I'm looking into buying a 1970 Road Runner but no very little to nothing of these cars. I'm into older Packards but like this car and am seriously thinking of buying it. The seller says it's a true V-code car but has as a short block from 1969 440 with a purple cam and deep pan. He's asking $31K. He says even the carbs are the correct ones and I'll try to post engine and exterior pics. Thanks for your help.
1970 Road Runner
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67 prostreet gt
Well-Known Member
nothingbutdarts
Well-Known Member
Build sheet? Fender tag? All numbers match up on the car and the other VIN number locations?
moparlover
Well-Known Member
if the body is as clean as the pictures show, grab it. you wont find many like that, and it costs over 10K just to get the body acceptable, sometimes more.
it's a lot easier and cheaper to get engines build or mechanical work, even interior stuff done.
it's a lot easier and cheaper to get engines build or mechanical work, even interior stuff done.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
As said above, there should be no question unless the VIN has been tampered with. "RM23VOA.........." The "V" means one thing..............440 six barrel. Other things in the fender code. If it's a 4 speed car it should have the Dana 60 rear end, my understanding is that some auto cars came with either Dana or Mopar 8 3/4
Google "Mopar VIN decoder" for info
Is this supposed to be an original Road Runner body, or a "clone" IE Satellite converted?
Google "Mopar VIN decoder" for info
Is this supposed to be an original Road Runner body, or a "clone" IE Satellite converted?
Yes, you are correct. All 4 speed Hemis and Six Packs came standard with Danas. Optional on Automatics. (The automatic could "dampen" the shock load enough to get away with a 8 3/4 with an Auto. 4 speeds, not so much...)
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Used to own one of these girls. Wish I could afford one now..........No good photos anymore
http://moparforums.com/forums/f62/my-old-ride-back-day-596/
http://moparforums.com/forums/f62/my-old-ride-back-day-596/
Check the body over real good. I bought a Challenger that LOOKED GOOD, but had some "not so good" bodywork under the paint.... But it is much better now.
Make sure that there is good sheet metal. Check to see if floorboards and trunk floor have been worked on. If so, Were they replaced or just "patched over" (you can tell by looking for the original ribs in the floor pans).
Does it have the "air grabber" hood scoop. A huge hood scoop that is vacuum operated by a switch inside to make it pop up when you want it to. Very cool option.
Does it have the purple "beep-beep" voice of Roadrunner horn? It sounds like Roadrunner from Looney Tunes cartoons.
I see that it is an automatic. Is it column shift or console?
There was an optional "ralley dash" cluster that came with a 150 MPH speedometer and a tachometer/clock combo (called the Tic-Toc-Tach). Like I said, it was optional, not every car came with one.
There was a decal for that year where it had Roadrunner running on the front fender and a cloud of smoke all the way to the scoop on the rear quarter panel.
Why does the front end sit higher than the rear? I prefer the rear higher than the front.
Make sure that there is good sheet metal. Check to see if floorboards and trunk floor have been worked on. If so, Were they replaced or just "patched over" (you can tell by looking for the original ribs in the floor pans).
Does it have the "air grabber" hood scoop. A huge hood scoop that is vacuum operated by a switch inside to make it pop up when you want it to. Very cool option.
Does it have the purple "beep-beep" voice of Roadrunner horn? It sounds like Roadrunner from Looney Tunes cartoons.
I see that it is an automatic. Is it column shift or console?
There was an optional "ralley dash" cluster that came with a 150 MPH speedometer and a tachometer/clock combo (called the Tic-Toc-Tach). Like I said, it was optional, not every car came with one.
There was a decal for that year where it had Roadrunner running on the front fender and a cloud of smoke all the way to the scoop on the rear quarter panel.
Why does the front end sit higher than the rear? I prefer the rear higher than the front.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I believe those were called "dust trails" My car had them when new, they got left off when repainted after some young lady-----window shopping----mashed into my car at a stop light. In fact in the photo of mine in the mid 70's I didn't even have "the birds" on the car.
This was my dad's. It was his favorite car. I believe that this was really 89 Talledega we were able to do a parade lap on the track before the race with the Daytona/Superbird Auto Club. I think we had 105 total Superbirds and Daytonas show up. That's dad in the middle of all of us.
View attachment Sprbrd Tall A01 C2.jpg
View attachment Sprbrd Tall A01 C2.jpg
Great old picture, Karl.
Denny
Well-Known Member
The VIN should start RM21V not RM23V as thc car is a coupe with fold out rear windows.It shows the AIR GRABBER in the engine shot and also power brakes.If it is a 440+6 coupe automatic,they only made 222,so its pretty rare.It looks like B7 blue if thats the original color its fairly rare also.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Sorry I was using that as example. Mine was a HT. My point was to get the guy to get the VIN attempt to make sure it's legit, and decode it. At one time I had mine memorized, and had it written in the front of my shop manual. Unfortunately, I've forgotten, and the shop manual 'ate' the first few pages, LOL
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Minor to the package as a whole but you might check that the carb list numbers are for the year. I think the Holley re-pops have a new date code but with the old list numbers. Fast Curb Idle solenoid used that year?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Yes.
moparlover
Well-Known Member
the car is clearly not all original factory correct numbers matching yadi yadi yadi
but the value of the car lies in it's body. it takes years to get body work done if they are rusted out, unless you can do it yourself, and have welding equipment and a place to do it. there are a few places that will do that kind of work, but it cost huge bucks.
my point of my post is that if this car has a body in excellent shape it's worth the dough... if you are buying this to flip it and sell it as all original, forget it. I'm not even an expert and I can tell you it's obviously not an all original museum piece lol. wheels are not original the air cleaner looks brand spankin new rear springs are sagging etc.
but the value of the car lies in it's body. it takes years to get body work done if they are rusted out, unless you can do it yourself, and have welding equipment and a place to do it. there are a few places that will do that kind of work, but it cost huge bucks.
my point of my post is that if this car has a body in excellent shape it's worth the dough... if you are buying this to flip it and sell it as all original, forget it. I'm not even an expert and I can tell you it's obviously not an all original museum piece lol. wheels are not original the air cleaner looks brand spankin new rear springs are sagging etc.
68383GTS
Well-Known Member
Make sure you check the core support and trunk lip for the vin #s.Does it have a fender tag and or buildsheet?
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
We recently paid around 20K for the '70 Roadrunner 383 4-speed that we bought. All fresh drive train, suspension, interior and new trunk floor and quarter patch panels. Still needs body finished. Sounds like a heck of a deal if everything is kosher. -especially if it's a six pack car. This is a pic of ours sent to me by the original owner from thirty-some years ago.
Yes IF the body is in excellent shape.... He has to make sure it isn't a pig wearing lipstick.
Thanks for all the replies! I can't go see the car in person but have bought many cars like this but never a Road Runner. What are the definite things to ask the seller regarding the authenticity of this car? Is the 69 440 short block a negative? Were all 440 engines in these cars short blocks?
discharger1332
Well-Known Member
i am pretty sure the 440's were complete
What do you mean?
A short block is an engine without heads it's the block , crank, cam and pistons
you should definitely have the car inspected by someone before you make a purchase
the price is on the low side for a true V code car could be a polished turd
you should definitely have the car inspected by someone before you make a purchase
the price is on the low side for a true V code car could be a polished turd
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
It sounds as though the seller has a car that would be all original except that the 'short block' (block, pistons, cam, connecting rods) has been replaced at some time with one from a 1969. The original engine most likely was blown and the heads, intake, carbs, and exhaust were salvaged.
cuda dad
Well-Known Member
The short block is the engine minus the heads and manifolds. When they say 1969 short block it means the engine is a 1969 not a 1970. If this car is a six pack it would have come from the factory with a special engine which is no longer with the car. This will lower the value perhaps 10 to 15 percent (my opinion). You should ask the seller if they have the original engine from the car and a clear title.
Most importantly you should get the serial number of the car to verify it is a six pack car. The easiest to see are on the dash, the drivers door, the data plate under the hood, the radiator support, and on the left side of the transmission. Have them send you good pictures of the numbers.
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