these threads and am not finding one with a similar setup as I have (very likely could be a thread already like this but am not finding it, sorry if so)

Going from factory alternator to this alternator as I have a number of electrical mods and fried my alternator and my fusible link a few months back and I have a few questions...

1. I bought this 6GA wire to run from my alternator to my battery and want to install a fuse - what size do you guys recommend?

2. I want to eliminate the ammeter, what is the simplest way to do this? I tried looking at the MAD Electrical way and confused the hell out of myself... Is there a simpler way? If anyone is in the metro Denver area that would like to do this for me I would gladly pay them

3. I have an MSD 6AL ignition, does this throw anything off in any way?

Thanks in advance for any input! Again, if anyone around the Denver Metro area would like to do this for me, I'd gladly pay as I don't feel 100% comfortable with electrical.

GD
 
The big big big issue with this conversion is

1....Large enough wire from alternator to battery for two or three reasons. Once of course is to carry the current, but a "one wire" has the voltage sense AT THE ALTERNATOR. This means that there can be no/ very little voltage drop on that charging wire or the battery will run low

2....Eliminate or rebuild the terminals in the bulkhead connector (at least on the two large black and red wires) so they will carry the current. Disconnect the two ammeter wires and bolt them/ splice them together. When you bypass the ammeter in this way, one advantage is, that the two original wires (red an black) now become parallel, acting as feeds INTO the interior. This helps with "the problem" and since they no longer carry charging current, part of the problem is "removed."

3...Fusing/ breaker on the new charge wire. This depends on the alternator output and the size of wire. You need VASTLY oversize wire, DO NOT go by conventional size charts. In other words if you think you need no6, you may need no 4.

Depending on what chart/ recommendation you read, a near 100A output is "right at" the top edge of no6. You may INDEED want to consider no4 instead
 
Personally I do NOT care for "one wire" setups. The require abnormally large charge wires, which can be quite large for trunk mount setups. The voltage drop of the charge wire when using an external regulator or a "3 wire" integral is not nearly so important, because when wired properly, the "sens" wire feeds from battery to regulator---which keeps the battery voltage proper, regardless of drop in the charge wire.

External or "3 wire" setups can also be much easier to deal with with trunk mount, where you need a disconnect system "on race day."

Without some expensive "load dump device" for disconnect, I know of no good way to protect the alternator / system from spikes in a disconnect while running situation, using a one wire alternator. Some racers insist on running the charge wire direct from alternator to battery. THIS DOES NOT RESULT in a disconnect. YOU are the guy who will be hanging upside down in the belts with fuel pouring all over, and that hot charge wire ready to weld away. Think about it.
 
Thanks for the help and input guys!

The article above definitely helps to explain things a bit easier, thanks!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top