1971 Dodge Dart Swinger Restoration

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Location
Washington State
Here is my 1971 Dodge Dart that, long story short, a family friend decided to be the owner of a chop shop and my almost completed project (literally a paint job away) turned my beautiful car into junk yard status.

Because of the chop shop, a lot had to be done; brake lines were cut, the old rear end disappeared, most all of the suspension was stolen/cut, the guy torched the K member into multiple pieces, engine components were ripped off, the list goes on.

Here is where I'm at currently;
-Engine got rebuilt (Original number matching 318, I had a spare four barrel intake that I installed with a brand new four bbl holley carb)
-Transmission (numbers matching, flushed)
-Installed a 8 3/4 rear end (the gear ratio escapes me at this time)
-Brakes work (had to replace all the lines)
-Enough wiring was re-installed to get the spark plugs firing and the engine turning over
-Went ahead and replaced the small bolt pattern drums with rear 4.5 drums and front 4.5 discs
-New wheels/Tires
-Flushed the gas tank (It was BAD, been sitting for years)

The Street Fire ignition control unit that was on it failed so I just went back to the basic points set up.

I'm at the point I should be able to get it started but I'm at a loss and will need some help from anyone here.

I have spark at the spark plugs (Can take spark plugs out and they have a strong spark).
The carb is squirting fuel as it should.
Still no fire from the engine.
The timing should be fine, I was feeling the cylinder push air out to time it as I was turning over the engine.

This is my restoration so far and I will post pictures soon

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I just flushed all of this out of the gas tank too, might just need to replace it at this point since I'm sure there is more rust/debris in it.

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Did you try hook hose to fuel pump, drop hose into gas can, and see if it will run on fresh gas?
 
Did you try hook hose to fuel pump, drop hose into gas can, and see if it will run on fresh gas?
I haven't tried to directly suck from a can, I can give it a shot here tonight. I was hoping the flush I had from the tank was enough to clear debris and send fresh gas straight to the carb.
 
I'm currently in the western part, Kitsap county area. Couldn't get to testing the a hose directly to the can yet, I should be able end of this week at the latest.
 
I appreciate the thought. Here is where I'm at.
-Cleaned out the line for the pump/filter.
-Attached a bottle with some clean, fresh fuel.
-Found out the carb had a nozzle clog (due to my cheap filter) so I just cleared that with compressed air.
-With fuel entering the intake, still nothing.

I plan next to pull out each individual spark plug and check all of them for spark. After that I'm tempted to just have my wife turn over the car while I rotate the distributor to see if it catches.

That is unless you have a better idea. I am completely open to them all at this point regardless if I did it already or not.
 
I would go through the steps of setting the distributor. Check for the compression stroke and then use the pointer and mark on the dampener to set it to about 10 before. Then mark the #1 plug on the distributor so you know where the connection on the cap is. Then you can pull the cap and rotate the distributor until the rotor points at the mark. That should be enough to get it running if you have fuel and spark.

I know you said you did something like that, just suggesting you start at the beginning again.

Also, you can use starting fluid to verify a fuel issue. If it will fire on that but not run, then you know you have a fuel issue.

Lastly, make sure you haven’t flooded it. That will keep it from firing as much as no fuel would.

Just suggestions and ideas.
 
Sorry it took a bit to reply but I finally got it running.

I rechecked everything all over again, I poured transmission fluid down the intake to help seal the cylinder wall, and then when in crank it started to fire. Only issue is when you release the ignition switch to RUN, all spark went away. No putter, just stopped all together.

Turns out 12 volts wasn't getting to the coil when the ignition switch was in run. The wiring in the dash is so bastardized that I ran a temporary wire, switch, and fuse from the battery to the ballast resistor.

It now can run and drive. Next step is to replace the gas tank, get a better cooling fan, and decide what I want to do with the power steering pump.
 
Sorry it took a bit to reply but I finally got it running.

I rechecked everything all over again, I poured transmission fluid down the intake to help seal the cylinder wall, and then when in crank it started to fire. Only issue is when you release the ignition switch to RUN, all spark went away. No putter, just stopped all together.

Turns out 12 volts wasn't getting to the coil when the ignition switch was in run. The wiring in the dash is so bastardized that I ran a temporary wire, switch, and fuse from the battery to the ballast resistor.

It now can run and drive. Next step is to replace the gas tank, get a better cooling fan, and decide what I want to do with the power steering pump.
They sell full engine harnesses if yours is completely wrecked . Might be worth it for peace of mind.
 
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