1970 Duster AlterKtion, 4 Link, LS/T56/Turbo and Minitub

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The heat range of that plug is about as close as you can expect to be also.
 
Yeah he was incredible. Id recommend him to anyone in the PA area. I actually drove all the way from VT 7 hours down to him in Pottstown because of what I'd seen him do fixing peoples mess-ups and the stuff he posted on youtube. Thats how I found him lol. PSR Performance is the name of the shop if anyone is looking. He actually teaches classes on tuning and stuff on the side as well.
 
The coloration of the threaded portion of the plug closest to the chamber is how to read heat range. You’d like to see 1 or 2 threads colored dark for optimal heat range. Yours look to be right there. Too cold and more threads will be blackened. Too hot and less threads will be.
 
Ohhh, good to know! I may have missed that part of the lesson. Or we skipped over it. I probably just missed it/forgot since it was a lot to take in, in a quick lesson while changing plugs haha.
 
From the man himself.

If you don’t know who Steve Morris is just type his name in to YouTube. He’s a turbo god as far as I’m concerned. And a super nice guy in person.
 
Getting ready to take the car to New England Dragway in Epping NH the last weekend of October! Anyone else gonna be there? I had to add hood pins because the edges of the hood were trying to lift when driving the car.

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Also thought you guys may enjoy this video. I had no idea my sister was even home never mind in the living room able to take a video!
 
TT5.9mag said:
From the man himself.

If you don’t know who Steve Morris is just type his name in to YouTube. He’s a turbo god as far as I’m concerned. And a super nice guy in person.
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I dont want to "plug" up the thread, but when reading the plug.....Is the best case scenario....a fresh set of plugs with a good pull through 3rd then shut down and read.....correct?
 
clementine said:
I dont want to "plug" up the thread, but when reading the plug.....Is the best case scenario....a fresh set of plugs with a good pull through 3rd then shut down and read.....correct?
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The trick is to install new plugs, limit idling around or sitting in traffic, make a wide open pull in high gear through a wide RPM range. Then shut it down and coast to a stop. Pull the plugs and read em. Easy on a dyno, not so easy on the street.
 
70DusterDev said:
Getting ready to take the car to New England Dragway in Epping NH the last weekend of October! Anyone else gonna be there? I had to add hood pins because the edges of the hood were trying to lift when driving the car.

View attachment 1715805846

Also thought you guys may enjoy this video. I had no idea my sister was even home never mind in the living room able to take a video!
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I like how your sister laughs and calls you a dick.
:rofl:
 
70DusterDev said:
I got the call from the machine shop that my heads and motor were finished so I went and picked that up after I was done painting. Masked off the block and got that painted.

View attachment 1715368185 View attachment 1715368186 View attachment 1715368187

Step 4: Install front alterKtion kit.
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Man this kit sure went together well. Very easy to install.
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I'm planning on installing the same kit in my 72 Dart over the winter. Since it's a race only vehicle I'll be going with a manual rack and won't need motor mounts as I use a motor plate. My only concern is will the Wilwood brake calipers I currently have on the car fit the spindles supplied with the kit. I guess I will ask that question when I order it. From beginning to end about how long did it take you to install it, and were there any unexpected issues with the install?
 
Les Gibson said:
I'm planning on installing the same kit in my 72 Dart over the winter. Since it's a race only vehicle I'll be going with a manual rack and won't need motor mounts as I use a motor plate. My only concern is will the Wilwood brake calipers I currently have on the car fit the spindles supplied with the kit. I guess I will ask that question when I order it. From beginning to end about how long did it take you to install it, and were there any unexpected issues with the install?
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It only took a few hours. Basically one evening after work. As for bolting the K member in, that went incredibly smooth and quick. Only had to drill 2 holes. Then just took a little time to assemble the control arms with the bushings and bolt them in etc. But nothing was hard.

If you also got the rear 4 link, that took a little more time as there's a bit more cutting and fabricating to that kit.
 
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Welp! For those of you wondering how things are going, I went to New England Dragway last weekend! I failed tech for a few little things but they gave me a homework list of what to do for next year (rear firewall because rear battery, rear killswitch because non factory turbo, clutch safety switch etc etc) but still let me run because it was the last street night and only an 1/8 mile since the end of the track was wet.

Got up to staging, took off as soon as I saw the 3rd yellow like I was told to (I even let off for a second because I thought I might have redlighted since I left so much earlier than the BMW next to me) aannndd then I blew my ring and pinion lmao. Sooo we wont know the 1/4 mile times till next season.



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Just a small update here. Kind of ran into a snowball like every typical project >.<

I had bought a new Yukon 3rd member for the 8.75. Then decided that I was just going to break that again and had a good Dana 60 laying around so I started doing some homework. I thought the 60 was going to weigh much more than a 9" or 8.75, and I already had the rear disc conversion kit from Dr. Diff so I really wanted to retain that and the working Ebrake. After some research I found a few different things:

The semi float dana 60 is actually 35lbs LIGHTER than a 9"
Axle Weights

Mancini and Doctor Diff make weld on flange ends to accept the 8.75 brakes and green bearings
Moser Engineering Rear Axle Housing Ends

Dr Diff makes a BAD *** calculator for cutting down a 60 to work in our cars.
DoctorDiff Housing/Axle Calculator

So after these findings, I put together an order from Dr. Diff for some 35 spline shafts, suregrip posi, 4.10 gears, master rebuild kit, axles seals, new flange bolts and a new 1350 yoke. I'll have about $1600 in parts for the 60 which is what I spent on a new 3rd member for the 8.75 (I already have sold now to cover that cost) but will be able to handle 1000hp or so from what I've read.

With great horsepower comes great parts upgrades. sigh... so while the rear axle is out I pulled the T56 to upgrade the clutch because I had the 800hp clutch in the car before with only mid 600hp expectations. When the car made 780 on the dyno I knew I messed up. So I sent that clutch back to be upgraded to the 1200hp clutch.

While the trans was out I started an argument with myself saying the T56 will be the new weakest link (being good for 6-700hp) and while its out and functioning well I should sell it to recoup my $2000 I paid for it. So before it turned into a pile broken parts I decided to bite the bullet on the new T56 Magnum F. The bright side of this is I'll have the .68:1 double overdrive instead of the useless .5:1.

Long story short a quick 8.75 fix turned into a $6000 winter upgrade Ramen noodle festival. My ol man always said "you have to pay to be cool" when I was younger and now I'm understanding this phrase all too well haha.
 
Thanks! And at least selling the T56 will drop that price down $2000 or so, so that helps! THEN, hopefully I can just enjoy the car this summer! We shall see lol though now that I'll have the supporting drivetrain I'll probably slap the new 120lb injectors I have for it in with the 2 new bigger pumps and shoot for the 850whp. Why not right?
 
You are playing the turbo guys game. Next will be a change to e85 then more boost. Then why not, more compression and alcohol, then…..then…..then….
Ask me how I know.
:rofl:
 
lmao no way! Luckily we dont have E85 up here so that helps with that! I'm already 11:1 compression so I'm going to keep telling myself this will be it! hahaha
 
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70DusterDev said:
Thanks! And at least selling the T56 will drop that price down $2000 or so, so that helps! THEN, hopefully I can just enjoy the car this summer! We shall see lol though now that I'll have the supporting drivetrain I'll probably slap the new 120lb injectors I have for it in with the 2 new bigger pumps and shoot for the 850whp. Why not right?
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Let's go already geeeze
 
Got the upgraded clutch back last week and this just came in today!

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Now just waiting for dana 60 parts to be back in stock!
 
Updates!

Got the new Corbeau RRS seats in last night, new harnesses that are date correct to pass tech, new rear mounted sealed battery box to pass tech in the trunk and kill switch in the back bumper also to pass tech. I need to take some pictures and I also need to add a damn clutch safety switch.

I also just bought a hydroboost system from Hydratech today! Excited to have good brakes! But they're 120 days out :/ so that will be here for the end of the season haha.

Still waiting on getting the 60 geared so I can slap that in.
 
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