1971 Demon 340 T/A build help

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pretty sure he recommends the 71 up B body shifter for A bodys....
Thats correct as outlined below

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I am not trying to duplicate a 'Cuda T/A with my '68 FB 340, but I am trying to get the most out of a stock chassis. I had the USCT Level 2 chassis kit installed by AMD when I had my quarter panels replaced. That and the rear valance were the only rusty parts of my '68. I have had the car since '69, so I wanted it better than stock and went a step beyond the AAR-T/A mods. Subframe connectors, torque boxes and radiator yoke supports will really help. Along with gusseted k-frame and boxed LCA's. Not everything that can be done, but probably enough to be happy with the performance of the car. Photos are of the instillation and painting of the underside of the car. Cars Remember When in Littleton did the paint and instillation work.

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Just finished installing Trans Am stripes and damn does that **** hit hard af!

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Looks good, but I think I would have the stripe a little wider behind the door, closer to the beltline near the quarter window.
 
They sure did but im dong mine as a resto mod cause it looks good sitting on 18’s

Just a suggestion..

Ever think about a flip-top gas cap like the 69 Cuda?
 
#damraider sells the adapter on FABO - here is the one on my 70 Dart GT
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It's not rubber, it's a hard material (Delrin???) and is, I believe, produced on a 3D printer. Lots of folks here have used these adapters with good results. Drop damraider a pm and he can provide details. Installation takes some work because the gas filler tube mount is different from year to year. My tube and flange installs from the inside of the trunk (isn't that how yours is???) and the new, longer screws go through the gas cap, through the adapter and through the quarter panel holes and screw into the filler neck flange like the originals.
 
i agree on some modern shocks.

as said, you've already deviated from a true replication with some modernized components so i'd stay the course with that.

you may not need a rear swaybar depending on your set up.

see if you can figure out what your rear spring rate is (HD tells us nothing) and then select t-bars that will compliment that.
I like the "Super Stock " springs. Helps to keep the car flat in curves. Remember the TA and AAR's were road cars not drag cars. I agree with an upgrade in shocks, being you are deviating from a stock format. When you present the finish car, the first place a Mopar person will check out is the TA marking on the block. Sounds like you are building an awesome ride. You going to exhaust out the rear or in front of the rear tires?
 
I like the "Super Stock " springs. Helps to keep the car flat in curves. Remember the TA and AAR's were road cars not drag cars. I agree with an upgrade in shocks, being you are deviating from a stock format. When you present the finish car, the first place a Mopar person will check out is the TA marking on the block. Sounds like you are building an awesome ride. You going to exhaust out the rear or in front of the rear tires?

Super stock springs are for drag racing. They raise the back of the car too much for good handling, and they’re actually too stiff for good handling as well.

As for checking for the T/A casting, seems silly because any Mopar purist would know that they never made a T/A A-body. So it wouldn’t be correct even if it had one.
 
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Super stock springs are for drag racing. They raise thr back of the car too much for good handling, and they’re actually too stiff for good handling as well.

As for checking for the T/A casting, seems silly because any Mopar purist would know that they never made a T/A A-body. So it wouldn’t be correct even if it had one.
Correct me if I'm wrong here but doesn't the super stock spring package also include an extra spring on passenger side to help offset chassis twist under hard acceleration? Good for straight line, not so much for handling.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong here but doesn't the super stock spring package also include an extra spring on passenger side to help offset chassis twist under hard acceleration? Good for straight line, not so much for handling.

Yes, the SS springs have an extra leaf on one side to counter the effects of a hard launch so the car launches straight and maintains equal traction.

In a hard cornering situation it would mean that the back end of the car would behave differently turning left vs turning right.

Their arch is too high anyway, and their spring rate is around 160 lb/in. Most of the high end handling leaf springs for these cars are in the 130 lb/in ballpark for spring rate.

The “green brick” used de-arched SS springs, but they used two driver side springs so they’d be the same # of leafs. And I believe they ran without a rear sway bar. Which is ok, but running a softer spring with an adjustable rear sway bar allows for better tuning opportunities.
 
I like the "Super Stock " springs. Helps to keep the car flat in curves. Remember the TA and AAR's were road cars not drag cars. I agree with an upgrade in shocks, being you are deviating from a stock format. When you present the finish car, the first place a Mopar person will check out is the TA marking on the block. Sounds like you are building an awesome ride. You going to exhaust out the rear or in front of the rear tires

I like the "Super Stock " springs. Helps to keep the car flat in curves. Remember the TA and AAR's were road cars not drag cars. I agree with an upgrade in shocks, being you are deviating from a stock format. When you present the finish car, the first place a Mopar person will check out is the TA marking on the block. Sounds like you are building an awesome ride. You going to exhaust out the rear or in front of the rear tires?
Going to be running the exact T/A exhaust system i was told should be direct 340 bolt in except the side muffler hangers
 
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