1971 Dart Swinger

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Most turbo's when balanced have the ends of the impeller shafts shaved for balance. That star lookin part on the end on the turbine side, and the nut on the compressor side. If there not balanced, soon as you build boost the turbo will go boom!
 
AnotherA,
Did you have presence on www.theturboforums.com?
Is that the VS racing that you bought through?

The master power series is very strong on the turbo forums. They have had good response, solid performance histories, and those guys really challenge a non performing product.

There are also a ton of guys over there that are running a blow through carb setup. There are some things that need to be done to the carbs, but they have a DYI section, or there are several vendors that will make the modifications, or sell you a complete carb, ready for blow thru.

I am looking to GN turbo my /6 Dart. GO FOR IT!
 
I got the same rust issues. at some point I will start on it once some other projects are done. 100 projects now down to 99 lol.
 
Backtobasics said:
AnotherA,
Did you have presence on www.theturboforums.com?
Is that the VS racing that you bought through?

The master power series is very strong on the turbo forums. They have had good response, solid performance histories, and those guys really challenge a non performing product.

There are also a ton of guys over there that are running a blow through carb setup. There are some things that need to be done to the carbs, but they have a DYI section, or there are several vendors that will make the modifications, or sell you a complete carb, ready for blow thru.

I am looking to GN turbo my /6 Dart. GO FOR IT!
Click to expand...


I've been hanging out there for a while now and yep thats the VSRacing I got it through. I got by -Freak- over there.

Maybe I will get lucky and santa will bring me some more goodies for the car.
 
Moved the battery to the truck to allow for more manipulation room under the hood.

Now you see it.
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Now you don't.
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I've decided to do all the go fast parts before the major body stuff.
That way all my holes are drilled and dings have been put into the unfinished panels.

Next up is to get the headers and start massaging them to fit.
 
Ordered these Summit headers, hopefully I don't have to much massaging to do on the drivers side to keep my PS.
sum-g9044_w.jpg
 
Which side is turbo going on?

Worst case, you could cut at the collector, and splice in some 90 degree primaries angling down, to direct it right behind the PS pump?

Mine is /6 with manual steering and brakes, I have all kinds of room....:D
 
Hell you have half the engine bay to work with. hahaha

Its going on the passenger side.
 
Many years ago, when I lived in Texas, I saw a 70/71 Dart that had a big block ( IIRC, a 440 ) with custom headers that exited the up an to the front of the car to the two turbos then down around to the back. I never heard it run, but I bet it was DAMN fast!

j
 
I'm also moving the battery to the trunk on my 360 turbo install...I also went from power steering and brakes to manual to make more room. I'll be very interested to see how your headers get routed. Lookin' good!
 
Can someone tell me how in the hell to get the cluster out of the dash?
I have all the electrical disconnected and dropped the column.
I must be missing something.
 
took that off. Do you just tilt it to get it out? That route isn't working for me.
The back part of the cluster doesn't want to clear when tipping it out.

Found a post by RedFish with instructions on how to get it out. I've done everything that he had posted and still can't get the damn thing out.
I've walked away from it today and will try again tomorrow.

Seriously thinking about doing a custom cluster now.
 
there is low spot in the center of the cluster thats behind the dash. takes a little force, have to pry (carefully) on the top of the cluster. be careful not to break the pins on the back or parts of your cluster will not work. Good luck and may the force be with you.
 
Well I got my Aeromotive stuff today.
The pump is a wee bit larger then I expected.

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Here are the Pacesetter headers i will be installing.

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Was looking for a good place to put a tach. Ended up ripping the cluster out and deciding on doing a custom one because it was a major pain in the *** to get out and couldn't imagine trying to shoe horn that back into a finished dash.

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Starting to make the template for a gauge backing plate. Ran out of time today so all I got done was the initial measurement.

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Should have plenty space for gauges.

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I think I will be using the AutoMeter Pro Comp series gauges.

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That pump rocks. I would make sure to spend a few minutes with one of their techs on the tech line. TONS of knowledge.

They will recommend a 100 micron pre filter, a 10 micron post filter, plus using the smoothest and straightest hose and hose ends possible. They will want the pump gravity fed, which might be a little hard, but they will advise on how to mount it if you cannot gravity feed. Voltage is critical. Return line should be as far away from suction as possible to reduce cavitation of the fuel. Cavitation and lack of filtration are the primary killers of the pump.

Headers look promising.
 
Love that pump! I was gonna use it on my TurboScamp build, but I want it in the tank. As you now know, that pump is WAY too big to fit through the stock tank opening. I'm looking for an alternative...
 
I'm going to mount it on the passenger side frame rail just in front of the tank.
Going to drop the tank clean it out and then tap a return and put in a larger pick up.
Anyone know what the Ohm range is for the sending unit? Is it 0 empty/73 full?
 
GoFish said:
Love that pump! I was gonna use it on my TurboScamp build, but I want it in the tank. As you now know, that pump is WAY too big to fit through the stock tank opening. I'm looking for an alternative...
Click to expand...

Start with a new tank, and have the top enlarged to be able to mount inside?
 
AnotherA said:
I'm going to mount it on the passenger side frame rail just in front of the tank.
Going to drop the tank clean it out and then tap a return and put in a larger pick up.
Anyone know what the Ohm range is for the sending unit? Is it 0 empty/73 full?
Click to expand...

According to Autometer, most Chrysler is 73 empty, 10 full They have specific gauges within their lines, that match the stock sender...
 
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