1972 Dodge dart custom 4 dr trying to beef up.

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im open to suggestion on how to increase my horsepower and drivetain. and also some good websites to buy parts, especially parts for horsepower and for bumpers and front grill and lights...etc, Ive been searching but i keep falling short. help very much needed and would be greatly appreciated.
 
Welcome to FABO!
You found the right place, there's lots of people that are willing to help you on here.
I need more info. What engine and trans do you have now, and what is your budget? What ultimately do you want to achieve with the car?
Also, you can look on here in the forums section and find a category for what you are interested in. There is a lot to read, so you can plan on spending a lot of time on here just reading.
Good luck, and i hope this helps.
Tom.
 
what exactly does "beef" up mean? you want it to run 10 second quarter mile times? what do you want from it? you need to be a lot more specific.
 
im kinda in the same boat, i have a 73 dart swinger with the 225 3 spd auto...my grandpa is a drag engine builder, he said to start with exaust(sp?), and that the 2 part headers are best (gives you more room to work around them later...he said then do your intake (offenhauser of course, seems they are the only ones). he said 4 barel is fine but not to really go over 500cfm because youll flood it...he said at the same time you do your intake do a cam, again, if not you're just dumping to much gas in there....now, IMO, MSD is always nice, roller lifters and rockers (if they make em, im not sure), but the rollers would free up a ton of friction and possibly free up (im guessing) 30-40 horse...small things like electric fans cant hurt, take out the A/C (if you have it like me)......on a side note...i've been doing some looking around...when you get a intake, try to fine one that has each passage seperate (the two in the middle are normaly connected to each other) but ive come to understand that by sperating the middle two it help keep the heat down, wich of course is gonna help a little in torque....im not an expert, and im leaving this very open to scruteny, because again, im trying to get the same info as OP
 
after some more searching....be sure not to damage your intake or headers, because it seems it is a little tricky to find a pair that will work with each other....i guess ausi and clifford intakes will try to share the same space with hooker super comps....but im kinda under the impression that the offenhsr wont....either way...watch what you bump em into as you may need to send them back.....seems like your best bet is to get your dream intake, then have your header custome built around it.
 
my next project is gonna be a 4 door a body sleeper steel wheels roof rack but with a 500/500 stroker 416 small block talk about fun
 
lol...that didnt really help the question at hand...but it does sound fun...minus the four door
 
performance parts
summitracing.com
jegs.com
moparts.com
here @ FABO

chassis stiffening
magnumforce.com
rms.com
 
What motor transmission rear end and gears does it have now? What is your end goal with it. Saying you want to beef up you Dart does not give enough info for people to help you.

But a vague answer for a vague question would be:

Turbo,frame connectors, RMS front and rear suspension,and a pair of fuzzy dice for the rearview mirror. That should be pretty beefy.:newb:
 
well...weather its the 170 or the 225, i would imagin pretty much anything you can do to them could be applied to both. since he wont answer...lets assume its a 225 with the 3sp auto...i like the fuzzy dice idea
 
well...weather its the 170 or the 225, i would imagin pretty much anything you can do to them could be applied to both. since he wont answer...lets assume its a 225 with the 3sp auto...i like the fuzzy dice idea


Could be a 318. Could be a 340/360 or big block that the PO swapped in.Hell could be a japanese swap,or a vw diesel that runs on bio fuel. Its never smart to assume.

Also not gonna be a 170,that motor was dropped in 69.Might be a 198.
 
im kinda in the same boat, i have a 73 dart swinger with the 225 3 spd auto...my grandpa is a drag engine builder, he said to start with exaust(sp?), and that the 2 part headers are best (gives you more room to work around them later...he said then do your intake (offenhauser of course, seems they are the only ones). he said 4 barel is fine but not to really go over 500cfm because youll flood it...he said at the same time you do your intake do a cam, again, if not you're just dumping to much gas in there....now, IMO, MSD is always nice, roller lifters and rockers (if they make em, im not sure), but the rollers would free up a ton of friction and possibly free up (im guessing) 30-40 horse...small things like electric fans cant hurt, take out the A/C (if you have it like me)......on a side note...i've been doing some looking around...when you get a intake, try to fine one that has each passage seperate (the two in the middle are normaly connected to each other) but ive come to understand that by sperating the middle two it help keep the heat down, wich of course is gonna help a little in torque....im not an expert, and im leaving this very open to scruteny, because again, im trying to get the same info as OP


Roller rockers are a waste on a slant,unless you are a serious racer going for max HP with a head built to flow in the .600 lift range. Also they are not worth 30-40 hp even on a high horse app.

The middle intake runners are already separated,by a dividing wall,and heat in the manifold is a good thing.

check out www.slantsix.org and read the articles section,then do some searching on the site before you ask questions.
 
im open to suggestion on how to increase my horsepower and drivetain. and also some good websites to buy parts, especially parts for horsepower and for bumpers and front grill and lights...etc, Ive been searching but i keep falling short. help very much needed and would be greatly appreciated.

Need to know what you have, /6 or V-8? Power parts are easily found for V-8. Plenty of choices for the /6, too. Swap from /6 to V-8 is not real hard. Any of the fan magazines like Mopar Muscle have advertisers that offer speed parts, body parts, and the like. You can also find parts here at FABO in the "For Sale" threads. If you're not sure who you're dealing with, you can ask to see if other FABO members have used your prospective vendor.

I see this is your first post. Welcome to FABO. Hope your experiences here are good ones.
 
as i said, i wasnt sure about all that info in the bottom half, it was just things iv'e read elswhere. also wasnt sure when which engine was avalible, but considering this is in a slant six section...i was guessing he was smart enough to read where he clicked before posting in it. and when i said devided i ment each runner totaly seperate from the other. no dividing wall in a joined runner (thank you for that word "runner", i was racking my brain trying to remember what it was called)

and if heat is good then why do they make such low thermostats, and why would drag cars run with ice on the engine and use "ice boxes" to cool there fuel before it hits carb. everything ive always heard says heat is bad...it expands everything, decreasing the amount of air and fuel achieved in each cylinder. not saying your wrong...thats just what ive heared elswere...id love to understand it better though if you have an explination to the contrary
 
did the 170 really stop in 69...i though that was the other option to my slant six?
 
as i said, i wasnt sure about all that info in the bottom half, it was just things iv'e read elswhere. also wasnt sure when which engine was avalible, but considering this is in a slant six section...i was guessing he was smart enough to read where he clicked before posting in it. and when i said devided i ment each runner totaly seperate from the other. no dividing wall in a joined runner (thank you for that word "runner", i was racking my brain trying to remember what it was called)

and if heat is good then why do they make such low thermostats, and why would drag cars run with ice on the engine and use "ice boxes" to cool there fuel before it hits carb. everything ive always heard says heat is bad...it expands everything, decreasing the amount of air and fuel achieved in each cylinder. not saying your wrong...thats just what ive heared elswere...id love to understand it better though if you have an explination to the contrary

I know you said you weren't sure,that is why I offered the info to correct you.

They make such low thermostats because of the enormous amount of heat generated from a full throttle pass down the 1/4,especially since most race motors are tuned "lean" for the most power,thus causing even more heat.Too much heat is a bad thing,but so is not enough heat.

Icing the intake is about having a cooler denser charge entering the engine for more power. Actually having heat in the manifold/cylinder helps atomize the fuel.

This is especially true with the slant six engine with its un-equal length runners.The 3-4 runners are the shortest and closest to the plenum/carb,and are know to run "rich" while 1-6 run "lean" and 2-5 are almost ideal because of this design. Therefore the heat helps expand and atomize the fuel entering the 3-4 runners,and help combat the fuel puddling that occurs when the motor/manifold are cold.

I dont see the point in separating the 3-4 runners,as I have said before they are separate,all the way to the plenum.Every other runner has an exhaust runner on either side of it,whereas the 3-4 only have the exhaust on the outside of them,and a nice pocket of air between the intake and exhaust manifold under the intake,it could be argued that they are already cooler than the other runners.But the point would be moot since the intake and exhaust are bolted together as an assembly then bolted to the cast iron head,which is a whole lot of heat transfer going on.

Back to runner 1-6,some have found the number 1 intake will run slightly more rich than number 6,because of the fan constantly blowing across it,causing to to be cooler than any of the other runners,once more confirming that heat is subjective;too much heat bad,too little heat bad.

Like I mentioned before check out slantsix.org for tons of info on the slant. To us over there the slant is a kind of sickness,or way of life. You have guys like Doug D.,Dan S.,Charlie S. ...too many to list with years of knowledge pertaining directly to the slant six,and even guys with tons of knowledge of fuel injection,forced induction,and general racing knowledge. You will get sound,factual info over there rather than the "here-say" that you will pick of from random people or self proclaimed "car experts".
 
did the 170 really stop in 69...i though that was the other option to my slant six?

Yes. Then there was the 198 from 1970-74,then that was dropped and the 225 became the only 6 cylinder option until 88 I believe.
 
oh ok that makes sense, now that i think about it...i suppose i should look over there to see if some one has come up with a remedy for that unequal fuel concentration
 
thank you all for ur input..and its a slant-6 225..with the standard automatic tranny...and standard rear-end in it..and what im trying to is make it run atleast respectable time down the strip while also being street legal and pretty much able to drive to work once or twice a week.
 
Im having to replace the transmission and other parts..so i figured i would just turn it into a project now..but once again thank u all for ur input its helped alot.
 
WHOOO score one for assumtions!!!...i agree with that by the way...that huge yellow one at the sart is gorgeouse
 
thank you all for ur input..and its a slant-6 225..with the standard automatic tranny...and standard rear-end in it..and what im trying to is make it run atleast respectable time down the strip while also being street legal and pretty much able to drive to work once or twice a week.

What is respectable to you? 15's?12's? 10's?
 
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