Ironracer
Gearhead
I had one that said "Chrysler Firepower" on the Valve Covers.... 12.5 :1 and .060 over!Firedome hemi and a 5 speed please.
Awesome project
1971 Duster, Granny Special
- Thread starter wes beem
- Start date
-
Ironracer
Gearhead
Lay em in the Sun. And Tight is Right Brother!
65TerrorCuda
Well-Known Member
Sick!
Ironracer
Gearhead
Yessir, someone liked it more than i did. Cause they took it out of the garage when I wasn't home
65TerrorCuda
Well-Known Member
Holy F that sucks. I hope they rolled it onto their foot
Ironracer
Gearhead
Thanks Brother, 392 Hemis and Heads Don't grow on trees. It was back in the 90s but every now and then I still get pissed off about it...
Just found out a Friend's Dad/ Customer/ Work Reference and Referral Man Passed. Solid Man. Good Christian Dude. So in the grand scheme of things, it was just a few chunks of metal I guess
What would you like to know about it? It is/was a stock 8.25 out of a 74 Duster, had a doctor diff suregrip unit and 3.73 gears put in, all of the brake stuff is 2005 Jeep Liberty. I put 275 60 15 wheels/tires on it but i am going to have to run a 1/4" wheel spacer for leaf spring clearance. Anything else you need to know hit me up and ill see what i can do
Got some more work done today, rear brakes are fully in minus the lines,
rearend cover gasket out for delivery so that can go back on, and installed the 275 60 15 wheels/tires.
I'm going to have to run a 1/4" wheel spacer for leaf spring clearance but should be good to go.
Also finished tearing the motor down to block/heads. COuldnt find the bolts i need to get it on the engine stand yet so
Heads will have to wait until tomorrow.
Also have one stuck exhaust manifold stud and one broke off intake bolt thats gonna have to be attended to.
Currently enough sticking out of both to weld a nut on and try to remove that way. Hoping to avoid machineshop fees,
especially since nobody in Zanesville wants to work anymore.
rearend cover gasket out for delivery so that can go back on, and installed the 275 60 15 wheels/tires.
I'm going to have to run a 1/4" wheel spacer for leaf spring clearance but should be good to go.
Also finished tearing the motor down to block/heads. COuldnt find the bolts i need to get it on the engine stand yet so
Heads will have to wait until tomorrow.
Also have one stuck exhaust manifold stud and one broke off intake bolt thats gonna have to be attended to.
Currently enough sticking out of both to weld a nut on and try to remove that way. Hoping to avoid machineshop fees,
especially since nobody in Zanesville wants to work anymore.
Ironracer
Gearhead
Zanesville? Ohio?
65TerrorCuda
Well-Known Member
Yup
Got some motor work done. Tore the whole motor down to heads and block assembly. Degreased, cleaned, prepped, primed, and painted the motor in Chrysler Corporate Blue.
Replaced the timing chain, installed the cam snout adaptor and eccentric for fuel pump, LA Timing cover, and mechanical fuel pump installed, Replaced the valve seals, and reinstalled the heads with new head gaskets (duh) I am currently waiting for some funds to free up so I can buy my intake, Oil pan, Oil pan Gasket, and High volume oil pump which will complete the basic motor assembly.
Replaced the timing chain, installed the cam snout adaptor and eccentric for fuel pump, LA Timing cover, and mechanical fuel pump installed, Replaced the valve seals, and reinstalled the heads with new head gaskets (duh) I am currently waiting for some funds to free up so I can buy my intake, Oil pan, Oil pan Gasket, and High volume oil pump which will complete the basic motor assembly.
Time for an update, had to do some finagling around to get the rearend under the car.
Firstly, we had it all ready to go in only to find out the 7 1/4" shock plates wouldn't fit the 3" U Bolts so we were dead in the water waiting for new ones from Mancini's.
Once we got the new shock plates, we installed the rearend and shocks with little effort. BUT then we bolted the wheels/tires on and found out even with the 1/4" spacers they rubbed the leaf spring just enough to matter. SO had to sit for a few more days while i returned the 1/4" spacers to get the ones needed....
So to help anyone else out because these questions keep coming up and nobody seems to give a straight forward answer except vagaries and arguments.
Here's what I am running...
275-60-15s on 8" Jegs Sportlite Wheels with 4.5" of backspacing on stock leaf springs in a 1971 duster with an 8.25 suregrip rearend, 3.73 Gears, and Disc brakes.
It took 3/8" wheel spacers and longer wheel studs to pull off but no rub anywhere and absolutely no chance of fender well fitment issues.
Had I gotten a different back spacing Probably wouldnt have even needed the spacers at all, but again, It is difficult to get straight answers out of folks about what can be run.
So if someone says you CAN't fit 275's they are WRONG.
First pic is the wheel/tire under the car without the proper spacer to show how it was rubbing the Springs.
The remaining photos are once it was properly mounted and fitted with the right size wheel spacer.
Firstly, we had it all ready to go in only to find out the 7 1/4" shock plates wouldn't fit the 3" U Bolts so we were dead in the water waiting for new ones from Mancini's.
Once we got the new shock plates, we installed the rearend and shocks with little effort. BUT then we bolted the wheels/tires on and found out even with the 1/4" spacers they rubbed the leaf spring just enough to matter. SO had to sit for a few more days while i returned the 1/4" spacers to get the ones needed....
So to help anyone else out because these questions keep coming up and nobody seems to give a straight forward answer except vagaries and arguments.
Here's what I am running...
275-60-15s on 8" Jegs Sportlite Wheels with 4.5" of backspacing on stock leaf springs in a 1971 duster with an 8.25 suregrip rearend, 3.73 Gears, and Disc brakes.
It took 3/8" wheel spacers and longer wheel studs to pull off but no rub anywhere and absolutely no chance of fender well fitment issues.
Had I gotten a different back spacing Probably wouldnt have even needed the spacers at all, but again, It is difficult to get straight answers out of folks about what can be run.
So if someone says you CAN't fit 275's they are WRONG.
First pic is the wheel/tire under the car without the proper spacer to show how it was rubbing the Springs.
The remaining photos are once it was properly mounted and fitted with the right size wheel spacer.
I used a stock A body 8.75", with Dr. Diff big bolt pattern axles, stock 7.14" big bolt pattern brakes, stock 15 x 7 4.25" BS and 275's with no spacers, plenty of clearance.
Ironracer
Gearhead
I'm rolling 295/50/15s on Billet Specialty wheels. They need More BkSpc.. but they WORK with No Clearance issues. Only Cheat is SS Springs. They give the height. I COULD Have, and almost did, run 275/60/15s..
Now that the car was back on all 4 wheels/tires again, i Started attacking the interior again.
Floor pans are all cut and in, driver side is fully welded in, passenger side still needs some dickering to be done-done.
Started disassembling and dewiring the steering column and dash, and prepping everything for paint/primer.
Once the floors are fully welded in on passenger side, and dash/column are painted the long laborious task of installing the Painless Performance wiring harness can Begin!
Floor pans are all cut and in, driver side is fully welded in, passenger side still needs some dickering to be done-done.
Started disassembling and dewiring the steering column and dash, and prepping everything for paint/primer.
Once the floors are fully welded in on passenger side, and dash/column are painted the long laborious task of installing the Painless Performance wiring harness can Begin!
Those are the same floor pans I have for my 71. Did you stitch weld or just plug weld them in?
to be honest... i am not thrilled with the floors.
The car really needed and deserves the FULL DROP from AMD that is out of stock/backorder with no return date from literally everywhere.
Some of it is plug welded, some of it is pop riveted, some of it is full seam welded and stitched in with random steel plates. Its solid, but its not Right.
In the future (probably NEXT winter) if the AMD full drop ever comes back in stock I'll pull the interior out and redo it the Correct way.
Finished disassembly of interior today.
Pulled the trim and metal sail panels. Cleaned everything up, sanded, primed, and scuffed again.
I'll be painting the dash and all of the interior trim and steering column tomorrow in Satin black to match the insides of the doors.
I need to get Silver and White paint markers to retouch the lettering and surround of the heater control bezel post paint.
Pulled the trim and metal sail panels. Cleaned everything up, sanded, primed, and scuffed again.
I'll be painting the dash and all of the interior trim and steering column tomorrow in Satin black to match the insides of the doors.
I need to get Silver and White paint markers to retouch the lettering and surround of the heater control bezel post paint.
I would not sweat it, if it is structurally sound, concentrate on get it moving under its own power.
Got the dash, column, and interior trim pieces all painted up.
I'm especially proud of how the heater control bezel came out. I have a small spot to touch up with a black paint marker and then it'l be about perfect.
I'm especially proud of how the heater control bezel came out. I have a small spot to touch up with a black paint marker and then it'l be about perfect.
-
