1970 duster clone. need opinions.

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bk_cauley

bk_cauley

led sled 70
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hey guys im looking at trading my mustang for a 1970 340 4 speed duter clone. the car is basically rust free. the only rust spot i found was next to the windshield trim and its not much just a nickel sized spot. anyways here are some pictures of the car and i will include a link to my car at the end of the post.

6749397535527-1970-340-4-speed-dust.jpg


car1.jpg


car2.jpg


car3.jpg


car5.jpg


and here is my car. its a basic heads, cam, intake EFI fox coupe has a bunch of go fast goodies. pretty fast and well taken care of. just want to see if i am gettig a good trade here. and if someone can put a monatary value on the duster for me please do so.

http://s538.photobucket.com/albums/ff345/bcauley9844/
 
I like the Duster, particularly the color combp.

I raise a concern. The paint job looks good, but they did not follow it all the way into the engine compartment. I personally would like to see the engine pulled, compartment detailed and painted to match at the time of paint. It would not require much more effort, and the results would have been much better.
 
im NO pro but too me it looks like someone put a nice but quick paint job on it,cleaned it all up on the outside to sell. Having the engine compartment and also the motor NOT painted/cleaned up, drops the value way down for me. What are they asking for the duster or is it a trade??
 
Looks like a quickie paint job to be too. And, if you've got rust coming through the paint in one spot there's sure to be rust hiding under the paint in other areas. None of this is to say you shouldn't buy it but you need to be sure it isn't over valued. A VIN number would help determine the cars' origins.
 
Yeah...what's on the fender tag. Looks like a real stripper car from what I can see on the tag.

What it would need to make it look more correct is what has already been mentioned, IP cluster, shifter, seat covers (although those look livable) and what's up with that wing? It's anything but correct.

What kind of cash value do you put on your Fox???
 
being a clone here are some things to consider. all paint job comments are valid. i too would like the engine compattment to be matching and detailed. front bumper looks like it is crooked. pitched down on the passengerside. if it is a clone what was used in the clone process? the fendertag looks kinda bare. was this an original v8 or slant 6 car? does it have an 8 3/4 rear in it now? if not the engine in it now may end up snapping the rear axles. exactly what engine is in it? 360 or 340? what year is the engine and what has been done to it? lastly does it have a clear title? you know what you have now so look into these things and post back here before you jump into the fire. we can help you here...
 
As previously asked, you need to put an expected price on your moosetang so we have something to compare with.

It may just be the lighting, but the blackout stripes on the tailpanel look like they were taped out or put on after the guy had way too many wobbly pops. And I especially like the body colored rubber hood bumpers. Quickie!!
 
In this case, I'd rather own the 5 litre.
NICE lookin Stang ya got there.
If you plan to trade for this car, and then "go through" it to make it look better, you might be better off buying a car that is in WORSE shape. Let me explain. For example, if you pay more for a car with fresh paint, but you need to fix rust, then repaint, why not buy a car that needs paint for a lot less? If you plan to have the bumpers chromed, why not buy a car that has shitty bumpers already, and simply buy the rechromed ones and ship yours off as cores?
You'll be miles ahead if this car is a 340, has an 8-3/4 rear WITH SureGrip, and doesn't need ANY engine work, but keep in mind that once you start digging in, you'll likely not want to bolt old, crappy looking parts back onto your car, and you end up upside down in the car QUICKLY. All the while, someone ended up with a CHERRY Mustang to drive.

If you really want a project, buy on old Duster, and make it what you want.

Pasta
 
is there any way i can tell just buy looking at it what engine it is? and how can i I.D. the rear end. and as of today the guy is putting in new carpet and cleaning it up better. i looked all under the car everywhere and there was no rust anywhere. i even got to see the floor pans when he was swapping the carpet and they look good. and i honestly dont know if it was an origanol v8 car or not. i have lots more pictures of it if anyone wants to look over them and see if they can spot some stuff. i am trying to sell my fox for $6500 btw.

and as far as site karisma you guys deffinatly rock. i have been on a few mustang forums and there is always someone coming out trying to put you down, and i have seen none of that on here. everyone has been nothing but helpfull. and as far as statement's about the car, yall put them across where one can tell your not bashing but giving helpfull advice. and i thank you all for it. even if i dont get this car im gonna continue my search for a nice A body and will deffinatly be back on here.
 
I've done work to it (and am doing more) but I gave less than that for this car. It is a /6 car with a 360, 727, and 8.75 w/3.91 gears and Wilwood brakes up front

It is, however, not 100% rust free

P0002255.jpg
 
can someone put a monitary value on it for me? and if need be i have a butt load of recent (today) pictures i can upload.
 
let's start with the underneath. do you have any pics from underneath? the rear axle is easy to identify. an 8 3/4 rear will look like a smooth round ball from the back looking at it from the rear bumper.no bolts holding a cover on will be seen as well. engine identification is pretty easy as well. do you have any pics of the fendertag? it is the little metal sitting on the inside of the fender on the drivers side inside the engine compartment. the vin number of the car will have a letter in the fifth digits place. in other words ( ex. lm28h) this letter will tell you what the cars engine was originally. the next number following the letter will be a number. like a 0,1,2,3,4, ect... this will be what year the car is really. on the engine it will have a number on it on the block. i forget what side it is on (passenger side i think) there will be a bunch of numbers on it followed by 3 numbers to the right of the numbers. these 3 numbers will be either 318 , 340 ,or 360. this will tell you what cu.in engine is in it now..... post some pics of the inside of the trunk, underneath , fendertag, and anything else like rust. let us see these and we can help further....
 
I am going to go out on a limb for a dollar figure, and say 3500-4500 bucks. I agree that there is a good chance for some or lots of hidden rust if some is already showing through.

Legal disclaimer. This is my opinion. This is not guaranteed fact, Kelley blue book, or law. :-D
 
Legal disclaimer. This is my opinion. This is not guaranteed fact, Kelley blue book, or law. :-D[/QUOTE]

lol... now that is covering your ***!!!
 
well you have pics that are on the edge of everything you needed to see. i "looks" like this is an 8 3/4 rear from what i can see. trunk looks ok from what i can see of it. frame rails look pretty good. what little floor i can see looks ok. really need better pics to really tell anything more. get it on a lift or jack it up and snap some more pics if you can. also check the vin number out for the letters and number i mentioned. snap a pic of the fendertag too. while it is jacked up look on the side if the block for those numbers i mentioned ending with 318, 340, or 360. post back when you get this. also where the drive shaft connects to the rear. there will be a number on the drivers side. it will be either 741, 742 ,489. these will indicate what type of rear is in the car if it is an 8 3/4. good luck
 
i will get the owner to do that for me. he is a few hours away now. but i will email him and ask him tonight to do. lets just say it IS a 340, 8 3/4 rear. what would that put the value at? i just want to make sure im not getting ripped here.
 
Pretty clean 'stang you've got there! About the duster, seems good for some 3000-4500 bucks. Only thing is that you will have to be aware and examine very carefully in search of hidden rust/bondo. In my opinion, I dont think its a fair trade for the mustang taking into account that there's a huge probability that mechanical "surprises" might arrive, taking as a warning the engine compartment condition and hidden rust it shows at certain spots (RH trunk line). Besides, if the car has a quickie paint job and a overall fair condition, What problem can be hidden in the drivetrain? Maybe if you get the duster and some cash, it could get to be fair at some point.
 
okay guys i just talked with him and pretty much explained to him what you guys explained to me and he was cool with it. so i guess im gonna pass on the duster.

one last question. can i still hang out and BS with you guys? i might end up having an old mopar before its over. never know. also got my eye on a dart but the guy wont come off of it.
 
Sure. I've got a Stang and they let ME stay:-D

course, I've also got FIVE MOPARS:cheers:
 
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